Car was running very rough. I pulled of the #3 wire and it made no change in the way the car ran and wire arced out the side. I put the wire back on and suddenly I have no spark at all to any cylinder. What might the problem be?
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Re: 94 toyota camry with no spark
Sounds like you may have an igniter problem....Make sure that there's no water anywhere in the system....That includes the distributor cap.... That comes off with three 8mm bolts....(Sometimes they fall out of the cap, once it's loose)
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1. Error Code 24. Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
Solution: Check the following:
- IAT Connector and wiring.
- Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
- Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
- ECM. 2. Rough Idling when the engine is hot. The following are the reasons due to which the engine can perform bad when it is hot.
- Fuel pump control circuit.
- Fuel pump pressure.
- Fuel injectors.
- Non Return Valve clogged, located on the lower side of car chassis above the fuel tank.
- Engine compression, valve clearance, spark plugs.
The previous owner has screwed things up by changing the air intake and eliminating the air temp sensor. The car's computer depends on a series of sensors to determine what fuel mixture it should command, and now it can't do that properly.
When the car is cold, it knows from the coolant temp, and it sends plenty of fuel, but when hot it is getting the mixture wrong.
Restore the air intake to original, with the correct sensors, as it should run OK.
If not, then go looking for a vacuum leak or an air leak in the air intake hose and plenum somewhere.
sounds like the engine is misfiring .. often thats caused by arcing of aging ignition wiring and distributer cap ... you can change the following items:
spark plugs , distributer cap, rotor and ignition wiring .. that often fixes problems with that year car ..
Before we both knock ourselves out with fuel injector testing. Hook up a Digital voltmeter (DVM) to upstream O2 sensor and lets see how she is burning. Remember positive lead of DVM to signal wire and negative lead to ground. Anything above 550 mV is rich anything below 350mV is lean. Be mindful that an exhaust leak the size of a pin hole in this region can cause a rough idle. A healthy reading should bounce between 550mV and 350 mV.
Next to test is O2 is working block off air in take making mixture rich and see what O2 says about it . Then pull off a vacuum hose (a lean condition) and see if DVM drops to 200to 300mV's.
Keep me posted.
Seems like this car have the same symptom wherever it is, I have this trouble as well, I did the tune up, injection cleaning, change spark plugs and spark plugs wires, change the air filter, change the engine mounting but still the same trouble :(
check for a small vacuum leak speciallythe lines going to the throtle have someone look at it while you seat onthe car , idle ,FOOT ON THE BRAKE ! a way to test for leaks if to spray a lil wd40 around the lines an listen if the idle gets better or worst, sometimes the reason the engine runs to rough or lean are vacumm lines that are slightly broken.
Rule 1 ....WD40 is non-flammable. It used to be an effective starter spray for diesels. Unfortunately it now contains a fire retardant to prevent accidents....so the rev you were looking for wont arrive.
It does work well with easy-start/ether though.
I suspect you found a vacuum leak and sucked WD40 into the intake....If u think u did you'll need to clean your plugs.
A strobe lamp to check the spark would be a good idea. Also if a lil squirt (VERY LITTLE) of easy start doesnt produce at least a backfire, your spark is out.