I've figured out my radiator is bad and am replacing it. I've got everything I can think loosened and out of the way, but I can't seem to get it out. The only thing I can think of that I haven't removed is the A/C condenser. Do those bolts need to come off the support for the radiator to be free to come out? Also, I didn't remove the fan. My dad is having a fit and says that's it, but I don't see any clearance issues with the fan/shroud on there. Any suggestions?
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Re: 2006 ford explorer radiator
You have to remove the fan shroud first then unbolt the a/c condesor from the radiator, be careful not to bend the fins on either the condensor or radiator. did you remove the cooler lines for the transmission? In your model you might also have an extra trans oil cooler thsat could be bolted with a bracket. good luck please rate this
Take it to the dealer, certain vin numbers had faulty radiators installed from the factory. The seams of the radiator leak when the suv is first started and after it is turned off and cooled down. The dealer replaced mine but there was no delivery date available on the new radiator so I had to contact Ford directly. Call the roadside number and go to the prompt for machanical problems, thats what I did.
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Did the engine overheat before the water pump was replaced? If so, you may have a warped cylinder head and/or blown head gasket.
Was the radiator full of rusty-colored liquid before you flushed it? If so, your radiator is probably restricted with rust deposits in the cooling tubes. Flushing WILL NOT get this stuff out. The radiator MUST be replaced if this is the case. Your heater core is probably not in real good shape either, so you should be expecting some heating problems this winter.
If the above is not the correct answer, then you should check to make sure the temperature gauge is not "LYING" to you. This could be caused by a defective gauge, a bad temperature sending unit, or faulty wiring.
The way to check this is with a scan tool that can read engine data and an infrared thermometer. While reading the coolant temperature data from the computer, check the cylinder head temperature with the infrared thermomometer. The readings you get should be within 5 degrees (F) of each other. If the computer data does not match the thermometer within the 5 degrees, then the sending unit for the computer should be replaced.
Then look at the gauge to see if the gauge reading is appropriate to the temperature readings that you took. Normal operating temperature is between 190 and 230 degrees. This should place the gauge at slightly to the right of center to about 5/8thsof the way to HOT. If the readings you took are OK and the gauge is reading higher than this, then you should try replacing the temperature sending unit for the gauge and see if that fixes the problem.
Please note that there are TWO temp sending units: One for the gauge and one for the computer.
You need to evacuate a/c system, drain radiator, remove fan and fan shrout, disconnect both a/c line's going to a/c condensor, remove upper and lower coolant hoses, you'll well need a oil cooler line disconnect tool ( napa has it part # 775-9086 ) remove both upper bolt's that screw on to radiator support, remove radiator and condensor as one, remove both 10mm bolt's that screw into radiator, remove both side radiator bracket's install both bracket's on new radiator, and reinstall new radiator, you will need to evacuate a/c system and recharge. Hope this was helpful.
Who determined that the water pump and radiator needed to be replaced? If it was the dealer or an independent garage, bring it back and tell them they guessed wrong. You paid to have the problem fixed and they need to stand behind their work.
This is a problem that's hard to diagnose without being able to check a lot of items and ask questions, but the obvious things to look for if you have a new radiator and water pump (and hopefully a new thermostat) is for air in the cooling system which keeps the coolant from circulating. Also check to see that the cooling fan(s) are operating properly.
after disconnecting the three hoses and the 2 transmition lines from the radiator there should be two bolts holding the top bracket on and the same for the bottom. ( note that you will more than likely have to take the clutch fan off in order to pull the radiator out, and you will have to remove the cover under the radiation on the bottom on the explorer to get to the bottom bracked bolts.)