Question about 2001 Pontiac Grand Am SE
I have checked primary and secondary resistence in the coils both are good. I checked for a trigger signal at the ignition module I have replaced the crankshaft and camshaft position sensor and the spark plugs. the car all off a sudden lost power, it was missing and then died, we could get it to start by depressing the gas pedal but it was missing and backfiring and if you let off the gas it would die. I have done all the above and now it wont even start. for a brief moment it will sound like it wants to crank and then it just whines (like the sound of a starter engaging but not turning motor over) and sometimes when you try to crank it, it will make an awful grinding noise, my brother let me use his obdII scanner and all it told me was multiple misfire, I had previously thought that it might be bad gas but I siphoned some out and took the filter off and both seemed fine I am baffled please help
I disagree with the testing of coils, it has proved fault many times. I would check fuel rail pressure, as fuel pump commonly lose there abilty to build pressure but don't totally die. A DIS spark system should have the abilty to jump 1" with proper battery voltage. With good plugs the spark should be blue in color. The starter may be getting hot, or if it comes against compression when the engine attempts to start, it will do it's job and go back in.
Posted on Sep 24, 2008
How do I check the cam shaft sensor on a 2001 Grand AM?
Posted on Apr 06, 2011
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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Dec 22, 2017 | Pontiac Cars & Trucks
Jul 24, 2016 | 2001 Chevrolet S-10
Are the plugs installed because without compression you will not get ignition/spark.
Are there any codes set???
Is the ignition fuse okay??? Is ECM fuse okay?
Of course first you need power to the coil which should be there whenever the ignition and run switches are on if so see below:
Are the plugs installed
Remove the coil. THEN set your ohmmeter scale to RX1 and place ohmmeter leads on the primary coil windings A (front of coil) to B (middle of coil), B to C (front of coil) and check for primary coil winding resistance which normal resistance range is 0.5-0.7 ohms. If primary resistance is not within this range check out test results below.
Ignition Coil Secondary Circuit Test
With the ignition coil removed from the motorcycle and the ohmmeter set to the RX1K scale place the ohmmeter leads on the secondary coil windings B (middle terminal) to
R (rear secondary terminal/socket), B to F (front secondary terminal/socket) and check for secondary coil winding resistance which normal resistance range will be 5.5-7.5K ohms. If secondary resistance is not within this range check out test results below.
A low resistance value indicates a short in the coil winding which requires coil replacement.
A high resistance value might indicate that there is some corrosion/oxidation of the coil terminals requiring the coil terminals to be cleaned and the resistance test then repeated and if after the test is repeated the resistance is still high after the terminals were cleaned the coil must be replaced.
If there is an infinite ohms or no continuity) resistance value the coil is open and must be replaced.
If you have spark, it sounds like either the sensor in the timing cavity of the engine is bad or the electronic ignition unit is bad.
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