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check terminals on the ECM
the circuit is when the coolant temp sensor ( not the gauge sender) reaches a predetermined setting , power is supplied to the ECM which in turn activates the fan relay and switches on the fan
there are normally 2 fuses in the circuit
the gauge sender is normally a single wire unit and the sensor unit has 4 wires to it
There are relays for both fans under the hood. There is also a fuse box under the hood, and a fuse box under the steering wheel to the right side. The fans are controlled by a temperature switch located on the radiator as well. Check all of these items. The box with the realys says "fan relays" on the cover. THe main fuse box under the hood is also labeled. Everything is labled as to what it is. If fuses and relays are okay, check that temp switch. if the fans do not realize that the car is hot, then they will never turn on.
If the fans work when hooked up directly. this indicates that the fan motors are okay. The next step is to check if the coolant temperature sensor (usually located near the thermostat housing) to see if it sending a signal to the relay when the engine temperature goes above normal. This part is inexpensive and easily replaced; throw one in if you still have the original. A second sensor (or switch) may need to be checked; this is the radiator fan switch. These two usually work as a "team" in managing engine temperatures; one switch tells the computer and the instrument gauge what temperature your engine is operating in, while the other responds by sending a signal to the radiator fan relay to "kick on" the fan.
Lastly, the radiator fan relay itself may have burned out. I usually try to switch out identical relays to determine if this is the problem.
Check all fuses first. if the fuses are okay, disconnect the engine cooling fan connector and using jumper wires, connect the fan motor directly to the battery and ground. If the fan still doesn't work, replace it. If the fan does work, its relay may be faulty. Check in the engine compartment fuse box for the cooling fan relays. Try switching the cooling fan relays and see if the engine fan comes on and the a/c condensor fan stops working. If so, the engine cooling fan relay is faulty. If the engine fan still doesn't come on with a good relay, then check the engine temperature switch located at the passenger end of the front cylinder head. It is supposed to switch (have continuity) when the engine temperature reaches 205 deg F. You can remove the switch and put it in a pot of close to boiling water (212 deg F). If it doesn't have continuity at that temperature, it is defective.
Check these parts...........
First check the TEMPERATURE/RADiATOR FAN SWiTCH, it is connected on ur RADiATOR, w/ 2 wires connected to it, at certain temperature the switch turns ON ur FAN MOTOR, by disconnecting it and JUMP/SHORT the 2 wires FAN MOTOR should run, even when u just turn on the ignition!
If the FaN runs, u got temp switch prob and needs to replace, If the fan didn't run when u shorted the wire in the switch.
Check the RELAY, located in the ENGiNE FUSE box, pull out the relay and replace it w/ another relay, while ur 2 wires in the temp switch is on and ur ignition is in the ON position, when the relay clicks and the fan runs, u have a GOOD relay, if not u have to replace the RELAY!
Hope that explains everything!
IF CAR OVERHEATING AT STANDSTILL OR IDLING IN A LONG TRAFFIC LINE.COOLANT FAN NOT TURNING ON.MORE LIKELY COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR NOT WORKING.USE A SCANNER TO CHECK COOLANT TEMPERATURE WHEN ENGINE HOT.IF TEMPERATURE READ LOW COOLANT TEMP.SENSOR BAD.IF SENSOR OKAY.CHECK COOLANT FAN FUSE AND RELAY.ALSO HOTWIRE FAN TO SEE IF FAN MOTOR WORKING.IF NO REPLACE FAN MOTOR.IF FAN MOTOR GOOD FUSE AND RELAY COOLANT FAN MOTOR WIRE CONNECTOR IS DAMAGED OR HAS BROKEN WIRE.