Purchased this "lemon" July 1, 2008. After spending $900.00 on a brake job, I was told the Master Cylinder Reservoir "Diaphram" was not fitting correctly. No LIE! It was way too big to fit the reservoir. I have tried every resource I know of to just purchase the :BLACK RUBBER/SYLICONE SEAL that sits inside the Master Cylinder reservoir. Evidently, Mitsu. doesn't sell it separately. Owned the vehicle for 2 mos and will NOT buy a new Master Cylinder. Just want the seal so I can sell the lovely vehicle.
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Re: Mitsubishi Diamante Master Cylinder?
You can go to a salvage yard and find wrecked cars like it even the galant has the same reservior and find the diaphram chances are they won't even charge ypou for it.. good luck please rate this..thanks
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Sounds like you need to change your Master Cylinder . This is the cylinder located below where the brake fluid goes. You stated no pressure and this is a symptom of this cylinder plunger going bad and not pushing fluid threw the lines. Remember to rate my solution
I have the same problem and they want to charge me 600 dollars for the master cylinder I told the I'm just going to return the tbc get my money back and by the aftermarket I don't want to spend $1000 for a tbc
brake pad measurment? what about the e-brake? could be electrical
could require brake job......if the brake master cylinder has a float sensor is it stuck down-sometimes the float will not float and boom
the light is on..hope this helps.
that sounds just like a leaky none return velve in the master cylinder or very low on brake fluid it may even have got air in the system also if you removed the rear drums and never ajusted up the brake shoes this could give you this problem check the rear brums first the brake shoes should just be tuching the drums if there not pull off the drums and wind up the ajusters then refit the drum till the drake shoes are only just clearing the drum i know they have self ajusting shoes but half the time they just dont work very well so ajust it by hand,, the front brake are disk's and they are self ajusting,,,
after doing this work leave the car for a minue or so and stamp on the brake to pump them out if you then need to pump the brakes up again that shoes its just ajusted the rear drums,,,the brake pedel should only ever need to be prest once never pumped up,, if this dont help you out and sort out the problem then and only then replace the master cylinder as there normaly very strong and dont brake down often and they often leak brake fluid first,,,my bet is its the rear shoes needing ajusting up
Its probably a mastercylinder internal bypass meaning theres no pressure going to the wheels its internally loosing pressure which would explain no fluid loss,check to see if theres any moisture at the back or the Master cylinder where it bolts to the brake booster,but from past experiences this would be the problem its unlikley the A.B.S unit has failed
Look for a broken or disconnected spring near the pivot for the pedal arm underneath the dash. I'm assuming that the pedal will return freely if pulled back by hand. If it won't, then the master cylinder probably needs service on the engine side of the firewall..
It could be either. If the leak is roughly under the firewall on the driver's side then it's likely to be the master cylinder. If it's the master cylinder, it will probably cost you $75-80 for a replacement.
It would be extraordinary for a technician to recommend a booster and a master cylinder with no previous mention from you of a possible problem in this area. In other words, the technician had no business looking at the m/cyl or the booster, unless you told him that your braking was deficient.
Here is what REALLY happened: Somewhere, I'd bet, your brake light came on, and somebody "topped off" the master cylinder, to shut the light off. Now, please understand that the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir DROPS PROPORTIONALLY to the wear of the brake pads. When the tech replaced the front brake pads, he obviously had to squeeze the caliper pistons into the housings to allow the insertion of the new pads. This action forced the brake fluid from the now-compressed caliper pistons BACK into the master cylinder, and it sprayed out from under the cap, coating the cylinder and the booster. Tell that repair service that you do NOT need a booster and a master cylinder, THEY caused the problem with the fluid being everywhere. I am confident that I just saved you a significent amount of money that you do NOT need to spend. Have a great day.