I purchased this van new 9/07 and noticed a persistant pinging from the engine. Dealer replaced heat shields and knock sensor but problem still exists. I have test driven several other vans ranging from the EX to the Touring and they all seem to ping under mild load. When questioned the dealer they state it is a known problem with no known fix. What to do?
I have a honda 2005 touring...i noticed that the sensors are not working. these were working two weeks before...what might be the reason. any one had that problem. I am not getting any warning for that problem.
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Re: 2007 Touring - Engine Pinging Problem
You probably know that pre-ignition or 'ping' comes from too much spark advance.
Apparently Honda has limited the influence of the knock sensor on the ignition timing in their quest to extract the maximum mileage from that engine.
It's not a healthy condition as you may know; I have seen an engine that was finally destroyed because of too much spark advance; at its extreme, it can punch holes in pistons.
The character of our engines is today under the control of integrated circuits and the 'chip' is what deteremines how an engine handles different conditions and some of the on-board computers have removable PROMs (Programmable Read Only Memory) that can be replaced with others that carry different settings to improve economy or performance but I have not heard of one designed to correct a factory screw-up, a category in which this one needs to be placed.
I would keep a close check on Honda factory 'fixes' to see if they will eventually issue a revised chip on a recall.
I can't believe that this is an intended condition.
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You did not mention when this pinging occurs (all the time? idle? lugging under load?). If it is in fact in the engine, it is most likely a timing issue which can get complicated because it could be caused by a problem with the distributor, timing chain or chain tensioner, one or more faulty engine sensors, etc.
However, there are other causes of this noise. Most pinging noises at idle or low RPMs are not usually in the motor itself but rather from rotating parts that periodically touch something, and often happen when something comes loose or is bent, bearings get worn, or something made it into the engine compartment that shouldn't be there (a tool, a rock, etc.). Typical examples are worn out HVAC fan, cooling fan or AC compressor clutch bearings; a cooling fan blade touching metal or a loose shield; and so on. If this is the case, you should try to locate exactly where this noise is coming from - a stethoscope from an auto parts store may help.
Burn off your current take of gas, get it down to a quarter tank or so. Fill up with premium gas.
If the noise goes away it is probaly a condition known as ping. Which is the predestination of the air fuel mixture in the combustion chamber. This can be caused by carbon buildup and could be resolved with an upper intake and valve cleaning.
If the noise persists it is most likely a mechanical engine noise, an experienced ear will be able to tell you what the noise is.
It is usually the heat shield on the exhaust system. When you drive your truck, the catalytic converter heats up to about 1000 degrees in order to work properly. The car manufacturers put heat shields over the converter to prevent grass from catching fire, because the shield is thinner and it cools faster. As it cools, it ticks and pops for at least an hour after you stop the engine.
The other option is there is a time bomb counting down....lol.
The only reason to run higher octane fuels to to reduce the chance of (engine ping) or (engine knock).Try the regular gas(dont completely fill car) and take notice under hard acceleration if engine makes a pinging noise.If pinging happens then add some high octane gas to compensate for regular.Unless this is a modified engine the regular gas will not do any damage it will result in pinging and loss of fuel milelage.
1. Switch off the engine and turn off the key
2. Turn the key on second level just before cranking and press M button twice
3. Within 10 sec, turn key off
4. press and hold the M button
5. Swith on the key and keep holding M button
6. Wait until hear buzz sound
7. release the buttin
What you are hearing is probably a heat shield on the exhaust system that is loose. It won't cause any harm to drive it like this, it's just annoying. A 'cheap fix' would be to jack the car up, support w/ safety stands, look for something loose on the exhaust system (make sure the car has cooled off, you don't want to grab a hot exhaust pipe), You can usually re-attach the loose shield with something like a wire coat hanger. It may require drilling a hole in the corner of the shield, and then securing the wire after running thru the drilled hole. If you choose to take it to a garage, have them show u what's making the noise, and suggest this fix. If they want to change major exhaust components, tell them u would like to do this, and not an expensive repair at this time. good luck countrycurt0 Another possibility is the engine 'pinging'. I'm assuming the noise is coming from under the car, engine pinging would come from the engine itself. If you believe the noise is from the exhaust, ok, if not let me know. cc
Remove the black octane shorting (one time timing ****** adjustment) bar located near the ignition module ( the connector the bar goes into looks like a fuel injector connector), this should stop the ping, make sure the right jumper is removed, if you pull the wrong one the truck will lack power, if you get the right one the ping will stop and you will feel no change, U may loose a little MPG. If you can't locate it the dealer will do it for little or no charge, just tell them you want the octane adjust short5ing bar removed, did many of them on trucks like yours, the 2300 has a pinging issue, they all do, Mazda and the Ford Ranger.