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Re: no power ay outlet
Maybe unpluged power/ground on plug. take off trim to access back of pwr outlet. It should have grnd wire and hot wire. Test hot wire with a different ground. If it tests ok, relocate ground/run a new one. If it has no power, recheck fuse or run a new hot wire from fuse panel.
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Use a test lite on negative side of coil, engine cranking, the lite should pulse?
It appears the vehicle has electronic ignition, There is a separate ignition module. In the wiring diagram, I can't guarantee the wire colors. The older my wirings diagrams are, it seems, the less accurate they are. I hope it is readable, If no spark, I'd check the ignition system, Check fuses--fusible links--battery connections.
Make sure battery has a full charge and battery connections all good. Follow one of the + battery connections, may go to a bunch of fusible links, there should be voltage on both sides of fusible link or it is faulty.
Or, pick one component that is fuse protected and doesn't work, check that fuse circuit for voltage, use a test lite. Some fuses are hot all the time, some go hot with the key on. What is litre size of engine? Is it 4wd or 2?
One wiring diagram I looked at, had two red wires carrying voltage to ignition switch, hot all the time, if you think problem is ignition feed?
1) many vehicles has various fuses for outlet power 2) you must go to the fuse box and check all fuses if are o.k see the diagram attached and test with a VOM 3) if the fuses are o.k you must dissasembly the dashboard, for to test the outlet for +12vdc with VOM, or another outlet power, and replace the labor is medium complicated, but you do not have a choice.Use carefully and remember to unppluged the terminal + of main battery. Unless you want to go to the repair shop.
You have options there. First use a test light and probe the center terminal of the outlet. If it has power, check the ground on the socket. If no power, check the fuse. (if you have no diagram, probe all of them and replace any that don't have power at both ends with the key on, and replace any that are blown. the one you are looking for is usually 20 or 25 amp). Your other option is to create a new circuit. To do that, find an open fuse port that only has power with the key on. attach a wire (close to 14 gauge is best) to a spade connector and plug it into the fuse connection that has power. Run that wire to the connector at the rear of the accessory port (lighter housing center post). If you do that, make sure you install an accessory fuse holder in that wire that is rated at 25 amps. I use that method to install additional ports so you don't have to plug in one of those "octopus outlets" in a working power outlet. Only difference is that I also install a new lighter housing into the dash. That requires a new hole in the dash or console and a ground wire to the outside of the housing.
it is the motor, regulator, switch or wiring. boy are you in for a lot of fun. the door panel has to be removed, instructions can be found via internet, and check the motor with a test lite. it should lite when you press the window switch (key on), and the other wire should show power when the button is pushed the other direction. if you have power, motor is bad. if no power, check for power at switch, check fuse, get a wiring diagram and dive in, or at that point have it looked at
if these fuses are good and they have power at the fuse panel, the outlet itself may be bad. if your inclined and you have a test light you can check to see if the outlet has power going to it by probing the wires on the back of the outlet if you can get to them. test the red and white wire for 12v positive and test the black wire for a good ground. if those wires test ok then it its the outlet itself that is bad. if the wires do not test ok then there is a break in a wire somewhere which will have to be traced and repaired