I've observed that my engine is getting heated up pretty quick, just after driving 2 miles. I tried pouring water/coolant in the over-flow tank (looks good for 1-2 days, then same problem again), changed engine oil very recently, but still same problem. Dont see any engine oil leakage . Initially, thought it might be because of AC, but even without AC I find this problem. I tried pouring water in radiator also, but no use.
Its 113K driven '94 nissan maxima. Please help me..
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Re: Engine heating up
Is the radiator or overfill jug loosing water over time? Even a small amount under the minimum can cause quicker heatups. Also, start the car and check your hoses. I've seen hoses collapse and cause problems similar to that.
The ambient temperature could also be a factor. When you're cooling the water and trying to keep it below 212; a breeze of 40 degree air is a lot better for the cooling then 90 degree air.
One other thing as well. Being as it is an older car, you may want to try blowing our the radiator. Using an air compressor with an air nozzle. Just blow air through the back (in the engine compartment) through the radiator and out the front. This will clean out the radiator from bugs, dirt, and debris.
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Have you already confirmed that the coolant overflow tank has at least the minimum coolant in it? Does the water level in the coolant overflow get higher when the engine is heated up than when it was first started? At what speed does this happen? Idling only, or also when driving 35+ miles an hour. A quick test - when the engine is warmed up, touch the radiator. If it is still cool, the problem is likely the thermostat - it probably isn't opening when the engine gets hot.
Replace the engine as the oil will be in the internals of the coolant system and will be very hard to get out. Oil and water do not mix and the oil getting around the cooling areas of the cylinders and head would prevent the heat transfer to the water as oil doesn't transfer heat very well
Yes, the temperature gauge should normally stop in the middle, between the cold and hot points on the gauge. When the engine is cold the thermostat will be closed and will keep recirculating the coolant in the engine block until it warms up sufficiently. Then the temperature of the warm coolant will cause the thermostat to open the channel to the radiator to get rid of excess heat, which should stop the coolant from over heating. So the effect of the thermostat keeps the coolant at a fairly stable temperature. When the coolant runs low, it can't transfer enough heat to the radiator and the coolant and engine then over heats. Watch for radiator leaks under your car after you have been driving it. If the coolant goes low again fairly quickly you could have a leak in a hose or the radiator itself.
Check to see if the water is curculating. either by looking in the resivoir to see if water is coming out the return hose or by looking in the radiator, depending on your vehicle. If its circulating its not the water pump. If the car over heated majorly it could have cracked a head which would cause it to continue to over heat but first you have to find out what caused the over heating to begin with. Also you have to be careful what products you pour into your coolant system. most products that say they fix problems tend to cause problems in the long run. Some "fix it" products can clump up and clog small holes within the engine and in turn over heat it because the coolant can't flow properly. See if its circulating and we can go from there.
On a side note, if it is circulating, rev the engine to make sure it still circulates at higher rpm's. The water pump went out on my truck but would circulate when idling but not reving.
1 If engine overheating has occurred the coolant level will naturally be low due to expansion of the coolant from the extreme heat of the engine. This heat expansion forces coolant out of the radiator and coolant reservoir. To test for an engine coolant leak move the car to a dry smooth surface and allow the engine to cool. Remove the radiator cap and carefully (do not spill) add water until full, then re-install cap. Start engine and allow to run for about three to five minutes (do not allow to overheat) while the engine is running inspect the ground below the engine, if an engine coolant leak is present observe the location of the coolant drops, this will help determine where to start looking for the coolant leak (shut the engine off before inspecting). If no coolant is observed two additional checks are needed for a complete test. With the engine off remove the engine oil fill cap and turn it over, if a milky oil condensation is present the engine may have a failed cylinder head or intake manifold gasket allowing coolant to leak internally. To inspect engine gaskets disassembly is required. Next, the car heater core must be inspected; the quickest way to check the heater core condition without removal the heater core is to inspect the passenger's side foot well compartment carpet for the presences of coolant. If coolant is present the heater core has failed and must be replaced or repaired. After necessary repairs have been made refill the cooling system with manufacturers recommended engine coolant and recheck operation. 2 Inspect Engine Cooling Fan Clutch or Electric Fan Operation 3. check water pump
when the engine is cold, remove the coolant cap, start the car , put the heater on high and let it warm up (turn on the headlights to load the engine, speeds the process)-after about 10 minutes of idling, you should see the coolant start to move rather quickly, and if it has air in the system (like I think it does) it will 'drop' so that you might not see anything in the tank at all-fill it to the top, and replace the cap, drive it for a few miles observing the temp gauge.
You might check the coolant level after the engine cools,if it's low add 50/50 mixture of coolant and water. Keep an eye on the level to see if it happens again. You might have a small leak in the system. Good luck
Just because it was not hot to the touch, does not mean it is not a coolant loss problem----if the coolant is so low, there may not be enough to make the radiator hot (though usually the steam in the system will). ...a stuck thermostat can also let the engine overheat while the radiator remains cool (the fluid only circulates within the engine and is stopped from getting to the radiator. ...likewise a hose could have burst below and let the coolant out, over heating the engine, and the steam going out the ruptured/popped off hose; would look underneath.. ...when cool, check the level in the radiator (likely empty), ...and less than a mile away, may not have ever heated the radiator, though usually only a mile to heat up the coolant ...of course there is always sabotage ...and water pump failure, (so no water circulated) causing overheating and no radiator heat, and possibly enough pressure to blow off a hose, but usually the radiator cap relief spring would allow pressure to escape (and that steam would heat up the radiator on the way---but if only steam in the radiator, it would cool off quickly after venting, because no more water in the radiator to hold the heat. all depending on climate,temp and further details , symptoms.. hope helps..
You need to replace the thermostat in the radiator, they are very inexpensive and most times you can replace it yourself, if that doesn't help, drain the radiator and buy a drain kit and radiator cleaner, it will remove rust corrosions and anything else blocking up the flow, replace fluids and check to see if it runs properly, worst case senario is that your water pump needs to be replace cause Nissans are notorious or I should say Older models are and water pump seems to be the thing that goes out before anything else