Where is the adjustment slot on the rear drum of a 2006 equinox.

Question edited for clarity, full ' year make model'.
Question moved to sub category.

Some great videos

https://www.google.com/search?q=2006+Chevrolet+EQUINOX%2C+remove+rear+bumper

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Sounds like brake shoes are knocking. Try backing up while pumping brakes or using the emergency brake a few times to tighten up shoes. If those don't work you may have to manually adjust shoes with star wheel or maybe defective (out of round) drum

You need to use a bearing press to get it out and the new one in. You can try to hammer it out with a piece of pipe if you can catch onto the lip. Sometimes wheel bearings get very stuck and if it scores or damages the drum on the way out you may need to get a new drum. If you don't have the tools you might be able to rent or borrow a press from a shop or auto parts store. If you take it to a brake shop and have them press out the bearing and put in the new one it shouldn't cost that much.

well there usually is an access port in the back of the drum that you can adjust

but many times theres just a lip thats formed on the rotor and can make it hard to remove the drum. I usually take a hammer and smack the **** out of the drum...like as hard as you can, many times that frees it up. you def wont hurt anything by trying that first. sometimes theres little slots in the drum that accept a bolt...you can just scew the bolt in and it will push the drum off. hope that helps you

pads go over a rotor, you can buy a tool to spread the pads meaning pushing the caliper piston back. if the rotor is pitted or has a lip around the outside it needs to be refaced which is done at a machine shop. i myself use a big old C clamp instead of buying a tool. be careful not to put sideways pressure on the piston or you will be buying a new caliper. i take the cap off the master cylinder when i am pushing fluid out of the caliper.

shoes go inside a drum, you get the drum turned at a machine shop, and you move the adjuster wheel down to the minimum and slowly back it out to where the drum just does not contact the shoes when put on. the shoes will settle in correctly when you push on the brake pedal so you may have to do this adjustment a few times. in the olden days the adjuster was accessible from the inside through a slot in the backing plate and you used a special adjuster or a bent screwdriver to adjust the shoes out.

good luck

1989-97 Vehicles Drum Brakes (Let me know if you need the Disc Brake Instructions)

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
   
2. Remove the rear wheel and tire assemblies, then remove the brake drum.
   
   
   
   
   
   Fig. 4: View of the drum brake assembly with the drum removed
   
   
   
   
   
   
   Fig. 5: Use a commercially available brake spray to clean the
   components before removal
   
   
   
   
3. Install Brake Cylinder Clamp D81L-1103-B or equivalent, over the ends of the
   rear wheel cylinder.
   
4. Disconnect the parking brake cable from the parking brake lever.
   
   
   
   
   
   Fig. 6: Detach the parking brake cable and conduit from the
   parking brake lever
   
   
   
   
5. Remove the 2 brake shoe hold-down retainers, springs and pins.
   
6. Spread the brake shoes over the piston shoe guide slots. Lift the brake
   shoes, springs and adjuster off the backing plate as an assembly. Be careful not
   to bend the adjusting lever.
   
   
   
   
   
   Fig. 7: Lift the brake shoes, springs and adjuster off the
   backing plate as an assembly
   
   
   
   
7. Remove the adjuster spring. To separate the shoes, remove the retracting
   springs.
   
8. Remove the parking brake lever retaining clip and spring washer. Remove the
   lever from the pin.
   
   
   
   
   
   Fig. 8: Drum brake components - 1995 vehicle shown
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   Fig. 9: Exploded view of the drum brake components, removed
   from the vehicle
   
   To install:
   
   
9. Apply a light coating of caliper slide grease to the backing plate brake
   shoe contact areas.
   
10. Apply a light coat of lubricant to the threaded areas of the adjuster screw
    and socket. Assemble the brake adjuster with the stainless steel washer. Turn
    the socket all the way down on the screw, then back off 1?2 turn.
    
11. Install the parking brake lever to the trailing shoe with the spring washer
    and a new retaining clip. Crimp the clip to securely retain the lever.
    
12. Position the trailing shoe on the backing plate and attach the parking brake
    cable. Position the leading shoe on the backing plate and attach the lower
    retracting spring to the brake shoes.
    
13. Install the adjuster assembly to the slots in the brake shoes. The socket
    end must fit into the wider slot in the leading shoe. The slot in the adjuster
    nut must fit into the slots in the trailing shoe and parking brake lever.
    
    
    
    
    
    Fig. 10: Install the adjuster assembly in the slots in the
    brake shoes
    
    
    
    
    
14. Install the adjuster lever on the pin on the leading shoe and to the slot in
    the adjuster socket.
    
15. Install the upper retracting spring in the slot on the trailing shoe and the
    slot in the adjuster lever. The adjuster lever should contact the star and
    adjuster assembly.
    
16. Install the brake shoe anchor pins, springs and retainers. Remove the brake
    cylinder clamp tool
    
17. Install the brake drum, wheel and tire assemblies and lower the vehicle.
    
18. Apply the brakes several times while backing up the vehicle. After each
    stop, the vehicle must be moved forward.
    
    

You can turn a rotor once or twice but each time you do, you are removing metal...The rotors today are really not thick enough to put up with too much of that before they are too thin to be useful. In removing metal they will not dissipate heat well and are then more prone to warping. I suggest you replace them and make sure that the caliper slides are well lubricated and the pistons are not binding. The rear adjusters are designed so that they adjust themselves with normal use and unless the adjusters are frozen they should be where they should be. Most don't have a provision to do any adjustments manually, so if there is a problem, you will need to take the rear brakes apart and check to make sure everything is free.

1. Raise and support the rear of the vehicle on jackstands.
   
2. Remove the wheels and tire assemblies.
   
3. Remove the brake shoe adjusting slot cover from the rear of backing plate.
   
4. Insert a thin tool through the adjusting slot and hold the adjusting lever away from the star wheel.
   
5. Insert an adjusting tool and back off the star wheel by prying downward with the tool.
   
6. Remove the center hub dust cover, nut, washer, brake drum, hub and wheel bearings.
   

To install:

1. Inspect the brake lining and drum for wear.
   
2. Inspect the wheel cylinder for leakage. Service as required.
   
3. Remove, clean, inspect and repack the wheel bearings.
   
4. Install the brake drum and tighten the hub nut to 20-25 ft. lbs. (27-34 Nm), then back off the nut until bearing pressure is released.
   
5. Retighten the nut finger tight, align the cotter pin hole and install the cotter pin.
   
6. Adjust the rear brakes as described in the beginning of this section.
   

Removing the rear drum adjusting hole cover plug

You need to de-adjust your rear brakes and/or slacken off the park brake cable to remove the drum as the chances are the drum has a wear lip that the shoes are getting hung up on. ( first make sure there isn't a little retaining screw holding the drum on !..visible with the wheel removed)

Hiya...
Most rear brake-shoe design take some time to adjust than disc brakes...
If you have a special brake adjustment tool that your local automotive store sells, get this tool and pull out the rubber grommet plug, insert the brake adjustment tool until you 'feel' or hear the sound of 'skipping' on the brake self-adjuster spool inside as you wiggle /adjust the tool inside....(push it inside to get a firm feel that you can 'spin' it)
Try to push the tool downward or upward to check if that'll spin the brake self-adjuster part smaller to allow the brake shoes to 'shrink' which should allow you easy removal of the rear brake drum as you wiggle it out.

Be sure not to breathe in toxic brake dust upon successful brake drum removal.