Question about 1993 Jeep Cherokee Country

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Charokee charging problem

Wouldn't it get full voltage until it started charging then ramp down to a lower voltage to maintain the charge rate? Does the computor control the ground as well as the field voltage?

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I'm not sure whether the high or low side of the field is controlled; typically, it is the low side with 12V applied to the field and the low side controlled by a a transistor in the ECU. If you are measuring 12V at a field terminal, it may be normal and when I have monitored this voltage on the controlled side, it was always lower than 12. I can't give you a range because ot the variation of load on the output.
If you measure the resistance of the field winding, you can get a rough idea of the current it draws. For example; measuring 100ω would yield a max current of ~120mA. ( I=E/R)
I have something in mind about 200ω but that seems too high but it should be in the range of ~100 - 200ω. 

Posted on Sep 08, 2008

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That means your system voltage is the same all the time. That is probably a good sign.
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If it doesn't show lower before the engine starts you may have to check the gauge operation to verify its working.
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I have a thought you may try testing your battery voltage with the car turned off .It should read 12 volts or higher if not charge battery than check again if battery is lower than 12 volts after charging replace battery.If 12 volts or higher start engine check voltage on battery again it should be 13 volts to 14.5 volts not higher if voltage readings are lower than 13 volts or higher than 14.5 volts replace alternator.

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You will need a digital volt meter. This can be bought at Harbor Freight for less than $10. With the car engine off check the battery voltage. It should be at least 12 volts. Now start the car and check the voltage across the battery terminals it should have raised to a minimum of 13.5 volts and as much as 14.5 volts. Now if that all checks ok, turn on the lights and blower motor. It should still maintain 13.5 volts or reasonably close. If it drops lower than the voltage the battery had when it was not running the alternator is not charging the battery. Please rate my answer so I am awarded points for it.

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Alternator may be bad, causing battery to lose voltage. I think you should have the starting/charging system checked, and replace the battery and alternator as required by the testing. I wouldn't drive it until this problem is fixed, as the car can shut down when the voltage gets too low, working off of the battery. Check whether the charge light is lit when the car is running. If it is, there is a self detected problem with the alternator. If not, there could still be a voltage charge problem, that hasn't been self detected, perhaps a diode is bad or voltage regulator is faulty, causing the alternator to barely put out enough power to keep the car running.

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I have a 2006 Chev Impala. Recently the radio would have low volume which I could not adjust and the next time I went to start the car , it wouldn't start. I would boost it and it ran fine for about 2...


I actually have two thoughts on this. The first thing that comes to mind is that the dealer may have sold you a defective battery. The second thing that comes to mind is that your alternator may not be charging properly. If your alternator is still charging, but charging at to lower voltage your battery will still maintain a charge but will go dead over time. I would ask your dealer to perform a load test on your charging system in order to figure out what is going wrong. I hope this helps you out.

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It sounds like the vehicle has stopped charging the battery.Charge your new battery first and see if it starts,or put a volt meter across the 2 teminals and read the voltage ,if it is below 10.6 volts the powertrain control module and the transmission control module will nt funtion due to low voltage.The alternator has an external regulator located in the powertrain control module,which regulates the voltage at 13.6 volts.If this is the case you need to test the alternator.You can take it off and take it to an auto parts store(they will test it at no charge),or you can get a scanner and full field the unit.Start there and let me know because the underhood fuse panel(pdc)could also cause problems.thank you Ramundoo

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STARTING YOUR DIAGNOSIS
What happens when you attempt to start the engine? If nothing happens when you turn the key,"http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/us20310.htm"to determine its state of charge. Many starters won't do a thing unless there is at least 10 volts available from the battery. A low battery does not necessarily mean the battery is the problem, though. The battery may have been run down by prolonged cranking while trying to start the engine. Or, the battery's low state of charge may be the result of a charging system problem. Either way, the battery needs to be recharged and tested.
If the battery is low, the next logical step might be to try starting the engine with another battery or a charger. If the engine cranks normally and roars to life, you can assume the problem was a dead battery, or a charging problem that allowed the battery to run down. If the battery accepts a charge and tests okay, checking the output of the charging system should help you identify any problems there.
A "http://www.aa1car.com/library/2002/cm10220.htm" that is working properly should produce a charging voltage of somewhere around 14 volts at idle with the lights and accessories off. When the engine is first started, the charging voltage should rise quickly to about two volts above base battery voltage, then taper off, leveling out at the specified voltage. The exact charging voltage will vary according to the battery's state of charge, the load on the electrical system, and temperature. The lower the temperature, the higher the charging voltage. The higher the temperature, the lower the charging voltage. The charging range for a typical alternator might be 13.9 to 14.4 volts at 80 degrees F, but increase to 14.9 to 15.8 volts at subzero temperatures.
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Many times one or more diodes in the alternator rectifier assembly will have failed, causing a drop in the unit's output. The alternator will still produce current, but not enough to keep the battery fully charged. This type of failure will show up on an oscilloscope as one or more missing humps in the alternator waveform. Most charging system analyzers can detect this type of problem.
thanks,please rate the solution positively.

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1 Answer

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First tell me why you don't think it's charging.
Because of the voltage reading you are getting at the battery terminals? The range you want is between 13.6v to 14.2v. The higher the voltage the lower the amps. and true the other way, the lower the voltage the higher the amps. If you get a reading of 13.6v or lower, the alt is nearing or at max output. An alt can only run at maximum for around fifteen minutes and it will start slinging solder from overheating. It's a good indication the battery is either totally dead or junk. Charging above 14.2 the alternater is running wide open and is only putting out high volts which will cause the battery to boil , in turn destroying it. This is a bad alternater. All alternaters have integrated voltage regulater with the exception of ver few of the earlier ones. You cannot test an alternater by removing a battery cable to see if the engine keeps running without taking great risk of damaging the alt, regulator. So tell me why you feel it isn't charging. Remember an alt is not made to charge dead batteries. Their sole function is to maintain the battery charge. Without a battery, the alt won't last 10 seconds.
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