Question about 1999 Saturn SL

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High idle on my 1999 Saturn SL1. The mechanical screw on the idle cam is at its minimum. The car idles at 13-1500 rpms .

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  • gnvtele Oct 08, 2008

    have a 98 satun sl1 and have a idle problem only when the weather starts to get cold idles around 1500 to 2000 rpms come to a stop sign and idle goes to norm start going and idle goes back to 1500 to 2000 range

  • Anonymous Nov 30, 2008

    same

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Clean the Idle Air Control Valve. It's on the throttle body below the Throttle Position Sensor. Worked for me! Good luck.

Posted on Oct 15, 2009

  • gwww Oct 16, 2009

    Here's a better explanation: The IACV is on the back side of the throttle body (nearest to the firewall), below the throttle position sensor (the TPS is in-line with the butterfly valve shaft), and is held on by two star screws and has a four-pin electrical connector. It's easy to remove, clean with a toothbrush and choke cleaner and reinstall. It rarely goes bad and needs to be replaced, just needs a regular cleaning (every 100,000 miles or when needed). Make sure you also clean the hole it came out of, otherwise it won't seat properly (use a mirror). The IACV is like a giant needle valve. Good luck! Twenty-five cents worth of spray cleaner sure beats the hundreds of dollars worth of parts and tools that I spent and still didn't fix the problem. I'm a lot smarter now!

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A vacuum leak would appear at all times. If this happens when the weather gets cold, you should be looking at your thermostat and/or temp. sensor. I had to replace both on my car, which solved the high idle problem. First, the temp would take FOREVER to come up, which was caused by a bad sensor. Second, it'd never go above 1/4, which was due to a bad thermostat. The stock thermostats in these cars have an unnecessary rubber gasket that goes bad on the little valve that opens and closes. When it cracks and falls off, it makes for holes where the coolant can leak past. Aftermarket thermostats do not have this unnecessary gasket. Also, replacement thermostats come pre-mounted in a new housing, so there's no need to remove the old thermostat from its housing (difficult--press down on STRONG spring and turn..somewhat dangerous, too).
To diagnose your car, get a meat thermometer. Drive around for at least 15 minutes, if not longer (longer is better). Park car with engine running. Place meat thermometer in overflow tank. Dash gauge should be reading between 1/4 and 1/2, and meat thermometer should read at or above 180 degrees. If thermometer is above 180, but dash gauge doesn't go above 1/4, then sensor is bad. If meat thermometer is below 180 degrees, then thermostat is bad. Also, if dash gauge takes a really long time to come up (longer than 10 minutes), then sensor is bad. Meat thermometer should read above 180 degrees and dash gauge should read between 1/4 and 1/2. Idle won't come down completely until the gauge registers somewhere between 1/4 and 1/2. If the gauge never gets above 1/4, idle will stay quite high.

Posted on Dec 10, 2008

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Sounds like you have a vacume leak

Posted on Sep 11, 2008

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