I am replacing the rear rotors and disk pads on my 2006 Freestyle at 35k. I have done this many times on GM and Chrysler vehicles. To compress the brake cylinder, I always put a C clamp on it, opened up the master cyclinder resevoir, removed some fluid if it was to full and then compressed the brake cylinder with the C clamp. The cylinder compresses, resevoir fills up and I put it back together. This is not working on my Freestyle. The wheel cylinder will not compress. I tried opening up the bleed port in case their was a check valve in the system somewhere and this has had little effect on compressing it.
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Re: Ford Freestyle rear pad and rotor replacement
Most Fords I've worked on have a screw-in rear caliper design. Look at the caliper piston - do you see two notches on the face, across from each other? Those are the keyholes for screwing the piston back in. AutoZone rents/loans the piston retractor tool (leave them the full value of the kit, about $40, take it home and use it, then return it and get 100% of your money back). Simply fit the proper sized key disc onto the tool and screw it back into the caliper, and you're done.
Rent the tool. It's free, they return your deposit. Ford rear brakes are a problem in that passenger side goes in counter clock wise. The driver side goes in clockwise. But since the tool is only for left handed threads you have an awkward situation on the passenger side. You have to compress with the nut while you back out with the center screw. So turn one a little and then turn the other a little. Don't stop until the piston is completely flush with the cylinder. This is only necessary because the emergency brakes actuate the rear brakes. The fronts can be done with a c-clamp.
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On an '07, it's probably not the caliper. You may just have a stone or some dirt stuck inbetween the pads and the rotor. I've seen this many times, and all it requires is to take it apart again and clean the rotors off. However, while you have it apart, check to see if everything appears to be in its proper place, because if the pads were not seated properly, one of the pads could have came loose and may be rubbing up against the rotor flange. Good luck.
No you don't, you can have them turn the brake disk/rotor . Turning the brake disk/rotor is when you have the surface of the disk resurfaced by having a brake lath cut the high spots down.
The disk are cheap enough now that most will just replace the disk/rotor the same time they replace the brake pads. You can pick up performance drilled or slotted brake disk/rotor for almost the same price as the OEM disk/rotor.
Good luck and hope this helps, you can pick up the slotted brake disk/rotor at Auto Zone for a reasonable price and they will have the step by step instruction replacing the disk and if you like to just have the disk/rotor turned, they can do they there too.
you need to grease the metal clips at the top and bottom of the pads (dont get grease on the rotor or pad though) and also spray some "disc brake quiet" on the back of the pads. it comes in a red can and the spray that comes out is like sticky red paint. do those 2 things and the squeals will be gone.
use a large c-clamp to bottom out the caliper pistons remove the caliper bolts .slip out the pads and remove the caliper from the disk
hang the caliper from a coathanger wire to avoid damaging the brakeline after replacement of the pads;brake bleeding is not needed Rotors are held on to the axle like a wheel; with bolts
The rear pads are usualy harder than the front and the harder the pads the more wear there is on the rotors Unless the rotors were worn to the point of replacement they could have had them skimmed.Being soft doesnt make much sense.Have an 03 ba falcon and only replaced our rotors after doing 125000ks The expidition is a similar beast that used the same brake system.Get the rotors skimmed and go to a slightly softer pad to extend rotor life