Your engine does NOT have a carburator. Unless the engine was replaced by an earlier one, 1982 Volvo's were fuel injected.
This is an older fuel injection design that is a "constant flow" type system ie. there is a constant spray of fuel while the engine is running. Newer fuel injection systems, including Volvo, are "demand" type systems where fuel is only sprayed through the injectors when the engine electronics signal it to do so.
In any case, this older system is very sensitive to vacuum leaks. Check all your hoses for splits, hardening or connection looseness. Check the seals on each fuel injector (there are 4, one for each cylinder). If they are hard or cracked, replace them.
The later problem was the case on my 1981 240 which had the same problem. New fuels injector seals and the car runs perfect.
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The pining noise you are hearing is detonation in the engine and comes from incorrect air/fuel ratio making the engine run too lean, It is spontaneous combustion occurring before spark and tends to drive the piston back down the bore. It is detrimental to the engine and should be rectified asap. Run fault codes and look for sensor problems. Vin numbers are unlikely to show the gear ratio of the rear end as there are 4 ratios for each model of car. Jack up on side of the rear . count the number of turns the pinion does for each revolution of the wheel . Divide that by 2 ( side gears in diff carrier multiply by 2 when driving one wheel)and you will get the ratio. So 10 revolutions of the tire gives 35.5. revolutions at the pinion equals to 17.5 or a ratio of 1.75: 1 ratio
When the engine warms up engine management sensor warms up and the resistant builds up,signals dont reach the ECM,out all that was replaced what about the cranksensor?that is a popular failure when warm
Your Volvo does not have have a problem at all. The feature is what is known as a 'turbo timer' and is an important part of most turbocharged vehicles such as yours.
Your volvo is powered by a 5 cyclinder 2.4 liter engine that is turbocharged. Which means the engine works on the principle of 'forced induction' whcih helps it make more power.
A turbo like yours has a small impellor placed in the early section of the exhaust which is then spun up by heated and expanding exhaust vapors. this power is then transferred back to a 'charger or pump that actually forces additional air into the engine resulting in the ability to burn a more powerful mixture of air to fuel. Unlike your engine which even under very aggressive driving will only sustain forces at most approachign 9 thousand rpm, a turbo charger often spins with speeds in the tens or even hundreds of thousands of revolutions per minute. because of this they depend on a steady stream of engine oil to both lubricate and saturate the very rapidly spinning parts to keep them cool.
when the engine is suddenly shut off after a long or spirited drive the oil pump also stops, this could result in overheating and damage to the turbo.
As a result of this, Volvo was one of the fisrt companies to install a 'turbo timer' mechanism in its T models which as you noticed will continue to operate the fan for a pre calculated amount of time after you shut the car off in order to properly cool down the turbo.
Again your car has no problem whatsoever, this is a good thing and a nice feature to have whcih will definably lend itself to extending the overall life of your engine over time.
The RX8 has always been a bit problematic at starting, at least until Mazda started fitted uprated starters (~2006). The standard, weak starter motor spins the engine quite slowly, causing problems getting compression to start the engine.
There's various things to try...
DON'T pump the gas whilst starting - foot OFF the accelarator (might be beneficial to depress the clutch just to reduce the loading on the starter motor). Check all the RX8 owners' forums - standard advice.
DO use a confident turn of the key - keep cranking until it catches (but not for more than 10 seconds - in which case leave for 10 seconds before trying again) - don't just crank for a second or two, then retry. That's as per owner's manual.
DO ensure that you leave the engine to warm up ALWAYS before shutting off - to avoid fuel being left in the rotor - that affects compression badly if left any period of time, resulting in very poor starting (risk of flooding).
If non of the above helps, get a hot-engine compression check to ensure that the engine isn't shot. If the engine is okay, then consider getting an uprated starter motor, or 3rd-party replacement. Many 2004/2005s have had their starters replaced (I considered mine, although I've had no problem over winter :)
CHECK BATTERY VOLTAGE. IT SHOULD BE 12.5 VOLTS. IF NOT CHARGE BATTERY HAVE IT LOAD TESTED FOR DEAD CELLS. MAKE SURE BATTERY CABLES IS CLEAN AND TIGHT. FREE FROM CORROSSION. NOW IF BATTERY CABLES IS THE ORIGINAL CABLES. REPLACE THEM. NOW CHECK THE ALTERNATOR OUTPUT. USING A DIGITAL VOLT METER.IT SHOULD BE 13.5 TO 14.5 VOLTS.WITH CAR RUNNING IF NOT REMOVE ALTERNATOR HAVE IT CHECKED OUT AT AUTO ZONE OR ADVANCE AUTO PARTS .BESURE TO TURN OFF RADIO.BEFORE REMOVING NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE.BECAUSE IF YOU DONT.YOU WILL LOSE RADIO CODE.AND RADIO WONT PLAY WHEN YOU TURN IT ON.