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you will have to take door panel off to access the door locks the usual damage from a slim is the retaining clips for the lock linkages gets disconnected or broken if broken most auto stores carry a replacement
I would check for a broken wire inside the flex boot from the body to the drivers door . B+ or a ground wire . The front passenger window has it's own power supply . The right & left rear window switches power through the driver master switch .
With the driver door open move the flex boot an try opening an closing windows ? Free wiring diagram's here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. year , make , model , engine size . Under system click on body & accessories ,then under subsystem click on power windows . Click the search button then the blue link . Check out some video's on youtube. on wire repair .
More than likely the door panel the switch sets in is broken not the switch, this is common. You will need to try and find a used panel in the right color. I suggest you use a used part search engine you can find by googling "used Buick/car parts request from".
The small popping noise was some component in the Window Operator Mechanism breaking - the cable may have snapped, a plastic pulley may have broken, a plastic cable guide may have broken - it could be anything.
The reason you can't see the Window Operator Motor or the track is that it is behind the moisture barrier - remove it by carefully peeling it back at the edges of the door frame (so that it can be re-adhered back to the same door frame location without adding adhesive/sealant).
When you get to the Operator, be prepared to have to drill out some number of aluminum rivets to remove the OEM Operator, and, when installing the new Window Operator Mechanism, you'll have to replace these rivets with your own Pop Rivets, or they can be replaced with small hardware store nuts/bolts/washers (mechanics choice). Have an assortment of both ready before you attempt your Window Operator Mechanism replacement.
If the broken component of your Driver's Door Window Operator Mechanism is actually a missing/broken rivet, then replacing that would fix the Window. But these rivets hardly ever fail - what fails is plastic components in the Window Operator Mechanism.
Same thing happened to my drivers side. I have a 1999 Ford Explorer XLT. Mechanic found a broken wire in the wiring boot that runs from the door to the body. Spliced wire back together. Fixed the problem.
Could be a couple of things: the first two apply ONLY to POWER WINDOWS:
1-window switch went bad (not common but it happens)
2-window motor only works one direction (even more rare, but still has happened)
3-window regulator defective(power windows-maybe broken cable or mechanism; manual crank window regulator-broken mechanism.
If you have power windows:
Do you hear the motor running or binding when trying to roll window down? bad regulator
No noise? switch or motor
You need to remove your door panel to see and access the interior operating components. When you get that far you'll most likely see something obviously broken.
Then you'll need to examine the regulator and see if it has a broken cable or other binding parts.
Not a big deal to replace the window motor or regulator, but requires a little patience and manual dexterity.
Same problem. I have a 2000 Suzuki Esteem GL. A year ago the driver's door handle broke. Heard a sound and then it was loose. Could not open it from outside. Had to open front passenger door, open the driver's door from inside and then go out again to enter from the driver's door. FRUSTRATING. My mechanic had to take the door apart to fix it. Just a week ago, my front passenger door died on me. Can't open it from outside nor inside. The door won't open. This is such a stupid problem that costs lots to repair. Never will buy a Suzuki again. Had too many problems with it (had to fix gas tank, doors that won't open, front axle...).