Question about 1996 Ford Windstar

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Bleeding brake Thanks for the info on the brake line. I completed the line replacement, however I'm having problem with air in the line, do I let the motor run when bleeding the brakes? P.S. Is speed bleeder good to use in place of the standard bleeder that comes with the vehicle

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Yes, you can use speed bleeder, but my concern is (I haven't used the product, but it does sound great) you have to remove the original bleeders to install these. Worst case scenario is breaking a bleeder off (which you can do just by attempting to loosen it). In my opinion, it's still best to have 2 people do it, one to pump the brakes (and YES the car should be running) and the other to bleed the brakes. If you use speed bleeder, you still need someone to watch to see when all the air is out, and only fluid is flowing. So, nice to have the speed bleeders, but if you didn't buy them yet, save the money. When will you have to bleed the brakes again? Probably not for a VERY long time, if ever. Spray the bleeders w/ some penetrating oil, wd-40, or similar type lubricant so they won't break off. If you can let it sit overnight, spraying several times, that should help. Let me know your progress! countrycurt0 If you are working inside, leave garage doors open because of exhaust fumes.

Posted on Sep 09, 2008

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Can you bleed the brakes system from the top of the brake line


Can you bleed the brakes system from the top of the brake line Rick, No! I will post links to proper bleeding procedures, if you can not do it this way, take it in to a qualified shop. Some vehicles need to use a scan tool during the bleeding process to cycle the pump and valves.
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1990 jeep wrangler bleeding breaks


Hi there:
I suggest to check this procedure, when the hydraulic brake system must be bled whenever a fluid line has been disconnected because air gets into the system.

A leak in the system may sometimes be indicated by a spongy brake pedal. Air trapped in the system is compressible and does not permit the pressure applied to the brake pedal to be transmitted solidly through the brakes. The system must be absolutely free from air at all times. If the master cylinder has been overhauled or a new cylinder has been installed, bleed the cylinder on a bench before installation. When bleeding brakes, bleed at the wheel most distant from the master cylinder first, the next most distant second, and so on. During the bleeding operation the master cylinder must be kept at least 3 / 4 full of brake fluid.


The ABS bleeding procedure is different from the conventional method. It consists of the following three steps:
Step 1: Conventional manual brake bleed.
Step 2: Bleeding the system using the DRB scan tool.
Step 3: An additional conventional manual brake bleed.

The recommended ABS bleeding procedure is as follows:
  1. To bleed the brakes, first carefully clean all dirt from around the master cylinder filler cap. Remove the filler cap and fill the master cylinder with DOT 3 brake fluid to the lower edge of the filler neck.
  2. Bleed the master cylinder first. Have a helper operate the brake pedal while bleeding each master cylinder fluid outlet line. Do not allow the master cylinder to to run out of fluid,as this will allow additional air to be drawn into the cylinder.
  3. Bleed the brake system in the following sequence:
    1. Master cylinder
    2. HCU valve body (at fluid lines)
    3. Right rear wheel
    4. Left rear wheel
    5. Right front wheel
    6. Left front wheel
  4. Clean off the bleeder connections at all four wheel cylinders. Attach the bleeder hose to the right rear wheel cylinder bleeder screw and place the end of the tube in a glass jar, submerged in brake fluid.
  5. Open the bleeder valve 1/2 - 3/4 of a turn.
  6. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly and allow it to return. Continue this pumping action to force any air out of the system. When bubbles cease to appear at the end of the bleeder hose, close the bleeder valve and remove the hose.
  7. Check the level of fluid in the master cylinder reservoir and replenish as necessary.
  8. After the bleeding operation at each wheel cylinder has been completed, fill the master cylinder reservoir and replace the filler plug.

Do not reuse the fluid which has been removed from the lines through the bleeding process because it contains air bubbles and dirt.


  1. Perform the "Bleed Brake'' procedure with the DRB II scan tool. This procedure is described in the DRB II software information and diagnostic guide.
    1. Attach the DRB II scan tool to the diagnostic connector.
    2. Run the Bleed Brake procedure as described in the DRB II tester guide.
  2. Repeat the conventional bleeding procedure as previously outlined.
  3. Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the proper level.
  4. Check the brake operation.


Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

Replaced front baring now brakes dont work properly


if you removed the brake caliper completly then it sounds like there is still air in the lines.takes alot of bleeding to get it out if caliper was dry....hope this helps.....would try bleeding somemore....good luck...

Aug 13, 2012 | 1997 Chevrolet C/K 3500

1 Answer

Rear caliper on 2005 Ford F150 not releasing, replaced both rear calipers, now pedal goes to the floor - no brakes at all. What can/should i do?


Sounds like it still has some air in the system or a bad master cylinder. First try bleeding all air, there is definitely some air left in the lines and this is most probably causing the problem. Bled the lines at the bleeder screws on the calipers. ---------- There is air left in the brake line.Any time the brake system is opened to replace brake lines, caliper, pads etc etc.Mostly the air enters the system, and that air has to be completely bleed.Otherwise the same symptoms , what you are getting will be noticed.-------- Brakes can be bled manually, with a power bleeder, injector tool or vacuum bleeder.IIt does not make any difference which method you use as long as all the lines and components are flushed with enough fluid to remove any trapped air bubbles or air pockets.----
The most common bleeding procedure is to bleed the brake furthest from the master cylinder first, then bleed the other brake that shares the same hydraulic circuit (which may be the other rear brake on a rear-wheel drive car or truck, or the opposite front brake on a front-wheel drive car or minivan). After these have been bled, you then bleed the other brake circuit starting with the furthest brake from the master cylinder.--------- When the complete air is bleed from the line, the brake should be firm when car is on.In your case brake brake pedal is loose and goes almost to the floor when car is ON.This is due to Air in the line.Get the complete air bleed from brake line.------- This will help.Thanks.Helpmech

Sep 07, 2011 | 1998 Ford F150 Regular Cab

1 Answer

Rear brake line was leaking, so replaced it with new line, now cant get the brakes to bleed, thinking its the servo, does this need to be reset? tried pumping the brakes then pressing it to the floor, not...


Is the master cylinder full of fluid? When you replace a line like that it takes a fair amount of fluid to fill it and anything else you disconnected. Its very easy to pump the master cylinder "dry" or it can even leak dry while you are replacing the tube. You have to constantly monitor the master cylinder while bleeding a long line. When the fluid gets below the hole in the bottom of the reservoir it will not pump. The easiest way to do this is to have a helper. One person pumps and the other monitors the reservoir. You have to keep the fluid in the cylinder all the time you are bleeding or you will continue to get air in the tube. Fill the cylinder reservoir BEFORE IT IS EMPTY. You also have to use a check valve bleeder or someone has to open and close the break cylinder each time you pump the pedal. Otherwise you **** air back into the line when you let off the pedal. If the bleeder valve is always open you only push our air and **** it right back in. You can never gain on it. All this can be done by one person if you have a bleeding tool that has a check valve in it to keep the air from going back into the brake cylinder. You can find these tools at auto part suppliers. BE SURE YOU USE NEW UNUSED BRAKE FLUID OF THE PROPER TYPE. Fluid that has been exposed to air more than a very short time absorbs moisture from the air and makes it unusable. Make sure you pump enough fluid through the new line to be sure there are no air bubbles in it. When you are sure it is bleed completely, fill the master cylinder with NEW fluid to the fill line. It takes a while to get this done especially if you are working by yourself, but it can be done. Good luck.

Thanks for using FixYa.

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