The poor performance of the car makes these faults to come up and undermine the working of the engine. In this case it seems that the fault seems related with an electric circuit, possible there is no trigger from the ignition unit or there is fauty timing settings. So to start off we need to check from the fuel tank. Splutering happens even if the fuel contains impurities and specially water. If so this can come up with the pumping when the tank gets empty and produce misfiring, splutter and jerks. So a check on the fuel filter will confirm this as it will be seen, if so remove and clean tank and change the filter. We then come to the fuel pump as the fuel mixing and pressure is determined in this section. You need to have the pump calibrated if the pressure at the injector is low. Then we must check with the electrics.Since you have changed a whole sett of spares it is important to check the spark intensity .Remove all plugs to check gap and condition of plugs. The black plug indication will confirm that the performance is bad whereas a fully fired plug without deposits must be the ideal view. Check the HT coil and the HT wires, if the intensity is bad this must be swapped and checked to confirm. DO NOT CHANGE any part without a confirmation by trying with a replacement from another vehicle or friend. Finally the LT trigger to the coils must be checked be it from the platinum points or an electronic ignition unit. The voltage of the trigger must be high to give the best HT output. Now use a strobe to check the Timing on the engine. Adjust if needed to see the TOP DEAD CENTER-TDC- mark. If there is valve noise make sure that the tappets are set properly so that the valves seat firmly for the best compression. Also check compression of engine if there is imbalance on the engine or reduced power. Thank you for using Fixya
Have you had the cat converter checked to see if it is plugged. The symptoms your describing about not having any power and reading what you have done to correct the issue leads me to lean towords a plugged converter or possibly the engine valves. Whats the milage on the engine and has it ever had any valve work done, and has the cat converter ever been changed? Most common causes of internal catalyst failure is due to unburned fuel, lead, phosphorous or engine coolant contamination. These contaminants can begin to clog the catalytic converter and restrict exhaust flow through the system. When this occurs, the back pressure of the exhaust builds up between the exhaust manifold and the converter. Because the exhaust system is not allowed to breathe well, engine stalls, decreased fuel efficiency, lack of acceleration and overall engine performance are compromised. Back pressure can be tested from the tailpipe of the exhaust system by determining if enough exhaust flow is passing through it. If you plug the tailpipe with a safety glove on your hand and a thick protective rag and then the engine dies, you have restricted exhaust flow. Since many components comprise the entire exhaust system, this test does not necessarily condemn the converter. An exhaust pressure tester could be used to determine catalyst failure. Drilling a small hole in the pipe in front of the converter and inserting the tester tube to determine if pressure is present would be the next step. If pressure is present in the pipe, then the exhaust flow is not passing through the converter as it should be. The oxygen sensor is one of the more common causes of catalyst failure. This happens over a period of time, but the sensor's responsibility to monitor the air-to-fuel ratio expelled from the combustible engine. When it fails, the computer to the vehicle fails to register the information and make the necessary adjustments to the ratio. This can cause either a rich or lean fuel mixture, which will eventually cause internal catalyst failure. Too much fuel will create too much heat inside the converter and cause the precious metals to melt. This will lead to internal breakdown of the converter and most likely cause clogging of the exhaust flow. Too much air will allow undesirable contaminants and pollutants to slowly clog the passage way of the converter as the particles affix themselves to the precious metals.
Spark plug misfires, failed oxygen sensors, leaded gasoline and oil or coolant contaminants are all contributing factors in breaking down the internal catalyst.
What is the milage on the motor? What about the valves on the engine have they been tested for compression? A very easy test to get done it is done by screwing in a guage into the spark plug hole and turning the engine over to read the compression. I suspect then that you have some compression leaking past your valves.
I see you also had the injectors cleaned. Clean injectors can still be bad as the wear out over time and need replaced eventually. Not a hard repair if that needs to be done as well. Let me know how your progressing on this and we can get it better.
I will be available for any follow up issues you may have with this so no hurry just let me know and we can continue. All you need to do is reply to any of my messages to get back with me. The milage is about correct for you to start seeing compression issues on that model and year. Also I don't know the engine you have in that car, 4 or 6 cylinder and if you know the displacement that would also help but not neccessary. 1.5 or 1.6 or the 2.0 ltr?
Was there an issue with my help? I see you dropped me for another. I was waiting to hear from you on the issue of compression and you did not get back to me. I don't stay awake 24hrs a day so I can only reply when I am here to help. I also offers my assistance at any time you need a follow up, don't know hat else I can do to make you happy but if you still wish my assistance please feel free to get back to me.
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oh yea that is something else that has been done muffler shop said catalytic converter was good
107000 miles and will check compression as soon as i can and will get back to you.
6 cyl its the 5m-ge
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