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disconnect the horn or horns, operate the horn and see if the fuse still blows. if the fuse still blows then there is most likely a short in the wiring. relays rarely cause shorts. if the fuse doesnt blow with the horn disconnected, reconnect the horn and operate the horn again, if the fuse blows you have a shorted horn.
OK, try to use a test light and connect the horn lead to ground to see if there is current, and to see if it sounds. If it does, then the wiring is fine to the horn itself. The relay may click, but are the contacts ok? Maybe swap out the relay for a new one.
I'm assuming that when you press on your horn pad the horn isn't working. So you are trying to figure out if it is the horn or something else. Well, either you can test for power at the harness that connects to the horn as the horn pad is pressed by someone else. If you get power then the horn is bad. Or you can test the horn directly by running a power wire to the terminal that connects to the Y/LG (Yellow wire with a thin light green strip) and connect the other terminal to a ground. If the horn sounds then the horn is good. If the horn is working, I would check the horns relay. Next I check the wiring and if it appears to be intact I would change the pad itself. I am forgetting the main thing. Check the fuse first, before you do anything.
look under the dash at the fuse panel and locate the relay for the horn... replace it. quick way to tell which one it is is put your finger on each relay as you press the horn... the one that you can feel clicking is the one to replace.