I have spent a small fortune on the front end of my car (2 new hub assemblies, and a driver-side axle) only to have the car still clicking. I have no clue what it could be the passanger-side axle seems to be fine theres no grease depositson the wheel wall like it was on the drivers-side. It clicks when turning to the right, and sometimes when the car is going straight. Does anyone have any clue as to what it could be?? I am dumb-founded by this problem, could the other axle be bad without signs of it? Please help.
I had the same trouble with my 1999 GT. Ended up being the starter. The spring to hold it off was worn and because of the positioning of the starter on the 3800 when I turned right it partially engaged. New starter, no noise. Hope it helps.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Hi Douglas, I'm glad to help. My first suggestion is to get to complete shaft. This way you want have any problems later on. It's not that much more expensive and you'll be glad you did. Below is the procedure for replacing them.
Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. Refer to Hoisting in the Lubrication And Maintenance section of this manual for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
Remove the wheel and tire assembly from the vehicle.
Remove the wave washer Wave Washer from the end of the stub axle
CAUTION: Wheel bearing damage will result if after loosening hub nut, vehicle is rolled on the ground or the weight of the vehicle is allowed to be supported by the tires.
With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub from turning, loosen and remove the stub axle to hub nut.
Remove the disc brake caliper from the steering knuckle. Caliper is removed by first rotating top of caliper away from steering knuckle and then removing bottom of caliper out from under machined abutment on steering knuckle Brake Caliper Mounting To Steering Knuckle
Support disc brake caliper assembly by using a wire hook and suspending it from the strut assembly Correctly Supported Disc Brake CaliperDo not allow the brake caliper assembly to hang by the brake flex hose.
Remove nut attaching outer tie rod end to steering knuckle Removing Tie Rod End Attaching NutNut is to be removed from tie rod end using the following procedure, hold tie rod end stud with a 11/32 socket while loosening and removing nut with a wrench.
Using a pry bar, separate steering knuckle from ball joint stud Separating Ball Joint Stud From Steering KnuckleNote: Use caution when separating ball joint stud from steering knuckle, so ball joint seal does not get cut.NOTE: Care must be taken not to separate the inner C/V joint during this operation. Do not allow driveshaft to hang by inner C/V joint after removing outer C/V Joint from the hub/bearing assembly in steering knuckle, end of driveshaft must be supported.
Support the outer end of the driveshaft assembly. Insert a pry bar between inner tripod joint and transaxle case Disengaging Inner Tripod Joint From Transaxle Pry against inner tripod joint, until tripod joint retaining snap ring is disengaged from transaxle side gear.
Hold inner tripod joint and interconnecting shaft of driveshaft assembly. Remove inner tripod joint from transaxle, by pulling it straight out of transaxle side gear and transaxle oil seal Tripod Joint Removal from TransaxleWhen removing tripod joint, do not let spline or snap ring drag across sealing lip of the transaxle to tripod joint oil seal.
Thoroughly clean spline and oil seal sealing surface, on tripod joint. Lightly lubricate oil seal sealing surface on tripod joint with fresh clean transmission lubricant.
Holding driveshaft assembly by tripod joint and interconnecting shaft, install tripod joint into transaxle side gear as far as possible by hand Tripod Joint Removal from Transaxle
Grasp inner tripod joint an interconnecting shaft. Forcefully push the tripod joint into side gear of transaxle, until snap ring is engaged with transaxle side gear. Test that snap ring is fully engaged with side gear by attempting to remove tripod joint from transaxle by hand. If snap ring is fully engaged with side gear, tripod joint will not be removable by hand.
Clean all debris and moisture out of steering knuckle, in the area were outer C/V joint will be installed into steering knuckle.
Ensure that front of outer C/V joint which fits against the face of the hub and bearing is free of debris and moisture before installing outer C/V joint into hub and bearing assembly Outer C/V Joint Inspection
Install tie rod end into steering knuckle. Start attaching nut onto stud of tie rod end. While holding stud of tie rod end stationary using a 11/32 socket, Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut tighten tie rod end to steering knuckle attaching nut. Then using a crowfoot and 11/32 socket Torquing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut , tighten the tie rod end attaching nut to a torque of 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.)
Install disc brake caliper assembly on steering knuckle. Caliper is installed by first sliding bottom of caliper under abutment on steering knuckle, and then rotating top of caliper against top abutment Brake Caliper Mounting To Steering Knuckle
Install disc brake caliper assembly to steering knuckle attaching bolts Front Disc Brake Caliper Attaching Bolts Tighten the disc brake caliper assembly attaching bolts to a torque of 22 N·m (195 in. lbs.)
Clean all foreign matter from the threads of the outer C/V joint stub axle. Install the washer and stub axle to hub/bearing assembly nut on stub axle and securely tighten nut.
Install front wheel and tire assembly. Install and tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half the required specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.)
I have had them so stuck that I have had to pull the whole spindle off with the axle still attached.....be prepared to buy a new axle and probobly a new hub and bearing assembly....when out try more heat....I had to borrow a torch last time it happened to me on a Stratus....ended up having to almost cut it out with torch....a new axle will have a smaller core charge than a reman. one if you ruin the axle....and all that pounding cant be good for the bearing/hub assembly...good luck...Lee
Specifically for 2003 Tiburon V6 6 speed, but may work for you as well. -Loosen tire lugs -Remove center caps with screw driver or similar tool (careful not to scratch caps) -loosen axle nut
-Jack the car up and place on jack stands -Chalk rear wheels -finish removing tire lug nuts and tire -remove cotter pin and finish removing axle nut -remove brake pads -remove caliper and brake assembly -remove rotor (possible PITA), use extreme caution hammering a stuck rotor!
IMPORTANT STEP: *remove 2 bolts from strut mount assembly. This will allow you enough clearance to "cleanly" pull axle out with minimal force/hammering. No axle puller tool necessary and no messing with the lower ball joint.
-Now gently tap the axle out of the hub assembly -pull the rest of the axle out of the hub assembly by hand or pry with long screw driver or pickle fork. Again, since you removed the 2 strut assembly bolts, your hub assembly should have dropped down and away from the axle quit a bit to allow you enough clearance to remove axle from hub assembly
**Follow next steps for DRIVER SIDE ONLY** -Next, place a fluid pan to catch any leaking trans fluid before removing axle from transmission side. -Using a long screwdriver or pickle fork, pry the axle away from the transmission -Remove entire axle and replace with new one -Installation is reverse of removal steps. (not difficult, just line up the splines and everything should "pop" in place
Buy the right CV axle. Raise right front of vehicle. Remove wheel. use a lugnut and washers to secure brake rotor so that it is not flopping and trapping rust behind. Remove axle nut. Loosen nuts from outer tie rod end stud and lower ball joint stud almost all the way off, but do not remove them completely. Seperate the studs from knuckles by striking each knuckle with a ball peen hammer. After the tie rod and lower ball joint are seperated from the spindle knuckles, pry down on lower control arm and push end of axle through hub toward transaxle until hub and spindle assembly is free from axle/CV joint. Place drain pan under transmission. Carefully place pry bar between innner CV joint and transmission and pop axle assembly loose. Install new axle in reverse of the dissassembly.
There is no adjustment, The hub assembly is a bolt in assembly with presealed permanent bearings. I looked up the part to verify & it appears it even comes with the sensor when replaced as an assembly.
I recently replaced similar ones on a FWD SUV & didn't even remove the Ball Joint or the Tie rod ends, or the Axle. I removed the axle nut, pressed in the axle enough to make sure it wasn't stuck,(silicone lubricant) removed the brakes & caliper & rotor then removed the bolts holding on the hub assembly & using a slide axle puller, gently & gradually tapped this out. then just reassemble. I spent no more than 2 1/2 hours replacing both front hubs & I'm not that young anymore. No excessive pressure to harm the ball joint, just tapping. I did have to remove the speed sensor from the back side.
the ansew i found is replacing the seal around the joint and from both end removing it and cleaning it out i had rocks in mine from going threw water and mud ita a all day deal but a twenty doller fix axle shaft oil seal is all i had to replace
When I replace the axle halves, I run the Nut off till it is level with the shaft end. THen take a piece of wood and set it across the shaft and hit the wood with a hammer. Usually only takes one or two hits and pops right out.Then I remove the nut and finish removal . Hope this helps, Good luck and have a great day.
I have a 2002 Dodge 1500 Ram 4x4, quad cab and had the same problem. In
2wd the clicking was constant, in 4wd it would go away. Also I had no
4wd while in 4wd, found that out after a snow storm. I took my truck to
a buddies garage (a Dodge mechanic), he said this is a common problem.
He pulled the drivers side wheel, hub, axle and stub axle. The stub
axle splines where it goes into the CV joint and and the internal
splines in the CV joint were gone. Almost smooth even. The wheel
bearing was completely wore out too. I ended up replacing the hub
assembly, both the inner and outer axles. Not a cheap fix either I
have about $600 repair bill, but it's back on the road now smooth and