Question about 1999 BMW 328 Series
First i was loosing power and then she overheated we lookt at the engine and the raditor hose was completely melted, so we changed the upper one and drove here and she overheated again, so we flushed her new thermostat and water and anti freeze, drove it went straight to the red on the temp gage, my husband says he thinks the fan is off. is there a certian way or anything specail you have to do when changing the thermastat that the repair guide doesnt say??? HELP HELP its only been a day and i already miss her.
Unless this is a manual thansmission there is a clutch fan hooked directly to the water pump the electric fan is to cool the condenser for a/c function it sounds like you have a head gasket issue but before you let anyone proceed with a repair like this on you engine bmw recommendes untorquing and the attempt to retourque cylinder head bmw blocks if overheated too extream will not hold and the threads will pull out of the block
Posted on May 14, 2011
The cooling systems of all BMW's need to be bled free of all air....There is a plastic bleeding nipple adjacent to the expansion tank....Open the cabin heat controls inside the car, and set them to maximum hot....Open the bleed screw and fill forty percent coolant (anti freeze) and top up with water delivered from a hose pipe....Seal the filler with a plug of some sort or modify a cap for the job...You should use only low pressure water delivery, which should allow all the bubbles to be expelled from the cooling system....
If the problem persists.....Lack of power, have the cylinder head checked.....I'm suspecting that the head has warped and that the gasket is burned.....
The reason for that to have happened would be the failure of the radiator hose or the failure of the thermostat, (which came first, the chicken or the egg) either of those could cause failure of the water pump....
The water pumps on the BMW have a plastic impeller, which have a tendency to detach from the pump shaft, when subjected to extra high temperatures....I think that's what you'll find, when the pump is removed.....
The loss of power will be the most serious problem....If it persists, take the vehicle to a good repair shop and ask them to carry out these simple tests....The first three you can do yourself, if you would like to...
1) Pull out the engine oil dip stick and check for contamination of engine oil with coolant....(it becomes a light grey colour, unlike the usual colour of oil).....
2) Check for oil deposits inside the radiator and then, for too much pressure in the cooling system. The engine must be cold. Remove the radiator cap and check to see if the coolant is pumped out....It should not be...
3) Check to see if you have coolant coming from the exhaust pipe.
4) At your service shop.....Get them to carry out a cooling system pressure and leakage test....Repair where necessary
5) Your service center should then carry out a cylinder compression test.....If the variance between the cylinders exceeds the specifications, ask them to quote you on the required work.....Let me know and I'll try to advice.
The thermostat is an engine component, which operates when heated or cooled by the coolant of the engine, which of coarse radiates the heat away from the engine while it operates....The fan of your vehicle could be electrically operated.....therefore it will use a temperature operated switch, or it may have a viscous coupled fan. In the case of the latter, it operates with ambient temperature.
Please let me know if you're intending to do this job yourself, or if you only wanted to be made aware of the possible faults. If you do indeed want to do this job, I shall be happy to help you with more advise
Posted on Sep 15, 2008
First ... test the fan.... if you are able ... hook it up to 12 volts directly (check that is the correct voltage for the fan)... once you determine the fan works.... there is a sensor that when it reaches a certain termperature will turn on the fan. finally make sure the thermostat is installed correctly. I believe the part with the copper end that heats up and causes the thermostat to open is installed toward the motor. other experts may be able to correct me on that if i'm wrong.
When you have finished the repair and add the antifreeze.... run the motor with the radiator cap off while you add fluid and keep adding antifreeze untill all the air appears to be out and the thermostat has opened.. you will be able to tell that by the water starts to circulate and you will see that... being careful of moving parts on the motor you may want to squeeze the upper radiator hose a few times to assist the air to leave the system.
Run it for abit with the radiator cap on then recheck the level of the antifreeze. but allow the motor to cool before removing the cap. if your motor also has an overflow tank top that up to the indicated line on that tank as well.
When you add antifreeze it is a 50-50 mix... half water half antifreeze.... straight antifreeze basically turns to gel.
Also if you do not see the water circulating in the radiator you may wish to consider that the water pump has failed altho that is usually indicated by some fluid leakage from the front bearing on the pump. I hope this is a clear enough explanation... if not feel free to ask further questions...
Posted on Sep 15, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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