Question about 2003 Ford Focus

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I need to identify a part....

It plugs into the fuel rail and the fuel line. there's another hose on top, which I THINK is a vacuum line, and a 3 prong electrical connector. the part that plugs into the fuel line has a blue washer on it, and it's held on with 2 10mm hex head screws... AutoZone, O'Reily's, and Napa had no clue what the part is, or where I could get it replaced other than 'check with Ford'... sooooo... help?!

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  • yadayada
    yadayada May 11, 2010

    This is an emission/fuel injection monitoring related part, you can't buy it any place but Ford, sorry.

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Sounds like a pressure regulator to me but more tha likely a dealer item.

Posted on Dec 10, 2008

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2 Answers

Fuel pressure 1998 jeep grand cherokee 4.0 L V6


You should have a test port on the Fuel Supply rail, use a tool from a local auto parts "Tool Loaner program" where you can borrow tools for free,w/a deposit of course,then follow the steps provided;

MPI Fuel System Pressure Test

The MPI fuel system used in vehicles equipped with a 4.OL engine employs a vacuum balanced pressure regulator. Fuel pressure should be approximately 55-69 kPa (8-10 psi) lower with the vacuum line attached to the regulator than with the vacuum line disconnected. System fuel should be 214 kPa (31 psi) with the vacuum line connected to the regulator and 269 kPa (39 psi) with the vacuum line disconnected. CAUTION: Some fuel may be discharged when connecting fuel gauge to fuel rail.
  1. Connect a 0-414 kPa (0-60 psi) fuel pressure gauge to test port pressure fitting on fuel rail (Fig. 7).
  2. Remove vacuum line from pressure regulator.
  3. Start the vehicle.
  4. Note gauge reading. With vacuum line disconnected, fuel pressure should be approximately 269 kPa (39 psi).
  5. Connect vacuum line to pressure regulator. Note gauge reading. Fuel pressure should be approximately 214 kPa (31 psi).
  6. If fuel pressure is not approximately 55-69 kPa (8-10 psi) higher with vacuum line removed from regulator, inspect pressure regulator vacuum line for leaks, kinks or blockage. CAUTION: Fuel pressure will rise to as much as 655 kPa (95 psi) when the fuel return tine is pinched shut, shut engine down immediately after pinching oft fuel return line.
  7. If fuel pressure is low, momentarily pinch shut the hose section of the fuel return line. If fuel pressure remains low, inspect the fuel supply line, fuel filter, and fuel rail inlet for blockage. If fuel pressure rises replace fuel pressure regulator.
  8. If fuel pressure is above specifications, inspect the fuel return line for kinks and blockage.

Capacity Test

  1. Remove the cap from the pressure test port in the fuel rail.
  2. Connect a 0-414 kPa (0-60 psi) fuel pressure gauge to the pressure fitting on the fuel rail (Fig. 7).
  3. Start the vehicle. Pressure should be approxi- mately 214 kPa (31 psi) with the vacuum hose connected to the pressure regulator and 269 kPa (39 psi) with the vacuum hose removed from the pressure regulator.
  4. If the pressure is not to specification, check the following before replacing the fuel pressure regulator:
  • 4a - Inspect the fuel supply and return lines/hoses for kinks or restricting bends
  • 4b - Check the fuel pump flow rate. A good fuel pump will deliver at least 1 liter of fuel per minute with the fuel return line pinched off. If the fuel pump does not pump adequately, then inspect the fuel system for a plugged fuel filter or fuel pump inlet filter (sock). Fuel pump flow rate can be done by connecting one end of an old A/C gauge hose to the fuel test port on the fuel rail and inserting the other end of the hose into a container of at least 1 liter capacity. Run the fuel pump by installing a jumper wire into diagnostic connector terminals D1-5 and D1-6. Be sure to pinch off the fuel return line or most of the fuel will be returned to the fuel tank.

May 19, 2014 | 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee

2 Answers

How to check fuel pressure 91 geo storm gsi


1.6L DOHC (same way as the ISUZU impulse ) same car.
4XE1 engine twin cam.
has MPI injection with fuel rail, regulator and loop
disconnecting the feed line and stuffing it with guage only does 1 of 5 tests. done on MPI. it does JUST the shut test.
the correct way it to check it at the filter or rail tests ports on most cars.
in some cases you must add it.
they sell banjo fittings with test ports at summit racing dot com.
so the first question on all MPI cars, is , where is the stock fittings.
other cars the rail has a schrader valve or a plugged hole to add one. (test port) did you look first for this?
to test the FPR, unplug the vacuum line running
and pressure will jump up 6 to 10 psi.
this simulates wide open throttle pressure, a key fact in getting full power from engine, i test cranking presssure, idle, 3000rpm
and wot pressures to be sure the PFR is working, not just the pump.



the spec at the rail is.

Late 1986 to 1993 I-TEC MPFI system (after VIN 0908197)
Regulator vacuum line connected-36 psi
Regulator vacuum line disconnected-42.5 to 45 psi

the shunt test can hit 60 pis easy. do so for only 5sec.
as this stresses the pump .

the only rail drawing , shows no fittings (cheap buggers)



not even a cheap plug...

24024302-wtht4tipiqsxmsfaksxjx4vs-4-0.jpg below is the twin cam, 1.6L
buy a TEE feeting, and put it at upper, red arrow.
use clamps rated for fuel injection, not chezzy screw band clamps as seen on carb cars. use the correct parts.
or you will get leak and it will not be pretty,
the filter as at 14 ID. this is the pressure feed side of the loop.
30 to 60psi , so all parts must be rated over 60, psi, (100psi is a nice goal)

24024302-wtht4tipiqsxmsfaksxjx4vs-4-1.jpg

now the words directly from the IMPULSE FSM.

Testing
  1. Relieve the fuel pressure.
  2. Disconnect the fuel line near the engine and install fuel pressure gauge T-connector in the line.
  3. Connect the fuel pressure gauge to the T-connector.
  4. Start the engine and check the fuel pressure, it should be:
  5. 4XC1-Turbo and DOHC I-Mark, G200Z Impulse: 35.6 psi with the vacuum hose of the pressure regulator disconnected and plugged. 28.4 psi with the vacuum hose connected and at idle.
  6. 4ZC1-Turbo, 4ZD1 Impulse and 4ZE1 engine: 42.6 psi with the vacuum hose at the pressure regulator disconnected and plugged. 35.6 psi with the vacuum hose connected at idle. Disconnect the VSV before checking pressure.
  7. V6 engine: 9.13 psi at the fuel pressure line after the fuel filter.
  8. 4XE1 SOHC and DOHC engine: Flow test, disconnect the hose from the EFI fuel feed line at the engine and place in a suitable container. Apply battery voltage to the fuel pump. Pump should supply 1/4 quart (0.24L) within 15 seconds. Pressure test, connect a pressure gauge in the fuel pressure line after the fuel filter, located at the driver's side frame rail. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the pressure regulator. Apply battery voltage to the pump. After the pump stabilizes, the pressure should be 35-38 psi (245-256 kPa) and hold steady.

Apr 06, 2014 | Geo Storm Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Have a 2004 grand Android v6 replaced fuel pump Android fuel filter. The next thing must be the fuel pressure regulator were is it Android were do I check the pressure at Android were is the fuel rail...


the fuel test port is right behind the power steering pump. You will see a black plastic cap right behind one of the power steering lines. Remove the cap and you will see the schreader valve.

The fuel pressure regulator is on the drivers side of the engine next to the throttle body right where the throttle cable is attached. there will be a vacuum hose on the top of it a steel line coming out of the bottom and there will be a single bolt holding it to the fuel rail. Remove the vacuum hose from the top, start the engine, and see if fuel comes out. If it does than the regulator is leaking and needs to be replaced.

Feb 10, 2012 | 2004 Pontiac Grand Am

1 Answer

@I think I have a fuel leak on my 92 Chev Cavalier, I think it is on the top of the motor but not sure, but I can smell gas and I am not getting very good gas miledge


look on the fuel rail(top of engine metal lines that connect to the fuel injectors)on the fuel
rail you will see a valve. there will be a fuel line screwed into the valve & a vacuum hose
it may also have a schaider valve on it for testing fuel pressure
this is the fuel pressure regulator. remove the vacuum hose & see if it is wet/gas
replace the valve if gas is in vacuum hose

its also a good idea to change the oil & filter because excess gas will end up in engine oil

Jul 06, 2011 | 1992 Chevrolet Cavalier

1 Answer

How to replace fuel pressure regulating valve


1991-94 Models - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
  1. Remove the air intake tube and resonator assembly.
  2. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure.
  3. Remove the bolts from the fuel line clip.
  4. Using a 15 / 16 in. (24mm) backup wrench to prevent damage to the inlet port and bracket, disconnect the fuel inlet and return lines from the pressure regulator/fuel rail assembly.
If difficulty is encountered accessing the fuel return line nut, loosen and/or remove the fuel supply and rail attachment fasteners.
  1. Disengage the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose.
zjlimited_1134.jpg

Fig. 6: Disengage the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose

zjlimited_1135.jpg

Fig. 7: Use a suitable wrench to loosen ...

  1. Remove the regulator assembly attaching screw, then remove the regulator assembly. Plug the regulator port in the fuel rail with a clean rag to prevent system contamination.
zjlimited_1136.jpg

Fig. 8: ... and remove the mounting screw from the pressure regulator/fuel rail assembly

zjlimited_1137.jpg

Fig. 9: Remove the fuel pressure regulator assembly from the fuel rail
  1. Do not remove the O-ring from the retainer in the pressure regulator fuel outlet, unless it is damaged and requires replacing. Always remove and discard the O-ring from the fuel inlet.
To install:
  1. Lubricate the new fuel inlet O-ring and, if necessary, the new outlet O-ring with clean engine oil, then install the O-ring(s) in the pressure regulator assembly.
  2. Position the regulator assembly to the fuel rail. Coat the threads of the attaching bolt with Loctite® 242 or an equivalent threadlock, then install the bolt and tighten to 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
  3. Connect the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose.
  4. Connect the fuel inlet and return lines, then tighten the lines to 133 inch lbs. (15 Nm) using a backup wrench to prevent port damage.
  5. Cycle the ignition switch to prime the fuel system, then start the engine and check for fuel leaks.
  6. Turn the ignition OFF and install the air intake tube and resonator assembly.

Hope this helps (remember to rate and comment this answer).

Apr 29, 2011 | 1993 Saturn SL2

2 Answers

Miss firing and passing raw fuel through exhast , replaced 1 coil , all new plugs and new plug wires


check the fuel pressure regulator... it is the small round chrome cylinder shaped thing on the fuel rail...unplug the vacuum hose from the top of it and see if there is fuel in the hose if there is you will need to replace the fuel pressure regulator.
hope this helps

Mar 11, 2011 | 1997 Lincoln Continental

1 Answer

Where do I check the rubber hoses for a vacuum leak for the fuel rail pressure sensor. In other words where is it located? Thanks, Mike From previous post for code P0191 <<The fuel rail...


the fuel rail pressure sensor is located in between the high pressure line and the fuel rail on the passenger side. It will have 1 vacuum hose and one connector going to it.

Nov 30, 2010 | 2006 Ford Five Hundred

1 Answer

How do you install injectors in a chevy s-10 pick-up?


Removal & Installation

8205896.gif
Exploded view of the fuel rail and injector mounting


Take care when servicing the fuel rail assembly to prevent dirt or contaminants from entering the fuel system. ALL openings in the fuel lines and passages should be capped or plugged while disconnected.
  1. Before disassembly, clean the fuel rail assembly with a spray type cleaner such as AC Delco® X-30A, or equivalent. After removal, DO NOT immerse the fuel rail in liquid solvent.
  2. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure and disconnect the negative battery cable.
  3. Remove the air intake duct, as necessary for access.
  4. Tag and disengage the fuel injector electrical connectors.
  5. Disengage the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line, then tag and disengage all other necessary vacuum hoses.
  6. Loosen and remove the fuel rail retaining bolts.
  7. If necessary to remove the fuel rail assembly completely from the engine compartment, or to prevent stressing and damaging the fuel lines, disconnect the fuel lines from the rail assembly.
  8. Carefully lift the fuel rail assembly and fuel injectors from the intake.
  9. Carefully release and separate the fuel injectors from the rail assembly.
  10. Remove and discard ALL old O-rings from the fuel injectors and, if disconnected, the fuel lines.
To install:
  1. Lightly coat the new O-rings with clean engine oil, then position them to the injectors and, if applicable, fuel fittings.
  2. Install the injectors to the fuel rail assembly.
  3. Carefully install the fuel rail and injectors to the intake manifold. Make sure the injectors are properly seated in their bores, but DO NOT force them into position.
  4. Install and tighten the rail retaining bolts to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm).
  5. If removed, connect the fuel lines to the rail assembly and secure the fittings.
  6. Engage the fuel pressure regulator and any other vacuum lines, as noted during removal.
  7. Engage the injector electrical connectors.
  8. Connect the negative battery cable and cycle the ignition switch (without attempting to start the engine) in order to pressurize the fuel system, then check for leaks.
  9. Install the air intake duct.

Apr 25, 2010 | 1992 Chevrolet S-10

1 Answer

Injectors for 1989 honda accord removing and installing


Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal (if you have an anti-theft radio, make sure you have the code to reactivate it.).
Relieve the fuel pressure (take the gas cap off, and loosen service bolt at the top of the fuel filter; you will need two wrenches for that, on to hold the fitting and the other to loosen the nut; make sure you have a towel or something to catch the gas spill). You could, instead, just SLOWLY loosen the pressure line at the right end of the fuel rail (facing the car).
Remove the air cleaner assembly (take the top off, take out the filter, detach all hoses, take out retaining bolts, and remove).
Unplug the injector connectors (CAREFULLY detach the clips first; just pry them back out of their notches; try not to pop them off and drop one, they are hard to find once dropped).
Detach the vacuum hose and fuel return hose from the fuel pressure regulator (left end of the fuel rail, if you are facing the vehicle)
Detach the two ground cables from the intake manifold (in the middle, under one nut)
Detach the fuel lines (already did left one; detach the pressure line at the right end of the fuel rail).
Remove the mounting nuts (four) and detach the fuel rail and injectors from the intake manifold.
Remove the injectors from the fuel rail and remove and discard the seal rings (top and bottom; the second ring down on the top is the cushion ring and does not need to be replaced, but it is recommended. Most kits contain them)
Coat the new o-rings with fresh oil and slip them on the injectors (or, if you are replacing the injectors they probably came with o-rings on them. Just coat them with oil)
Place each injector into its corresponding bore in the fuel rail (doesn’t matter which is which if you are replacing them all).
Coat each new bottom seal with oil and press it into the injector bores in the intake manifold.
Install the injector and fuel rail assembly on the intake manifold. Make sure the centerline of the electrical connector on each injector is aligned with its corresponding mark on the intake manifold (little arrows, I think). Tighten the fuel rail nuts to the specified torque (17 lbs)
Reverse removal procedure for the rest.
After all is done, turn the ignition on, but do not start the car. This will build up pressure in your fuel lines. Do that two or three times, then check to see if you have any leakage around the injector, or other fittings, before you start the car.
Then you’re done.
Hope this gets you through it.

Nov 08, 2009 | 1989 Honda Accord 4 Door

1 Answer

1993 toyota pickup


Hi! The fuel return hose is the rubber hose that comes from the side of the fuel pressure regulator, the metal thing on the pass side of the engine fuel rail; it screws into the fuel rail, and has a vacuum line at the top, and a big tube sticking out of the side. The rubber line then connects to a metal line, which runs towards the back of the engine. Repost if you need more info.

Oct 09, 2008 | 1993 Toyota Xtracab

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