The sound started at first like an airplane flying over you, like an echoing hum, but now sounds like a brake pad grinding over a rear drum even when the brake is not applied. Someone told me it could be the wheel hub blown. I don't feel the steering wheel vibrating unless I hit the brake hard. There's no shimming at all while driving.
P.S. Where can I get a free online manual for this car?
Your loseing a bearing in your front end. Don't have it replaced by your dealer or joe machanic. The bearing and hub tolerance is less then nothing and you CAN'T just press this baby in. You have to cool your bearing in the deep freeze, and heat the heck out of the hub. You won't get any time to mess around and you still need a press.bearing cost 50.00 The other FIX is to find a hub in a salvage yard, preferably low miles, cost 20.00
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This is why in North America they always change pads and rotors at the same time. Have you hit a kerb in bad weather? The grinding sound may be bad wheel bearings or CV Joints. Jack the front of the vehicle up and spin the wheels. Put a piece of polythene pipe in your ear and use it to pinpoint where the grinding noise is coming from. It looks odd, but it works.
Knowing the warning signs of impending trouble can go a long way toward keeping your car from a highway breakdown.
You need to develop an awareness of how your car should sound. For instance, when you turn the key to start, the gear like sound of the starter motor engaging should be smooth and sound like an electric motor working hard to crank the engine. If you notice a different sound - more like a grinding - chances are you have a starter motor problem about to happen. Let's say you're driving along and you feel the steering wheel vibrating at certain speeds. The onset of this subtle vibration could tip you off to a tire that needs to be balanced, worn steering linkage or a bulge in a tire that may be about to blow out. In any case, the vibration needs attention. Normally you shouldn't notice the sound of the exhaust system. A sudden change in your car's sound, therefore, isn't something to ignore.
Suppose you're used to a pleasant hum, then, perhaps after a bump or when starting up the car one morning, there's a loud roaring that sound like a hot rod without a muffler. The harder you press the gas pedal. The louder the noise becomes. A noisy exhaust means the exhaust gases are blowing out under the car rather than at the rear of the car - a dangerous condition. Brakes play their own warning tune. On many cars, a scratching noise coming from the wheels that stops when you stop pressing on the brake pedal is caused by a low-brake warning device. Its purpose is to warn you that you need front brake pads. A loud grinding noise when you step on the brake pedal is an alarm that your brakes need immediate attention. The grinding noise occurs when the brake pads are totally worn away and the metal of the brake pad backing plate rubs directly on the brake rotor.
Ignoring grinding brakes can be a costly - or even deadly - error. Shock absorbers help keep the car steady and balanced while the wheels roll over bumps and ruts. Their modern counterpart, the MacPherson strut, does essentially the same thing. You might not notice worn shocks or struts when you're simply riding around town. The safety effect of these devices comes into play at higher speeds. When you hit a bump, the tire wants to bounce like a basketball. Worn shocks or struts allow the ties to bounce out of control making steering difficult and braking less effective.
What you may notice is the car rocking more every time you stop, assuming an almost boat like quality. Old, broken or worn out shocks and struts should be replaced to ensure safe steering and braking at higher speeds. Engine noises are easiest to hear when the car is not moving. Transmission sounds or brake noises usually occur when the car is moving. Pay attention to any new sound and keep notes - how it sounds, when it makes the sound and what difference, if any, occurs in driving when the noise is present - to help you describe it to your service dealer.
grinding sound can be from a lot of places. drums. gears. brakes etc does it do it while idling. does the sound change in revers. braking does it change sound. speeding up then drop a gear etc. these can help you find the problem eara
Hi, sounds like a bad wheel bearing, possible tire noise, if you can identify or narrow down which end of the car (front or rear) its coming from you can rotate your tires(front to back) and test drive and see if the sound moves to opposite end now. If not you can use a stethoscope or long screw drivers and spin each wheel by hand (vehicle not running!) and listen for a humming grinding sound while tires are off ground via a lift or jack.
4x4 ? how many miles ? jack front wheels off ground and rotate by hand feel for the grind, bad wheel hub bearing? check brake rotor dust shields, If high miles possibly front carrier or pinion bearing. Just replaced front , rear , and transfercase bearings on my 98 with 193,000 mi. And yes,they were all bad $500.00 did labor myself. did rear first as it was humming, week later grind and hum coming from front, then couple days later transfer case was also whinning,humming, good god what a project all that was but today its great and quiet.
if this sounds like a grinding or grating noise its likly to be worn out disk pads it sounds like metal on metal,,,,if the noise is a squeaking sound when you lightly tuch the brakes then its likly to be dry disk pads they need a spot of copper ease grees on the back of the pads to stop this noise,,wip them out and grees them,,,only on the backs!