Go to start and needles on dash bounce as if they have a pulse
Had stater relay checked when it wouldn't start and found 40 AMP fuse blown.Repplaced it and truck ran approx 2 weeks. Now it wont start and when I turn the key- no cranking, fuel pump pumps up, radio , windows, etc work.Locked in gear and wont come out.
Towed to garage (3rd time) and was told Fuse box/relay has a short in it.
Called dealer and they say they have never heard of that and they dont even stock a fuse box/ relay.
Could this be the problem? Mechanic hot wired starter relay in box and got her to run but it is jury rigged.
Any help greatly appreciated as these things cost over $475.00 Cdn. Thanks in advance.Mike
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
Re: go to start and needles on dash bounce as if they...
I read your problem.
Is there a few step to diagnostic or try to fix your car.
Follow this simple steps.
Inspect the RALAY " Starter relay # 47. or interchange with other one just for testing.
1- Check the Fuse " IGN E Fuse number 22 " 10amp. on under hood fuse BOX fron Neutro swicth
And power to the power to the Neutro safetly switch.
2-- Check the Fuse " CRANK fuse # 17 10amp. Under hood fuse box. 12v. from Ignition switch
3- check the fuse " IGN A fuse # 34 40 amp. under hodd fuse box. Constant 12v. to relay.
With ignition switch in ON position.
Crank Fuse only when you try to start. If no power 12v. come when trying to start.
REmove the steering column covers. to get axces to the IGNITION SWITCH.
Trying to start check if 12 v on the YELLOW wire exist. if not. Check if there a 12v on the RED wire
If not Inspect FUSE # 34.
But if there a power on the red wire But not ON yellow wire Trying to start.
Just REPLACE THE IGNITION SWITCH. Electrical part.
Check the NEUTRO SAFETLY SWITCH. connector under the car. Repair as need.
CHeck the BACK-UP lights, some times come damaged making a short on the Neutro safetly switch. ...
OK.. I hope this help on your problem.
If you need more information letme know.
I'm a Mechanic and have all the information for repair vehicles.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
I can't tell what you've done? Where is the fuse located, under the hood--interior fuse box? What is the fuse amp rating and what does it control?
If it cranks good but won't start, make sure the battery has a full charge, have a helper crank it, while you check for spark at the spark plugs, if spark everywhere, check fuel injector pulse.
What about your security system?
Sounds more like a key switch or fuse box problem.
The circuits you mentioned would be on separate fuses but could be connected to the key switch. The relays are grounded by the engine computer to be energized.
Often its the igniter, the ignition control module, located, I think, on the firewall driver's side. Did you check for codes by jumping "t" and "e1" on your little diagnostic connector(same location as igniter-lift cover on little box, diagram of pin #'s is on top of cover). You'll have to watch your cel light on dash to record codes. Also check your fuses and relays in the little black box by your battery (efi fuse, main relay, the 30 and (40 or60) amp AM1 &AM2 fuses). Good luck. Oops, also I think there is a fusible link near your batt. but if it cranks over, it wouldn't be the fusible link.
The 40 amp maxi fuse in the underhood junction block (According to the information I have, there is only one 40 amp fuse in there..) goes directly to the ignition switch. From there, it goes to the buss bar in the Instrument Panel Fuse Block where it feeds several smaller fuses. It also feeds the starter relay in the Underhood Fuse and Relay Center.
My biggest concern would be: What caused the fuse to blow in the first place?
If you get nothing else from my preaching, get this:
Fuses don't blow for no reason....ESPECIALLY not a 40-amp Maxi Fuse!
I can't count how many times I have heard people say: "It's JUST a blown fuse." WHAT???
I have been at this for 35 years and I can tell you that blown fuses are reason for major concern in my book. That 40-Amp Maxi Fuse just saved your truck from burning to the ground and you need to find out why!
The only way that fuse is going to blow is if there is a direct short to ground between the Underhood Fuse and Relay Center and the Instrument Panel Fuse Block (The only "component" between these two is the ignition switch.) or if the secondary side of the starter relay circuit is shorted to ground. The secondary side of the starter relay feeds the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid. (at the starter)
I think the first place I would look for the problem would be the circuit between the starter relay and the starter. It is likely to be shorted against the exhaust or engine block. If this is the case, it most likely fried the starter relay in the process. (which is why the fuse no longer blows and the engine no longer starts)
Aftermarket remote starting units are also usually tied into this circuit. If your vehicle has one of these, it could very likely be the original source of your problem.
At any rate, there should be no rest, truck running or not, until the reason for the blown fuse is found. You will most likely get the truck running in the process of locating the reason for the blown fuse.
well the fuse or relay,or the coolant tempurature sensor is not sending the correct temp, to turn on fans. here is how to see if fans are bad. run a wire from battery positive to positive on fan connection. then run a wire from negative on battery to the ground cnnection, if the fans are ok they will turn on. you do not need car on to test fans. check fuse and relays first.
Hello; All late model Accords use an electronic speedometer that uses the pulses generated by the speed sensor(VSS), to determine vehicle speed. This is then transferred to the engine CPU and bounced to the dashboard IC to displayed current speed ratings. First you will need to rule out a blown fuse situation. Check your fuse compartment under the dash or near the foot rest panel on the driver side for a blown fuse. If all fuses are ok, replace the VSS, which is mounted on the transaxle housing.
40 amp, labeled "HTR" 3rd from lrft, above little fuses, .located in fuse box in dash . if its blown, the blower motor may be bad. also ckeck fuse labeled "gauge" upper left corner 10 amp ( that makes the relay work)