Can you maybe tell me what the tork settings should be on the top Plz....
The hole thing was, the 3 rd piston did not work so it ran on 3 pistons.
The top gasket needs replacing for theres water in the oil...
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Re: Renault 5 GTL
How much mechanical ability do you have? Replacing the head gasket on a 5 is not an easy job, and if you have water in the oil, you prob have compromised the main & rod bearings. Water & oil on the bearings makes them wear out rapidly. Plus, if you take the head off (don't pull it UP, leave a corner bolt in loose and PIVOT the head on the dowell pin, that way you will not pull up the liners), if you don't, you will unseat the piston liner seals, then you have a whole new problem to deal with. If you really want to do this, you need to remove the cyl head, and then take it to a machine shop to check the straightness of the head mating surface, and possibly the block. Then hope that the liner seals are not compromised when you put it all back together...
Overheating Renault engines is unfortunatly quite expensive.
Sorry, I do not have the torques specs.
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The Renault 9 GTL is a 4 door hatchback style motor vehicle with a front mounted engine driving through the front wheels.
Powering the Renault 9 GTL is an overhead valve, 1.4 litre naturally aspirated 4 cylinder motor, with 2 valves per cylinder that provides power and torque figures of 60 bhp (61 PS/45 kW) at 5250 rpm and 100 N·m (74 lb·ft/10.2 kgm) at 3000 rpm respectively.
The engine supplies its power through to the wheels via a 4 speed manual transmission.
Quoted weight at the kerb is 855 kg.
Its maximum speed claimed is 153 km/h, which is 95 mph.
0 compression is burnt or bent valves. Could be a hole in the top of the piston also. If you have low compression, put a little oil in the spark plug hole and recheck. If the pressure stays the same, valves, it if goes up, rings on the pistons are worn out. Just a note, If you have 200k+ miles on it, replace the engine, a head job is not worth the time or money.
Take out #1 plug if possible. put straw or something similar in plug hole on top of piston, put a wrench on crankshaft pulley nut and rotate engine. when piston gets to the top it should be on tdc. and rotor pointing to #1 wire on distributor cap. replace plug and adjust dist, if piston is on top, and dist, is off. pull dist so the rotor button points to #1. GOD-bless! OR YOU CAN ALSO ALIGN THE TDC MARK ON CRANKSHAFT DAMPER.
Hi Oulmide, Make sure of the correct setting of the valve and crankshaft timing match marks. Inspect both sensors for correct operation (crank and cam shaft sensors) as it may be that either has been damaged during the work carried out. It is also very possible that the anti theft system has engaged, especially as the battery will have been disconnected. Regards John
Diesel or petrol? if diesel try some good fuel system cleaner before the service so any dirt or moisture is gone before new filters fitted!! Petrol use good petrol BP ESSO TEXACO they have the best additives which protect injectors pistons every thing you need to keep good. My s4 only ran properly on these fuels.
Remove the thermostat, put it all back together, add coolant that you have lost, bleed out the air & see if the problem goes away. If the thermostat is seized closed, the radiator will be cold when the engine is overheating.
Hi trini steve,
What I'm going to do is tell you how to work it out for your self....If I'm right you're someone who wants to do a lot of work on your own and maybe other folks cars too....We'll go at this from this direction and it'll be a lot more fulfilling for you...I think....
....First thing is to see things as they are and not just as things....The rubbers you're talking about are seals....the brake system in your car works like this....
....You fill up the container that feeds brake fluid to the master cylinder....It's the brake fluid that does all the work....When you press on the brake pedal, you push a rod that's joined onto the upper end of the brake pedal lever....The rod is in two halves in most modern cars...,One part operates the servo unit....
....which we wont go into, in this answer....
....and then it continues as if it's just one rod, and pushes on the pistons in the master cylinder....The pistons are fitted with the seals (the rubbers) and you'll notice that they are smaller one surface than the other....The seals will have the larger surface faced towards the direction of travel....
....On top and going all the way through from the reviour on top of the master cylinder housing, there are holes where the brake fluid feeds into the cylinder....As you push on the pedal, what you're doing is pushing the brake fluid along the pipes and forcing it into the wheel cylinders....As it goes there it fills up the chamber and forces the pistons outwards....The disc brake pistons are set in such a way as to squeeze the disc...'and the drums brakes push the pistons out against the drums....
....Study the master cylinder and lay the pistons alongside the cylinder....The one that has the conical spring at it's base is the one that fits into the cylinder first....The other spring assembles onto the primary unit....The seals fit on so that they press the fluid forward out of the outlet at the end of the cylinder and on the second cylinder, through the hole half way along....The remaining seal fits in the reverse direction onto the piston, being the seal controlling the return of fluid when you release the pedal....This is to allow the pressure to release from the wheel cylinders, otherwise the brakes would lock up....Lets see how you get on with this and let me know...