Question about 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse

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Replaced car dyes...

I had to replace my battery...Now when ever I come to a complete stop, my car dyes. At first I thought it was a faulty new I replaced it again...but it still does it. It starts fine...stays idling normal...but when I start driving it, as soon as I come to a stop, it dyes.??? It never did this until I replaced the battery. What's up?

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  • americanhome Sep 21, 2008

    Relpaced ign wires, cap, rotor, EGR, valve cover gaskets, vacuum hoses, manifold gaskets- still idles irradically, from 1100 to 700 rpm, up and down. Removed and cleaned IAC motor, helped a little, but didnt solve problem. PEOPLE- CHECK BASE IDLE SET SCREW (BISS). Adjust it slowly- there also may be a leak in the BISS o-ring. Im going to replace the IAC motor for $ 400- INSANE RIPOFF !!!



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Clean the trottle valve and idle speed control valve to cure this problem.

Posted on Sep 21, 2008


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1 Answer

What would cause a oil leak under pressure between the timing cover and the block?

on most cars
get it clean, drive around the block
then look, the gasket that leaks is the cause. replace it.
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or use the UV dye and lamp tool, for $15 and find it more easy.
2 way there are. only.
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Replace the battery cables. They can corrode under the insulation and you cannot see it. Make sure the terminals are clean.

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01 sunfire battery is not charging

I had a similar problem once and it turned out to be the ignition coil. Ran fine cold but once everything was heated up it broke a connection and went dead. I wonder if you might be having the same thing but in the alternator? Just a thought.

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How to repair evaporator system in 2004 Saturn ion

I have a car that has a leaky evaporator coil, too. Here's what I have found:

A leaking evaporator coil is usually replaced. On most vehicles, this is a labor intensive job requiring complete dis-assembly of the dashboard to gain access to the coil. Your particular vehicle *may* be different.

Some companies offer products specifically made to seal relatively small leaks in the refrigerant system. Independent reviews that I have read show mixed results and some indicate use of some of these products can cause greater harm to the system. Some manufacturers claim their product along with a system recharge is all that needs to be done. Others require replacement of the filter and dryer so that the air and moisture is able to be completely eradicated from the system, this is because once system has been depressurized due to the leak, air and moisture eventually enter. That air and moisture must be purged before running the system because water can not be compressed and will create issues in the A/C compressor. It is important to note that some refrigerants are marketed with a dye to help locate leaks and even some with a "leak stopper". These products are fine to use. It's the stand-alone leak stopping products that I'm talking about here. You should try the refrigerants with a leak stopped / dye. They can seal small, slow leaks effectively. If you need to recharge annually - that may be the way to go. Large leaks that empty in as little as a couple weeks or a month will probably not be stopped with these products.

For these reasons, I have opted to spend money on replacement of my evaporator coil, rather than risk damaging the entire system with a "stop leak type product". Here's search result page for "stop leak" products that you should review.

Good luck!

Mar 01, 2012 | 2004 Saturn ION

1 Answer

History: 2 days ago the battery light came on. Car ran fine that evening. The next morning. The tach stopped working. a minute later the speedometer stopped working. Then, another minute later, the car...

Replacing the fuse the first time was the right move, becuase it could have been a fluke that it blew. Replacing it again and again was not! You should have found out EVERYTHING that the #2 fuse controlled and verified that the components weren't pulling excessive amperage (shorted condition). By replacing the fuse over and over, you might have made the problem worse by subjecting good components to something that was shorted.

BTW next time pick the oldest guy at autozone to help you, if the counter help knew their stuff they would have told you the same thing I just did!

Sep 04, 2011 | 2000 Ford Contour

1 Answer

Battery light and brake light stay on .I started engine and disconnected the negative and it died immediately .1993 altima

you need to replace the alternator, that will take care of the battery light, and dyeing when removing the cable... replace that and we will go from there on your brake light issue.
hope this helps

Jun 28, 2011 | 1993 Nissan Altima

1 Answer

Just replaced the ac compressor, the ac was blowing cold air for about a month and this past weekend it stopped. What can it be?

This would be a slow leak. If you recharged your A/C system using over-the-counter DIY kit, it had dye in it. If a shop charged it, it should have dye as well. You can get an A/C leak detector kit for about $100 that comes with a UV lamp and some cool yellow light filter glasses that will make this dye light up bright green. The only way to know where the leak is, is by using this equipment. (Exception: Massive instant failure where all the dye blows concentrated into a small area).

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2 Answers

I thought it was the water pump that was leaking and needed replaced, but it not. We can see where it is collecting but not where it is organting from. Can you tell me what you think

check out the housing for the thermostat...check out the heater hoses where one connects to the thermostat housing, the other to the waterpump....just replaced one on a honda that was pin hole sized and nearly impossible to see....also check headgasket and intake manifold gaskets...good luck

Mar 22, 2010 | 2004 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

Battery -i keep getting my car jumped

Once you jump your car, does it run ok? Or do you always have to get a jump start? Have your local "Auto Zone" or parts place do a battery check for free - Go from there

Oct 15, 2009 | 2006 Kia Optima

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