Thanks for the advise on torching the plugs and re-tapping.
I may do it that way but since I dont have access to a torch, I may take it in to a shop, but I was wondering how much work it would be for me to take off the manifold and take it in to a local welding place. I am sure I can re-tap it and put in new bolts myself.
Since I am trying to do this the cheapest way possible:
How many bolts would I have to take off and how long would it take?
Can I do it myself? (I am definitely not a mechanic)
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Re: taking off the manifold in my driveway.
On a 1995 sierra, taking of manifold, exhaust I assume. If it's on the passanger side you might be able to do it. It all depends if there will be any brackets in your way. If so, you should take it in. If you do decide to do it yourslef you'll have to take off 3 lead down pipe bolts, and 6 exhaust bolts if no brackets. Where as the drivers side, take it in. You'll have to remove power steering pump, ac, brackets, and like the power steering pump takes a special tool to remove pully to get to bolts.
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Use a penetrating oil, then tap with a hammer (wood in between) and leave overnight. If still stubborn heat up a little with a blow torch. Put two nuts on the stud and tighten against each other. Using the lower one then undo.
coil 3 on early engines it is under the inlet manifold you have to remove it. you should also change all 3 plugs whilst manifold off the plugs can cause coil failure.we at the dealer I worked for changed all 6plugs and coils on jaguars advise, my advise change coils and plugs under manifold only the other 3 are easy access
Most of the time when an engine backfires it is due to the timing being off or there is a severe vacuum leak at the intake manifold. You can locate the leak (vacuum) by taking a propane torch (DO NOT LIGHT!!) Open torch valve (1/4 turn) And slowly take torch around intake manifold. Wherever torch is and causes increase in R P M's There is where your leak is. Hope this helps
I would be inclined to run the tap in first before drilling as this might just clean up the threads enough to be able to refit the sensor. when tapping remember the manifold might be very hard due to heat so be carefull not to break the tap. If that doesnt work then you use to be able to get thread inserts (use to get them for stripped out spark plugs) but I dont know if you still can. You could always try a scrap yard (dont know where you are but in UK they are called scrap yards) for a second hand manifold.
If it is accessable ,use heat,a small bottle torch,now,you can also use a chisel,and cut into the side of the nut,and then turn the chisel side ways and try and tap the nut around,counter clock wise to remove,if this was helpful,please rate,thank you,and pb blaster is real good to use if it is rusted.
The starter is located under the intake manifold. Remove the intake manifold and all necessary components to access it.It is advisable that while replacing the starter also replace all the gaskets with new gaskets .This helps. Thanks. you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.
Using a torch of any kind will be extremely difficult for filling a stub hole. Even trying to tig it would be quite a challenge. If you can get it clean enough," PC-7" or "All-Metal" filler putty will work. The metal MUST be totally grease & oil free. Use carbutator cleaner or some other good grease cutter and a small round brush. Pipe cleaners with stiff bristles work well. Use a pin or small pick to reach into the remaining threads to break up any solids. Work the filler into the threads and push a hard aluminum rod into the hole. The rod must be sliightly scored for the filler to grab on to it. Give it a full 24 hours to cure. Sand it flat, center punch, drill & tap. The new hole will be as good if not stronger than the origiinal. About 2 hours, not including the cure time.
Bolts are screwed into the manifold (actually studs) Best thing to do is to have someone heat them with a torch and get the nuts free. If the studs are in really bad shape, you will have to remove them from manifold and replace them (usually a torch job as well) Not a job for a burns o matic...need a real torch for this one! Or, just snap them off and remove manifolds to fix them.
Stud removal can be either very hard or easy. Just depends on how hard access is to the stud. You will need to center punch the broken stud. Then use a very good high speed steel drill bit to drill a pilot hole in to the stud. Tap an easy out in to the hole you drilled into the stud and hopefully it will break loose. Worse case scenario is you might have to remove the head and use a torch to heat it for removal or actually use the torch to blow it out of the hole. If you must remove the head and need to use a torch to remove the stud send the head out to a good machine shop. These shops have people there that are qualified to do this process. To much heat can damage the threads in the hole or ruin the head. Good luck. If you ahve more questions please feel free to ask.
torch them till they glow and use a pair of vice grip pliers to remove them and buy a new set of bolts from your local parts store, be sure and have a tap ready to clean out the threads after you remove the bolts -jeff