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Put the rear up on jack stands and remove the wheels and brake drums. Then unbolt the rear differential cover and drain the gear oil. Then, you remove the pinion securing bolt. DO NOT ROTATE THE WHEELS AS THIS CAN CAUSE THE PINION GEARS TO FALL OUT. Push the rear axle shaft inward toward the vehicle and remove the "C" clip that secures the axle to the pinion gears. Then pull the axle shaft outward and out of the axle housing. Inspect the axle shaft for scuffing and excessive wear on the place where the wheel bearings rest. If there is excessive wear, you can use a "repair bearing", which is modified to install so it runs on an unworn part of the axle shaft. Otherwise a regular replacement bearing is fine. You need a slide hammer removal tool to extract the old bearing from the axle housing, and a bearing install tool to insert the new one without damage. Once the new bearing is in, reinsert the axle shaft, secure with the "C" clip, and pull outward to latch the "C" clip into its recess. Install the pinion bolt. Reinstall the differential cover with appropriate gasket or sealer. Fill differential with approved gear oil in the recommended amount. Ensure that if the rear is a positraction rear end there may be an additive required to the gear oil for proper operation.
Using the wooden handle end of a hammer, push the piston and connecting rod assembly outward until piston rings clear cylinder bore. Remove piston and connecting rod assembly through top of cylinder block.
Disconnect the battery. Remove the spark plugs. You will need to remove the engine and transmission from the vehicle (unless you have a lift, in which case you only need to remove the transmission.). Separate the engine and transmission. Remove the flex plate (flywheel). Remove the serpentine belt and crankshaft pulley. Remove the timing cover, timing chain, and crankshaft timing gear. Remove the oil pan. You may have to remove the oil pump for clearance. Remove the rod bearing caps. Keep them in proper sequence. Remove the main bearing caps. Keep them in proper sequence. Remove the crankshaft.
You will need new rod and main bearings to replace those already in the vehicle. You will need a new oil pan gasket and timing cover gasket set. Depending upon mileage and age, you may want to replace the timing gears, chain and guides. You must know all proper torque values for the crank and rod bearing caps, flex plate, and timing cover.
As you can well see, this is not a job for the auto DIY novice.
Basic . remove drive shaft. remove rear engine mount after supporting gear box on mobile jack and engine ,with blocks under sump undo gear box bolts and if the starter motor is involved . remove the terminal from the battery first. undo the slave cylinder of the bell housing / cable if applicable. pull the gear box to the rear . remove the pressure plate bolts by going around the plate a little at a time . Lift the pressure plat away and catch the clutch plate as it falls out. Make sure that you see the way the clutch plate goes in as if you install the new one incorrectly you will be pulling the box again. check the spigot bearing / bush in the rear of the crank shaft and if faulty or worn replace it . check flywheel face and if you want a good job then have it re-machined to flat again . Follow tensioning procedures when replacing the flywheel. put the clutch plate in position and use a clutch aligning tool to ensure that it is centred. AT this point if the plate is in correctly you should be able to hold it against the flywheel and turn it freely without the hub hitting on the fly wheel bolts. fit the new pressure plate and do the bolts up in the correct manner to the tension specs. . Replace the throw out bearing on to the housing in the throw out fork. Remove the clutch aligning tool ( tap with hammer if it appears jammed ) refit the gear box and associated items in reverse order of removal.
When you start the engine the clutch shaft into the gear box is spinning with the engine crankshaft. When you depress the clutch the noise stops because the input shaft is not turning. It points to a failing bearing on the clutch input shaft and if that proves to be the case then the box has to come out and be pulled down for the bearing to be replaced.
Drop the tail shaft . remove the gear lever from inside the cab. remove the housing bolts and pull gear box back out of the way. remove the clutch pressure plate by evenly undoing the pressure plate cover bolts. lift away along with the clutch plate Remember the way the clutch plate is facing as it will only go in one way. If the flywheel is badly blued or scored remove it and have it machined flat. Check and if necessary replace the bearing/bush in the end of the crank shaft. Fit new clutch plate the correct way or the flywheel bolts will hit the clutch plate and you will have to do the job again. position up the pressure plate and use a clutch aligning tool to hold the clutch plate exactly in line with the bush/bearing in the crank. tighten up the cover plate bolts evenly so as not to warp the pressure plate. Replace the clutch throw out bearing as it will be on the way out. Reposition the gear box back on to the motor making sure that the flange faces remain parallel at all times so that the splines of the input shaft do not bind on the clutch plate splines. Push the gear box all the way home and bolt up. Do not use the bolts to pull the box in as there is something wrong and you will damage something. The box will go all the way home easily if you have done everything correctly. Finish the job.
Raise and safely support the front of the vehicle on jackstands.
Remove the right front wheel and inner splash shield.
Remove the accessory drive belt from the engine.
Remove the center bolt of the crankshaft pulley.
Using a claw-type gear puller, remove the crankshaft pulley from the crankshaft. When using the puller, make certain that the claws are situated on the inner section of the pulley. If the claws are used on the outer section of the pulley, the pulley will be damaged.
Use tool C-4991 or the equivalent to remove the oil seal from the timing chain cover. Make certain not to damage the crankshaft seal surface of the cover.
Fig. 10: Use a claw-type gear puller to remove the crankshaft pulley/damper — 3.3L and 3.8L engines
Fig. 11: Use the seal remover tool C-4991 to remove the crankshaft oil seal — 3.3L and 3.8L engines
Install the new seal by using tool C-4992 or the equivalent. Place the seal into the opening with the seal spring towards the inside of the engine. Install the seal until flush with the cover.
To install the crankshaft pulley to the crankshaft a 5.9 in. (150mm) long bolt, a thrust bearing and washer, and plate L-4524 or equivalent.
Tap the crankshaft pulley onto the crankshaft with a rubber or plastic mallet making sure to hit the pulley on the center portion.
Once the pulley is started onto the crankshaft, install a nut the thrust bearing and washer, and the plate L-4524 onto the bolt.
Thread the bolt into the end of the crankshaft and screw it in at least 2 or 3 complete turns.
Tighten down on the nut on the bolt to slowly press the pulley onto the crankshaft until completely seated.
Remove the bolt, nut, washer and thrust bearing, and plate L-4524 from the crankshaft.
Fig. 12: Installing the crankshaft pulley — 3.3L and 3.8L engines
Install the center crankshaft pulley bolt and tighten it to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
Install the accessory drive belt and tighten by following the instructions in Section 1.
Yes you do have to pull the axle and make sure you put everything back in the same place you removed it from. The ring and pinion shouldn't have to be bothered. You will have to remove the rear end cover to remove the axle. Its very easy to do. There is a pin inside the rear end that has to be removed to pull the axle. Pay attention to how you take it out and put it back the same way. It sounds as if you can do this with no problem.
you need a gear puller to pull the gear off. but to change the seal for the crankshaft, you only remove the timing gear and change the seal on the cover that you removed. there is nor need to pull the gear itself. if you pull the gear, you still can't change any other bearings or seals without removing the heads and manifold.