Yeah, everything was changed, and yes it is equipped with abs. I always know when it's going to happen because i feel a **** shutter in the front end. If i speed up, it's like a flat tire. Also, when it happens, the brake pedal is hard. The rest of the time, it feels pretty normal. Between diesel trucks during the day and working on our round track car at night, my husband pretty well has a full schedule. I am glad I dont have to keep bothering him with questions now, Not that i want to bother anybody,mind you. He's just ready to park it and get another one to be honest with you.Thanks for your help so far. I'll talk to you again soon.
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Ok many people have this problem when they do brakes that ABS equiped. First of all make sure that all your connection are tight at the calipers. Check and make sure you have no visible leaks at all every where on the vehicle. Second alot of people do not know that the vehicle must be running when you bleed the brakes when the vehicle has ABS brakes. So the solution to your problem is very simple check to make sure master cylinder is full, then start your vehicle and have some one pump the brakes then hold down and open bleeder valve. You need to do this several times with ABS brakes,make sure you continue to check master cylinder fluid level continuously. Always start bleeding the brake that is farthest away from master cylinder first then continue to work your way to the closesest. Remeber when bleeding brakes when equiped with ABS the vehicle must be running to allow the ABS pump to run and bleed as well.
TO CHANGE FRONT BRAKE ROTORS. FIRST YOU NEED TO SAFELY RAISE SUPPORT VECHICLE ON JACK STANDS.MAKE SURE VECHICLE PARKED ON LEVEL SOLID GROUND.YOU NEED TO REMOVE BRAKE CALIPER BOLTS AND THE CALIPER FROM THE KNUCKLE.DONT LET CALIPER HANG BY BRAKE HOSE USE A PIECE OF WIRE TO SUPPORT CALIPER.REMOVE THE DISC BRAKE ROTOR RETAINING SCREWS IF EQUIPPED.IF THE ROTOR WILL NOT EASILY PULL OFF,SCREW TWO 8MM BOLTS INTO THE DISC BRAKE REMOVAL HOLES AND TURN THE BOLTS TWO TURNS AT A TIME TO PRESS THE ROTOR FROM THE HUB.
If the caliper is seizing and it is not the caliper it is the module that controls how the brake fluid is distributed. I don't have my book in front of me at the moment but when you look under teh hood on teh drivers side you will see a block that has the brake lines coming out of it. That is part of teh ABS system is one is installed and is a master brake control hub if it ABS isn't installed. being that new I would assume it was equipped with ABS. There are a couple of ways you can test if this is teh problem. If I remember correctly the MPV brakes with all 4 brakes, that means you can, as a temp test, switch the lines to see if the caliper problem changes to the different caliper. If it does then you know for a fact it is that unit and not the caliper. Also, something to consider, the caliper that is locking maybe locking because the problem is actually the caliper on the opposite side. If the caliper on the left front is stuck in the open position, on occasion that will cause too much fluid pressure to the right front giving you the impression the problem is the right side and it isn't. This is rare but certainly a possibility. As a general rule you should always replace Calipers in pairs. If you replace the right front you should replace the left front, same with the rear calipers.
First of all you will need to raise the wheels off the ground. Check both sides to see if they are both holding. Here is a list of what can cause the hanging in order of probablility;
1) Caliper or Caliper hose. (If the caliper is not free it won't release the pressure from the pad. Always replace the hose with the caliper because the hose may look good, but can collapse internally holding the pressure.
2) Master cylinder. Not likely but possible.
3) ABS is engaging. This can be caused by a short, it is rare, but it does happen. The short is telling the system that the wheel needs to be applied.
I would replace the rubber brake hoses at the calipers. They get damaged internally when the calipers are left hanging while replacing pads. I've seen too many garages and shops do it not knowing what is going on inside the hose.
Hello, I just happen to be doing my breaks too. Open the bleeder port on the caliper and put a flat piece of metal across both pistons and compress them with a C-clamp. When you have them compressed close the bleeder port and remove the clamp and install caliper. You should always compress the caliper piston with the bleeder open especially with ABS brakes. Otherwise you have to reset the ABS. Good luck and remember to add brake fluid.
have you check? the master cylinder. sometine when you get the rotors cut they dont come out right because they may be warped or to thin. if you did the job yourself you might have put the calipers in on the wrong side. this happens alot . if your rotors front and rear are fine then switch the calipers to the other side.
i'll do more research on this tomorrow.
yes there is a valve body
yes it could be the master cylinder
and as odd as it seem both calipers could have failed at the same time. incidentally another issue would be that the brakes locked on. i presume he changed the pads AND the rotor(s).
as i said i'll do more research in the morning on it. i have to change both front rotors and pads on my van on wednesday... might even notice something then that may help you.
You didn't mention if this vehicle has abs brakes... if you have stop you will know whether you have them or not.
actually something else that has occured to me... when you apply the brakes is there any shaking or do you feel a pulsing in the brake pedal ?
ok if it's both now then it may be another issue. does that vehicle have abs brakes ?
and yes they are sort of connected in a way... by hydaulic fluid (brake fluid) the thing is when one wheel develops a fluid loss instead of complete brake loss you would still have brakes in two wheels... diagonally across from each other.
i'm not questioning your husbands work... but did he bleed the air from the the system when he changed brake lines ?