This ken we have 86 toyota pickup and did change all front caliber and rear cyclinder shoes we tryto bleed brakes so there is no air pressure and we did check the mastercylinder and did replace that still no air pressure also still on floor pedal we try figure out pls help us out my email is email@example.com
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Standard is bleeding from the furthest wheel to the master cylinder. So, you first do the right rear wheel, then you do the driver side rear wheel, then move to the front passenger wheel and finally you do the front driver side.
your probably going to have to bleed the entire system.1st try & bleed the master cyl. basicly the same as you would bleed the front/rear brakes. pump pedal & hold while someone loosen the brake line on the master cyl. after m/c is bleed move to r/r,l/r,r/f,l/f wheels in that order. if you have abs brakes & you got air in the pump a scan tool may be needed to bleed properly.
If you have no e brake that tells me your problem is something to do w/rear brakes. Pull your re brakes back apart and make sure everything is seated properly. Sounds like you didn't adjust rear shoes out far enough. Double check rear adjustment THEN bleed again - rt rear -> lft rear ->rt frt -> lft frt.
The cyclinder costs about 10 bucks at the partds store and if you change it before the fluild gets on the shoes your done of course the shoes being worn out are the readon most cyclinders leak. Shoes cost about 25 bucks and if you pay someone to do the work they should reconmend that whatever you do to one side you should do to the other side. turn or replace the drums repalace the springs ( 10 bucks) replace both wheel cylinders, Bleed the bakes all the way around till theirs new fluild in the whole system. If you not handy working on brakes have somone who is help you or hire the work done. The life you might save could be your own.
Some Toyotas need to be cross-bled. You should also check your bleeder valves to make sure you tightened them securely. Look for leaks at the master cylinder and possibly a rear wheel cylinder. Re-bleed the system.
I assume the rear shoes where replaced,was this a problem before replacing the rear shoes?Adjust the rear shoes out to where the wheel drags just a littl when turning it by hand,then if you need to,bleed the brakes,bleed the master cylinder,then the right rear,left rear,then right front,and left front,do not run out of brake fluid during this proccess.
go to the rear of the vehicle and look just above the rear end, there is a load sensing porpotioning valve up there, there is a rod that connects the rod to the top of the rear end, if you have raised or lowered the vehicle than that rod needs to be adjusted,
the valve simply diverts fluid to and from the rear brakes depending on rear vehicle ride height, this is for proper stopping ability when the vehicle is loaded down or when it nose dives from a hard stop.
Pull adjusting lever cable upward, then release and ensure adjusting bolt rotates. If bolt does not rotate, check for improper installation of rear brakes.
Adjust strut to shortest possible length, then install drum.
Pull parking brake lever fully upward. Repeat process several times.
Remove drum, then check for proper clearance, Fig. 4. Clearance should be .024 inch. If clearance is not as specified, check parking brake system.
Install brake drum, then bleed and refill brake system.
Install wheel and tire assembly, then lower vehicle.
FRONT ROTORS & PADS
Remove cap and snap ring, Fig. 10, then remove cone washers with tapered punch.
Insert suitable length bolts into flange bolt holes, then tighten bolts evenly and remove flanges.
Remove free wheel hub cover and snap ring, then remove nut, spring washer and cone washer with suitable tapered punch.
Remove free wheel hub body and gasket.
Remove locknut, lock washer and adjusting nut.
Remove axle hub and brake disc as an assembly.
Remove oil seal and inner bearing from hub.
Reverse procedure to install. Torque adjusting nut to 43 ft. lbs., then back off nut. Torque nut to 18 ft. lbs. Using spring scale attached to hub bolt, check that preload is 1.4-12.6. Install lockwasher and locknut, if equipped. Torque locknut to 35 ft. lbs., and recheck preload. Secure lockwasher by bending one tab inward and one tab outward.
Raise and support front of vehicle, then remove tire and wheel assembly.
Remove clip and hole pins, Fig. 9.
Remove anti-rattle spring and shim(s) if equipped, then remove brake pads.
Lubricate caliper housing with suitable brake grease at pad contact points.