When you turn the key ther is no pwer to the pump but when you turn the key to start there is juice there for a second then its dead the pump worked when we took it out of the tank but nothing when we put it back in the tank we changed the relay and fuse is good any ideas we can try today we went and put a diferent pump in so its not the pump
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Almost sounds like a Alternator issue or even a bad battery might want to have them checked. If your alternator is going out the battery may not have enough juice to keep the fuel pump going this is the reason it will shut off. If your battery is bad then it will not hold the charge.
check for fuel pressure or listen for fuel pump operation in fuel tank when you turn ignition switch to on position for ten seconds. if no could have faulty fuel pump fuse or relay pump could have failed.if yes hear fuel pump running could have plugged fuel filter. if fuel system okay problem could be ignition system.have vechicle code scan look for fault codes.could have faulty ignition module faulty camshaft sensor or crankshaft position sensor.faulty PCM.
Well for starters, you need to diagnose the problem before replacing anymore parts. I say this because you mention both the fuel pump and sensors dealing with the ignition system which are 2 separate main things. Basically it takes 2 things to make an engine start, fuel and spark at the spark plugs. You need to narrow down what is missing because it seems since you replaced sensors dealing with spark and then you mention the other need fuel. I'm not sure as to where to start to help until whatever is missing is diagnosed and then find the cause of the loss. There are a couple of things you can check. Below is a picture of the relay box in the engine compartment. With the help of somebody put a finger touching both the fuel pump relay and the EGI main relay. While touching them have somebody turn the key to the "on" position (no need to try and start). When the key is turned on you should feel a "click" inside both of those relays. The fuel pump relay will click for about 3 seconds and the click again to shut off. The EGI main relay should stay on. If both seem to be fine you need to make sure of the fuel pump gettting "juice" and for power to the ignition system like the coils. You can get to the power/juice wire at the fuel pump pretty easy. You can access the connection at the fuel pump by lifting the lower part of the rear seat. Once the seat is lifted you should be able to see a part in the carpet that is cut to be able to lift the carpet up and access the plate covering the access to the fuel pump and/or the top of the fuel tank. Using a test light, check the green and yellow wires at the fuel pump. You should have power at those wire when turn the engine over or if the key is just turned to the on position you should have power there for about 3 seconds. To begin checking for spark or power to the ignition system you need to make sure you are getting power to the ignition coils. The red and white wires at the coils are your power wires. Check those. Also you can check the power at the fuel injectors. When the key is turned on or when trying to start, you should have power to the green wire at each of the fuel injectors. You should have constant power/juice at each of the fuel injectors. This is where I would start to narrow down the loss. Start here with these tests and let me know how the tests come out by replying/commenting here or you can email me directly at email@example.com ith what you have found out. Once the first tests are done and I know what the results are, we can go to the next step with a couple of other tests to figue the problem out. If one of the relays don't "click" then you have a possible bad relay. The EGI main relay is a common thing to go as well as the fuel pump relay. Don't mind helping and there is no cost to you for it but I don't want to tell you to start replacing parts until the problem is located. Hope this helps get you started.
You may start on the fuel pump. If the fuel pump is faulty it may not register on the dash. Try to loosen the bolt on the fuel rail and turn on the key but don't crank it. If there's a fuel flow then the fuel pump is fine. If there's no fuel flow then the fuel pump needs replacement.
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There is an easy test you can do to check this out: Turn the key to the "on" position, but don't start the car. Have your ear near the underbelly of the dash and listen for a click that happens 5 to 10 seconds after you turn the key on. If you hear this sound, your fuel pump relay timer is working, but this does not guarantee that the fuel pump itself is working. (If you don't hear a click, replace the relay - but make sure you're getting power to it first!)
Second test is to take the leads off of the pump and hook it up directly to the battery. You can get the juice there from a long jumper cable and some 14 gauge wire. Alternatively, you can hook up a volt meter to the leads of the pump (floating ground, so use the two terminals) and have an assistant turn the key on. No juice? Look for relay problems. Juice? Probably the pump. If you have more than 120,000 miles on it, you might want to renew it anyway. The brushes in the motor have a limited life, at which point it will start to work sporatically or not at all.
check mas air flow sensor they used to put power to fuel pump when cranked also check engine computer ,its puts ground to relay when first turned on to give a 2 second shot to the fuel pump to prime fuel system
Your battery is either faulty or ther is a parasitic drain, have it checked out at parts house. With a good battery installed, spray some starter fluid into intake housing. If it starts, then dies, you have fuel pressure/delivery problems. Can you hear the fuel pump run when you turn on the key? Hope this helps.
can I call you or you call me I can explain better
The ASD relay that supplies power to the uel pump only sullplies power to 2 seconds after you turn the key on then it truns off so you have to check for power immediately after you trun on the key you need two (2) people.