Question about 1988 Mazda RX-7

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Mazdarx 7 1988 non turbo

Oil blowing out of front lower engine maybe a hose???????????

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Maybe the front seal is bad

Posted on Sep 12, 2008

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Why is oil blowing out of my 1997 873 Bobcat muffler?


is it fresh oil or blowing out old oil it will take a few to clear out muffler , but after that there's more wrong ,when you pulled off old turbo was it leaking , did you clean out intercooler of all the oil ?

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I need the diagram/schematic of the vacuum tube layout of 2.0L DOHC


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Below is the diagram. I hope this helps.

netvan_94.png

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Apr 14, 2011 | 1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse

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94 - 850 non turbo starts and runs okay but after awhile fule starts leaking around the front of car close to or maybe past the firewall where could this possibly be coming from ?


If I'm not mistaken, right about at firewall is a rubber hose that connects steel fuel line coming from tank to steel line to engine. Check there for your leak.

Mar 03, 2011 | 1994 Volvo 850

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I recently purchase a 2004 XC90 with over 200k miles. When attempting to change the oil (a long story) I noticed that the rubber hose connecting the hard plastic air intake(?) that crosses over the top...


This is the turbo air cooler hose and most of them have some oil in them from the turbo. i would replace the hose and keep an eye on it, the problem may be a worn turbo. the turbo is sucking in oil, the turbo may need replacing but i would nt replace it right now, just replace the hose and keep an eye on the engine oil level, if the turbo is working and the engine is not using oil and you dont see smoke coming from the exhaust system when accelerating then just replace the hose for now, hope this helps.

Feb 27, 2011 | 2005 Volvo XC90

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Have a 1999 eclipse 2.0 L...Need to replace oil pan. Do I have to remove any other parts to get the pan off


2.0L Engine
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Drain the engine oil.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    Engine undercover Front exhaust pipe Lower oil pan bolts and lower pan Cover Upper oil pan bolt and upper pan Baffle plate

    0996b43f8023193a.jpg Fig. Oil pan and related components-2.0L engine

To install:
  1. Clean all gasket surfaces of the cylinder block and the upper and lower oil pan.
  2. Install or connect the following:
    Baffle plate
  3. Apply a 0.16 in. (4mm) bead of sealant to the gasket surfaces of the upper oil pan.
    Upper oil pan onto the cylinder block within 15 minutes after applying sealant. Tighten the bolts as shown in the accompanying figure.

    0996b43f8023192d.jpg Fig. Upper oil pan bolt location and torque sequence-2.0L engine

  4. Apply 0.16 in. (4mm) bead of sealant to the gasket surfaces of the lower oil pan.
    Lower oil pan and tighten the bolts, in the sequence shown, to 88-106 inch lbs. (10-12 Nm)

    0996b43f8023192e.jpg Fig. Lower oil pan bolt tightening sequence-2.0L engine
    Front exhaust pipe Engine undercover Oil drain plug with a new gasket and tighten to 29 ft. lbs. (40 Nm)

    0996b43f8023192f.jpg Fig. Make sure to the install the new drain plug gasket as shown, or leaks will occur

  5. Lower the vehicle and fill the crankcase to the proper level with clean engine oil.
  6. Connect the negative battery cable. Start the engine and check for leaks.
Non-Turbo Engine
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Drain the engine oil into a suitable container.
  4. Once the oil has completely drained, install the plug and tighten to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm).
  5. Remove the front exhaust pipe.
  6. Remove the engine oil dipstick and tube assembly.
  7. Remove the front plate.
  8. Unfasten the oil pan mounting bolts, then remove the oil pan and gasket.

    0996b43f80222121.jpg Fig. Exploded view of the oil pan and related components-1999 2.0L non-turbo engine

To install:
  1. Apply sealant at the point where the engine block meets the oil pump.
  2. Use a new gasket and install the oil pan. Tighten the mounting bolts to 8.9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).
  3. Install the front plate.
  4. Install the front exhaust pipe.
  5. Install the dipstick and tube assembly.
  6. Safely lower the vehicle to the floor.
  7. Refill the crankcase with oil to the proper level.
  8. nnect the negative battery cable.
  9. Start the engine and check for leaks.

Turbo Engine
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Safely raise and support the vehicle.
  3. Remove the front exhaust pipe.
  4. Remove the exhaust pipe and muffler assembly.
  5. Drain the engine oil into a suitable container. Once the oil has drained completely, tighten the plug to 29 ft. lbs. (39 Nm).
  6. Remove the dipstick and tube.
  7. For AWD vehicles, remove the transfer case assembly as follows:
    1. With the propeller shaft still installed, remove the transfer mounting bolt.
    2. Insert a suitable prytool in between the transfer case and transaxle, then remove the transfer case from the center shaft.
    3. Remove the transfer case from the center shaft. Do NOT tilt the transfer assembly to the rear or oil will leak out.
    4. After removing the transfer assembly, insert tool MB991193 or equivalent, to prevent the oil from leaking out. Use a piece of wire to suspend the transfer case from the body.

      0996b43f80222122.jpg
      Fig. View of the transfer case with the tool installed to prevent oil from leaking out-1999 2.0L turbo engines
  8. Remove the bell housing cover.
  9. Disconnect the oil return pipe from the oil pan.
  10. Remove the oil pan mounting bolts. Tap the oil pan seal breaker MB998727 or equivalent between the oil pan and the engine block to break the seal and remove the oil pan.

    0996b43f80222123.jpg Fig. Exploded view of the oil pan and sealant application-1999 2.0L Turbo engine

To install:
  1. Clean the sealing surface on the oil pan and engine block. Apply a continuous bead of sealant MD970389 or equivalent to the oil pan.
  2. Clean the oil pan mounting bolt holes in the oil seal case.
  3. Install the oil pan to the engine block. Tighten the mounting bolts to 5.1 ft. lbs. (6.9 Nm).
  4. Use a new gasket and connect the oil return pipe to the oil pan.
  5. Install the bell housing cover.
  6. If equipped with AWD, install the transfer case assembly.
  7. Install the dipstick and tube assembly.
  8. Install the front exhaust pipe.
  9. Install the exhaust pipe and muffler.
  10. Install a new oil filter.
  11. Safely lower the vehicle to the floor and add five quarts of oil to the crankcase.
  12. Connect the negative battery cable.
  13. Start the engine and check for leaks.

Good luck (remember rated this help).

Mar 06, 2010 | 1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse

1 Answer

Blows oil out front vent tube of daramax


Any time the oil is blowing out of anywhere the engine is NOT breathing
properly. Check the PCV valve Hose It's pluged up , off, broken ,maybe
just needs to be replaced. The engine is bulding up pressure.

Nov 09, 2009 | 2003 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD

1 Answer

Engine oil get less every two weeks in my pajero 4m40


Diesels do lose a little oil out the blow-by tube. If the engine temp. is higher then normal then you will lose more then normal amounts. If you are not leaking it then you are burning it, Possibly worn rings, head-gasket, or oil leak inside turbo. 68 MPH and higher doesn't sound unusual, is the engine still stock?

Jun 03, 2009 | 1995 Mitsubishi Montero

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90 300zx turbo or non turbo? ??


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Apr 17, 2009 | 1990 Nissan 300ZX

1 Answer

I need instructions for replacing the turbo on a Saab 1999 9-5 4 cyl turbo


Hi, I have done this and it is not too bad, but will take you about 4 hours if you are good, and longer if you have not done much mechanics.

The trick is to find a reasonably priced turbo, check ebay. There is a dude on there that just does rebuilt turbos. Very good, got mine for $

I have been reading up on turbo replacement procedure and I have found this list: First, there are a couple of questions that I have about the list:

2 air openings, pretty easy to figure out
2 exhaust openings, pretty easy to figure out
3 round openings in the center, all banjo bolts?
1 round / two bolt opening in the center.
1 Hose fitting off of the waste-gate
1 Hose fitting off of the air side of the turbo.

STEP 1 Open the expansion tank cap to release the system pressure.
STEP 2 Raise the car & Remove the lower front cover under the car
STEP 3 Drain off the coolant & Remove the turbo brackets
STEP 4 Loosen the return fitting and the pipe from the turbo to the block
STEP 5 Loosen the oil pipe between the filter adapter and the turbo
STEP 6 Lower the car to the floor & Remove the bypass valve & Unplug the connector from the control valve
STEP 7 Disconnect the mass air flow sensor connector & Loosen the hoses to the turbo
STEP 8 Remove the crankcase banjo bolt from the intake manifold and unscrew the bolt from the cam cover
STEP 9 Move the pipe and wiring aside & Remove the engine lifting eye
STEP 10 Remove the mass air flow sensor and air hose
STEP 11 Remove the exhaust manifold heat shield by removing the nut and two clips from underneath
STEP 12 Undo the intake manifold clamp at the turbo & remove the intake
STEP 13 Disconnect the hose clip on the hose between the intercooler & turbo & plug it to keep something from falling in it
STEP 14 Loosen the front exhaust system from the turbo & lower the front exhaust system away from the turbo (DO NOT BEND -THE FLEX HOSE)
STEP 15 Remove the oil pipe from the oil filtermag-glass_10x10.gif adapter & grab the copper washers
STEP 16 Loosen the coolant pipe by the turbo & grab the copper washers & loosen the coolant pipe bolt
STEP 17 Remove the coolant return pipe from the cylinder head & pressure sensor bracket. Once again, Grab the copper washers
STEP 18 Undo the coolant return pipe bolt by the turbo
STEP 19 Undo the nuts securing the turbo to the exhaust manifoldmag-glass_10x10.gif. (spray the nuts with WD40)
STEP 20 Install in Reverse


Just did this for the first time. Here are a few hints that may help others.

1) PB BLASTER is your friend. Remove the exhaust top front heat shield and hit exhaust nuts with PB Blaster as soon as you start the job, or night before.

2) Make sure that you have 12mm closed end wrench with AND without ratchet. Also a 1/2 size 12mm socket if you can find / make. These will help.

3) You don't have to remove the oil filtermag-glass_10x10.gif, but there one bolt that it would be nice for. I did not and did manage to get the job done.

4) Take you time. More of finding the right tool combination for each bolt.

5) Two banjo bolts on the turbo were really on there. Needed to use a mini-acetylene torch to eat up.

6) Have extracting sockets and bits ready just in case there are issues getting bolts / nuts off.

Turbo had quite a bit of end-play, but spun fine. Classic symptoms, blue smoke at start up and from time to time when driving. It was also making a bit of noise at idle.

jeffo2 ort11


Also, should get new copper washers. I did not have I have some micro leaks from time to time but nothing bad.

Dec 15, 2008 | 1999 Saab 9-5

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