I have tuarus 1998 automatic,
my A/C compressor clutch is not engaging, I’ve checked the electrical parts and they seem fine. The diode + Fuse + RELAY are good. I have charged the system with Freon gas before one day when the problem occurred and the A/C was working good. The pressure is right and there are no leaks in the system. Please help me with my clutch poblem
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Re: A/C Clutch not engaging on my Tuarus 1998
YOU CHECKED ALLOT BUT YOU DID NOT MENTION THE AC COMPRESSOR CYCLING SWITCH, DID YOU TEST IT? DOES THE COMPRESSOR RUN IF YOU JUMP IT, HAVE U CHECKED TO SEE IF THE COMPRESSOR TERMINAL HAS 12 VOLTS AND GROUND WHEN TURNED ON? THE CYCLING SWITCH AND THE COMPRESSOR CLUTCH ARE ALMOST ALWAYS THE PROBLEM WHEN THE SYSTEM IS CHARGED BUT THE COMPRESSOR DOES NOT RUN.
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If you turn the control on the dash to off and the compressor is still running, the relay is stuck or the clutch has failed to release. You should be able to unplug the compressor clutch and stop it too.
is it full of freon? if so it could be that you just need to change the magnetic clutch which is a lot simpler job and cheaper too. get a book first so you have referance pull the belt off pull the nut in the center of the ac compressor make shure that you know what the clearance is betwean the clutch and the compressor it has shims and is imperative that the clearance is right you will need measurment tools feeler gages work best but befor you do any of this you need to make sure there is power and ground going to the two wire conector going to the clutch it wont get power till you turn the ac on or the computer tells it to run for the interior eco system so a magnetic cluch will not turn on if there is no signal resulting in the compressor not terning making the ac not work but its fairly simple to do and 900 is a dicent price at a shop but they would probably charge you for the whole compressor and charging the system and it was only a cluch if there is freon and the compressor isnt siezed and theres signal and ground change the clutch
If all you get is hot air there are several possibilities. The compressor is driven by the serpentine belt and is engaged and disengaged by an electric clutch mounted on the compressor drive pulley. With the engine running, have an assistant turn on the AC while you observe the AC compressor clutch. If the clutch engages, you can be reasonably sure that the system has freon, and the electric circuit is OK. If the clutch doesn't engage, which is the most likely situation, either you are low on freon, the AC clutch relay is inop, or AC compressor fuse is open (blown). A search of Google images will give you the location of the AC relay. You can pull out the relay, carefully remove the cover, reinsert the relay, and engage the compressor clutch by manually closing the relay contacts. Warning: do this only for a second or two in order to see the clutch engage. If the clutch does engage, then you are probably low on freon. There is a safety switch that prevents the clutch from operating if there is not enough freon in the system. Hopefully, this is the case. Go to Walmart and get two cans of r-134 and the inexpensive kit, and following their instructions, charge your system. If this is not the problem, you'll need a set of AC gauges and the skill to use them. Hope this helps. Dano
Compressor uses a clutch that is activated electrically by a relay. When you turn on the A/C, you should hear the clutch engage and pull power from the engine. If the clutch is not engaging, there may be several reasons:
HVAC switch failure
compressor clutch failure
low refrigerant level
There is a sensor that checks the system return pressure and will not allow the clutch to engage if the refrigerant level is too low.
the clutch on the air compressor coil is proably burnt out. disconnect electrical plug at end of air compressor and supply current direct from battery to see if clutch engages, if it does not, change thecoil clutch switch.
The clutch itself is the problem (and much cheaper)--replace only the clutch. You might check with a local wrecking yard for such a part. If the compressor was the problem, when the clutch engaged, the drive belt would either break or be thrown off.
I am the original owner of a 1998 Ford Escort SE wagon. The summer of 2008 I had problems with my A/C system - the first A/C problem on this vehicle. Be careful that you do not over-charge your R134-A system.
1. Check that the A/C Compressor Clutch engages and drives the compressor properly (via the
serpentine drive belt and proper engine idling speed, A/C switched "on" etc.). If the A/C
compressor clutch doesn't engage and drive the compressor you will not be able to charge the
system to the correct refrigerant capacity and operating pressures.
2. You should be familiar with and have the proper tools to test & troubleshoot your auto's A/C
system. Test gauge(s), hose & connector's will be needed.
If the A/C compressor clutch does not engage the compressor, then you will need to troubleshoot the electrical system and components related to your auto's A/C system. This can be time consuming and requires more skill and information (accurate electrical schematics, etc.).
1. A/C clutch didn't energize and engage.
2. System slightly low on R134-A, about a 7 oz. charge was needed after all was taken care of.
1. Electrical problem in the electronic controls for the A/C system. The "Contant Contol Relay
Module" (Ford part no. 3S4Z-12B577-BA, RELAY) had to be replaced. Sometimes Ford calls
this "black box" unit an "Integrated Control Relay Module". The location of this "black box" on my vehicle is under the engine intake air filter housing - replacement cost (new) is about $230;
(used) about $35.
2. Charged the required amount of R134-A into the system via the proper test gauge and related
Please note: I have experience and training in mechanical (including refrigeration systems) and electrical systems.