Question about 1997 Land Rover Defender 90

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Ball joints I have a oil leak on both of the balls on the front of my landrover 90

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Hi,
This ball calls "swirl pin" You must replace "Swirl pin oli seals". Normally this is always leaking from defenders....buy good OEMs...Try to buy them which starts the letters "GO" on part number.
Also there are three oilseals inside the Swirl pin...1- Axel oil seal 2-grease seal Check them also......

Posted on Sep 29, 2008

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Struts and Ball Joints Repair


The oil burning is a problem & won't get better
without an engine rebuild

If the shocks leak that shouldn't be an issue, as
far as you seeing it. All you have to do is look at them,
or go under the truck when it is on a lift

That is why I prefer a local repair shop
Their cheaper & will work with you & educate you,
if you ask

The Ball Joints are most likely bad, regardless of your
feelings.

Deal in reality, not hear say,get the truck on a lift & get
under it & get involved,so you can make informed
decisions

I wouldn't like the oil usage,there is no real fix for that

Jul 24, 2012 | Chevrolet Suburban Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Creaking groan from front driver side tire


The creaking is coming from either the shock ,ball joint, or a-arm bushings. Have someone with you and one person pushing up and down, the other, safely feeling each component till the vibration can be felt. If it is in fact the ball-joint then as long as it is safe (not loose), then just add grease to it as needed and it should go away.

Jun 08, 2009 | 2000 Ford Ranger SuperCab

1 Answer

Need pictures and procedure 91 Ford pickup F250 twin I beam ball joint replacement.


Wheel Spindle, F-150, F-250, F-350
Removal
  1. Raise the front of the vehicle and install safety stands.
  1. Remove the wheel and tire assembly. Refer to Section 04-04 .
  1. Remove the disc brake caliper (2B120) from the rotor and wire it out of the way. Refer to Section 06-03 .
  1. Remove the dust cap, cotter pin, nut retainer, nut, washer and front wheel bearing (1216).
  1. Remove the rotor from the front wheel spindle (3105).





    Item Part Number Description 1 606085 Clamp Bolt 2 3B404 Camber Adjuster 3 800895 Nut 4 800937 Nut 5 3049 Front Suspension Upper Ball Joint 6 3050 Front Suspension Lower Arm Ball Joint 7 3105 Front Wheel Spindle 8 642569 Cotter Pin 9 3304 Steering Sector Shaft Arm Drag Link 10 383489 Nut 11 3001 Front Axle Assembly 12 388727 Bolt A - Tighten to 77-103 Nm
    (57-75 Lb-Ft) B - Tighten to 68-92 Nm
    (50-67 Lb-Ft) C - Tighten to 113-153 Nm (83-112 Lb-Ft) D - Tighten to 340-460 Nm (250-339 Lb-Ft)
  1. Remove bearing cone and roller (1201) and wheel hub grease seal (1190). Discard the seal.
  1. Remove front disc brake rotor shield (2K004). Refer to Section 06-03 .
  1. Disconnect the steering linkage from the integral front wheel spindle and spindle arm by removing the cotter pin and nut and then removing the front wheel spindle tie rod from the spindle arm with Tie Rod End Remover TOOL-3290-D or equivalent.
  1. Remove the cotter pin and castellated nut from the lower ball joint stud.
  1. Remove the nut from the axle clamp bolt and remove the bolt from the axle.
  1. Remove the camber adjuster from the upper ball joint stud and axle beam. If required, use Ball Joint Removing Tool D81T-3010-B or equivalent to remove adjuster.
  1. stj~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Do not use a pickle fork to separate the ball joint from the axle as this will damage the seal and the ball joint socket.
    Strike the inside area of the axle as shown to pop lower ball joints loose from the axle beam.
  1. Remove the front wheel spindle and ball joint from the axle.






Ball Joint, F-150, F-250, F-350 SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Tool Number U-Joint Tool T74P-4635-C Ball Joint Remover T94T-3010-AH
Removal
  1. Remove the front wheel spindle (3105) and ball joint assembly from the axle. Refer to Wheel Spindle, F-150, F-250, F-350 in the Removal and Installation portion of this section.
  1. NOTE: Lower ball joint must be removed first.

    Install the front wheel spindle in a vise and remove the snap ring from the lower ball joint.
  1. Remove the lower ball joint from the front wheel spindle using U-Joint Tool T74P-4635-C and Receiver Cup D81T-3010-A5 or equivalent for F-150. Use Ball Joint Remover T94T-3010-AH for F-250 and F-350.
  1. Turn the forcing screw clockwise until the ball joint is removed from the front wheel spindle.
  2. CAUTION: Do not heat the ball joint or the front wheel spindle to aid in removal.
    Assemble U-joint tool and cup on the upper ball joint, and turn forcing screw clockwise until ball joint is removed from the front wheel spindle.


    Installation
    1. stj~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Do not heat the ball joint or axle to aid in installation.
      NOTE: Upper ball joint must be installed into the front wheel spindle first.

      NOTE: Individual ball joint tools are included in Ball Joint Adapter Set D81T-3010-A or equivalent.

      To install the upper ball joint, assemble C-frame assembly, Ball Joint Receiver Cup D81T-3010-A5 and Installation Cup D81T-3010-A1 and D81T-3010-A3 or equivalents inside cup D81T-3010-A4 or equivalent in position on the front wheel spindle.
    1. Turn forcing screw clockwise until ball joint is seated.



    2. snorkelbobby_49.gif

Mar 25, 2011 | Ford F-250 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Front right hub and sensor assembly or a diagram


stevenhurc_11.jpg

Removal Steps

1. Torsion bar

2. Wheel speed sensor

(if equipped with ABS)

3. Back plate

4. Lower ball joint

5. Upper ball joint

6. Knuckle assembly

7. Oil seal

8. Thrust washer

9. Needle bearing

10. Knuckle

Installation Steps

10. Knuckle

9. Needle bearing

8. Thrust washer

7. Oil seal

6. Knuckle assembly

5. Upper ball joint

4. Lower ball joint

3. Back plate

2. Wheel speed sensor

(if equipped with ABS)

1. Torsion bar

Mar 01, 2011 | 1999 Isuzu Trooper

1 Answer

How to replace a lower ball joint on a 1988 pontiac grand prix hit a pothole and it popped out


Hope this helps and please don't forget to rate! Thank you!


e8fbd9d.gif
Front ball joint with heat shield

Remove and Replace-

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle with jackstands.
  3. Remove the front wheel and tire assembly.
  4. Unfasten the retaining bolts, then remove the ball joint heat shield.
  5. Remove and discard the lower ball joint cotter pin.
  6. Remove the ball joint nut.
  7. Loosen, but do NOT remove, the stabilizer shaft bushing assembly bolts.
  8. Separate the ball joint from the strut/knuckle assembly using ball joint/tie rod puller J-35917 or equivalent.
Do NOT damage the halfshaft boots when drilling out the ball joint rivets.
  1. Drill out the rivets retaining the ball joint to the knuckle strut assembly and remove the ball joint from the knuckle. Use a 1/8 in. drill bit. Refer to the instructions in the ball joint replacement kit.
To install:
  1. Position the lower ball joint in the strut/knuckle assembly.
  2. Install the four ball joint bolts and nuts, as shown in the ball joint kit and tighten to specifications.
  3. Install the ball joint-to-lower control arm. Install a new ball joint-to-lower control arm nut.
  4. Tighten the stabilizer shaft bolts to 35 ft. lbs. (48 Nm).
  5. For 1988-91 vehicles, tighten the ball joint-to-lower control arm nut 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm) plus at least an additional 90° (11/2flats), plus enough to align the cotter pin hole. Do NOT overtighten.
  6. For 1992-96 vehicles, tighten the lower ball joint nut to 63 ft. lbs. (85 Nm). Tighten to align the next slot in the nut with the cotter pin hole in the stud. Do NOT tighten more than 60° (1 flat) to align with the hole.
  7. Install a new cotter pin.
  8. Position the ball joint heat shield and secure with the retaining bolts. Tighten to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm).
  9. Install the front wheel and tire assembly, then carefully lower the vehicle.
  10. Connect the negative battery cable and check for proper suspension operation

Apr 26, 2010 | 1988 Pontiac Grand Prix

1 Answer

How do i stop the squeaky front suspenion


The most common source of front suspension squeek for your vehicle a ball joint that has not been lubricated with each oil change. I would liberaly lubricate the upper and lower ball joints and re-evaluate your noise issue. While this may temporarily resolve the noise concern, the lower ball joints will most likely require replacement.
Good luck.

Mar 03, 2010 | 1993 GMC Jimmy

2 Answers

I have recently bought a 350 sl and the 2 month old mot had no report of any problems. i have left it in for a b service and they've informed me that it needs the front ball joints replacing even though it...


It is possible that the ball joints are bad.
Was there any noises, steering, handling problems before this?
The ball joints may not have been properly lubed during preventative maintenance. The rubber boots may have developed a leak, depleting the grease needed for the joint.
In any case, you may get a second opinion at another shop.
Usually you can look at the joints and pry up between the ball joint on the lower arm and the steering knuckle to gauge the play of this joint.
Jack-up and properly support the vehicle on jack-stands.
Engage the emergency brake.
Remove the front tires.
Lock the front wheels by removing the Key from the Ingnition.
Remove the Brake: Calipers and Rotors to gain better sight of the ball joint and lower steering knuckle connection.
Carefully inspect the ball joint seals for tears and leaks of grease.
Using a prying tool, carefully insert it between the ball joint and steering knuckle avoiding tearing/splitting the ball joint rubber seal; and pry up and or down looking for any play.
If there is play, the ball joint is worn and must be replaced immediately.
If there is no play, the shop was "upselling" you something you did not definitely need.
If the Ball Joints appear to be void of grease: Using a grease gun - lubricate the ball joint using the nipple located on the bottom of the ball joint.
Make sure you check both left and right sides.
Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!

Feb 25, 2010 | 2003 Mercedes-Benz SL-Class

1 Answer

I need to replace my ball joints. can you give me some tips on how to do this? I have never done this before and i would appreciate some pointers on what i need to do to get the job done. Thank you very...


UPPER BALL JOINTS
  1. Raise and support the truck with jackstands. Remove wheel.
  2. Support the lower control arm with a floor jack.
  3. Remove the cotter pin from the upper ball stud and loosen, but do not remove the stud nut.
  4. Using a forcing-type ball joint separator tool, loosen the ball stud in the steering knuckle. When the stud is loose, remove the tool and the stud nut. It may be necessary to remove the brake caliper and wire it to the frame to gain clearance.
  5. On R-series trucks, drill out the rivets using a 1 / 8 in. drill bit. Remove the ball joint assembly.
  6. On C-series trucks, drill out the rivets using a 1 / 8 in. drill bit to start a pilot hole. Drill out the rivets with a 1 / 2 in. bit. Remove the ball joint assembly using a screw-type forcing tool.

To install:
Installation is the reverse of removal but please note the following important steps.
  1. On R-series vehicles, tighten the ball joint nuts to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).
  2. On R-series vehicles, tighten the ball stud nut as follows:

    1 / 2 ton trucks: 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm), plus the additional torque to align the cotter pin. Do not exceed 90 ft. lbs. (122 Nm) and never back the nut off to align the pin. 3 / 4 and 1 ton trucks: 90 ft. lbs. (122 Nm), plus additional torque necessary to align the cotter pin. Do not exceed 130 ft. lbs. (176 Nm) and never back off the nut to align the pin.
  3. On C-series vehicles, tighten the ball joint nuts as follows:

    1988-90 models, tighten the nuts to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm) for the 15 and 25 Series and 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm) for 35 the Series. 1991-98 models, tighten the nuts to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).
  4. On C-series vehicles, tighten the ball stud nut to 90 ft. lbs. (120 Nm) on 1988-90 models, 84 ft. lbs. (115 Nm) on 1991-95 models and 74 ft. lbs. (100 Nm) on 1996-98 models.
  5. Install a new lube fitting and lubricate the new joint.
LOWER BALL JOINTS
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Support the lower control arm with a floor jack.
  3. Remove the wheel.
  4. Remove the lower stud cotter pin and loosen, but do not remove, the stud nut.



0900c1528008f64b.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 2: Remove the lower ball joint using a suitable tool-R-Series shown, C-series similar


0900c1528008f64c.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 3: Use an appropriate tool to separate the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle-R and C-Series


0900c1528008f64d.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 4: Installing the lower ball joint-R and C-Series
  1. Loosen the ball joint with a forcing-type ball joint tool. It may be necessary to remove the brake caliper and wire it to the frame to gain enough clearance.
  2. When the stud is loose, remove the tool and ball stud nut.
  3. Install a spring compressor on the coil spring for safety.
  4. Pull the brake disc and knuckle assembly up and off the ball stud and support the upper arm with a block of wood.
  5. Remove the ball joint from the control arm with a ball joint fork or another suitable tool.

To install:
Installation is the reverse of removal but please note the following important steps.
  1. On R-series vehicles, start the new ball joint into the control arm. Position the bleed vent in the rubber boot facing inward.
  2. On C-series vehicles, force the ball joint into position using a screw-type forcing tool. The ball joint will bottom in the control arm. The grease seal should face inboard.
  3. On R-series vehicles, turn the screw until the ball joint is seated in the control arm.
  4. Lower the upper arm and match the steering knuckle to the lower ball stud.
  5. On C-series vehicles, start ball stud into the knuckle. Install the nut and tighten it to 90 ft. lbs. (122 Nm) on 1988-90 models; 84 ft. lbs. (115 Nm) on 1991-94 models and 94 ft. lbs. (128 Nm) on 1995-98 models. Advance the nut to align the cotter pin hole and insert the new cotter pin. NEVER back off the nut to align the cotter pin hole; always advance it!
  6. On R-series vehicles, tighten the ball stud nut to 80-100 ft. lbs. (108-135 Nm), plus the additional torque necessary to align the cotter pin hole. Do not exceed 130 ft. lbs. (176 Nm) or back the nut off to align the holes with the pin.
  7. Install a new lube fitting and lubricate the new joint.

Jan 15, 2010 | 1996 GMC Sierra

1 Answer

Front brake rotors.


1. Loosen the wheel nuts slightly. 2. Raise the front of the car and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 3. Remove the wheel nuts and front wheel. 4. Remove the brake hose mounting bolts. 5. Remove the caliper bracket mounting bolts, and hang the caliper to one side. CAUTION: To prevent accidental damage to the caliper or brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper from the undercarriage. 6. On ABS equipped vehicles, remove the wheel sensor wire bracket, then remove the wheel sensor from the knuckle but do not disconnect the wheel sensor connector. NOTE: Use ball joint removers to separate the ball joints from the suspension or tie-rod end. 7. Clean any dirt or grease off the ball joint. Remove the cotter pin from the tie-rod end ball joint castle nut and remove the nut. 8. Apply grease to the special tool on the areas shown. This will ease installation of the tool and prevent damage to the pressure bolt threads. 9. Install a 10mm hex nut on the ball joint. Be sure that the hex nut is flush with the ball joint pin end to prevent damage to the threaded end of the ball joint. 10. Adjust the jaw spacing by turning the pressure bolt. NOTE: If necessary, apply penetrating type lubricant to loosen the ball joint. 11. Once the tool is in place, turn the adjusting bolt as necessary to make the jaws parallel. Then hand tighten the pressure bolt, and recheck the jaws to make sure they are still parallel as pictured above. 12. With a wrench, tighten the pressure bolt until the ball joint shaft pops loose from the steering arm. WARNING: WEAR EYE PROTECTION. THE BALL JOINT CAN BREAK LOOSE SUDDENLY AND SCATTER DIRT OR OTHER DEBRIS IN YOUR EYES. 13. Remove the tool, then remove the nut from the end of the ball joint and pull the ball joint out of the steering/suspension arm. Inspect the ball joint boot and replace if damaged. 14. Remove the cotter pin from the lower arm ball joint castle nut, and remove the nut. 15. Install a 12mm hex nut on the ball joint. Be sure that the hex nut is flush with the ball joint pin end, or the threaded section of the ball joint pin might be damaged by the ball joint remover. 16. Use the ball joint remover, 32mm, as shown to separate the lower ball joint and lower arm. NOTE: If necessary, apply penetrating type lubricant to loosen the ball joint. 17. Remove the knuckle protector. 18. Remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint castle nut, and remove the nut. 19. Install a 10mm hex nut on the ball joint. Be sure that the hex nut is flush with the ball joint pin end, or the threaded section of the ball joint pin might be damaged by the ball joint remover. 20. Use the ball joint remover as shown to separate the upper ball joint and knuckle. NOTE: If necessary, apply penetrating type lubricant to loosen the ball joint. 21. Pull the knuckle outward and remove the driveshaft outboard joint from the knuckle by tapping the driveshaft end using a plastic hammer, then remove the knuckle. 22. Remove the knuckle from the hub unit. 23. Remove the four flange bolts, then separate the hub unit from the brake disc.

Jun 08, 2009 | 1994 Honda Accord

2 Answers

1995 toyota land cruiser


Your front "ball & socket" joints are in dire need of lubrication. You need to do this:
Take the tires off, and look for a fill plug behind the hub, on the housing, above the ball & socket. Remove the plug, and fill it up with 80-90 gear oil. Replace the plug, do the other side.
What you have is a dry joint, and the clicking noise is coming from the u-joint (actually called a "Rzeppa" joint), inside the ball/socket/hub...a good lubrication will eliminate your condition. Hope this answers your question, please feel free to comment back with any other questions...And, thanks for choosing FixYa.

Oct 30, 2008 | 1995 Toyota Land Cruiser

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