Question about 1998 Cadillac DeVille

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Electrical hard starting and no turn signal

Car starts hard after sitting just a few minutes. Hook a jumper box and starts right up. when you start it up the gas door is open and sometimes the trunk will open. Also the turn signal doesn't work.

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That tells me that 1...you have a short in your ignition module. 2 your alt is not charging the battery. the module for the igniton and turn signal is under the cover of your steering column. with the vehicle running remove the positive cable. if the car dies it's the regualter in the altenator. if it keeps running that tells me that either your battery won't hold a chaqrge or there is a load on it during downtime. look at the connections under your dash and see if they are tight and also look for cracked or discolored connectors as well this will indicate where the short is. please rate this thanks...

Posted on Sep 05, 2008

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Takes 10 or more trys to start if it sits for several hours if it sits for a couple of days it will start right up


I happened to have owned the exact Model and Year of this car. I did not have this problem but can suggest a few potential parts which can do this.

What you are describing is likely due to a "heat sink" condition in electrical components or failure of the "cold start sequence" to reset.

The cold start sequence needs a water sensor to tell the ECM to reset from driving Mode to Starting Mode. Cars usually have 2 identical sensors with 1 working the dash gauge and the other operating the signal to the ECM. This is a silent failure and usually not picked up by the onboard diagnostics. It is an inexpensive part. But, the ECM could be bad if it does not do anything with the signal. The ECM is expensive.

The other part I have in mind works the same way with the ECM. The O2 sensors also tell the ECM what to do. The cold setting for the O2 is different than the Hot setting. When the O2 is hot, it makes the engine get a signal to run lean, often too lean to start. Sometimes this error is picked up on the onboard diagnostics, but not always. Someone would need to unplug the O2 sensors and test them electrically to see what values they show.

Relays can also cause a problem like yours. After shutting off the engine relays can be hot. These hot relays will cool over time, but the points or coils inside may not work properly when the engine is restarted too soon.

Last, have your battery checked. A hot battery can drop voltage and it may be at that tipping point where electrical values are changed throughout the system.

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That's a tough one.. I think you may have been on the right track when you replaced the negative battery cable. The next thing I think you should suspect are the grounding straps located between your engine and the frame of the car. As an experiment, hook a jumper cable between the block of the engine and the frame of the car. Make sure you have good connections and THEN try starting it and see if you can tell any difference. Grounding is the most often neglected or overlooked aspect of electrical problems.

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Unhook your battery again for about 15 minutes. After you re hook it up, let car sit with the key in the on position, but not running. Let it sit for about 5 minutes, and then turn key off, and start it. It may run rough for a few minutes as the sensors and systems are all resetting. If you try running it right away, or cold, it can confuse the regen process

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could be a bad battery or alternator, and/or you might have something on the car constantly draining power from the battery.
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Truck started as normal. Ran for a few minutes


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