If by no injector pulse you mean no electrical signal to injector, no that wont do it, that would be related to a bad ECM
I would first check to see if you have good fuel pressure; if not the fuel filter and/or pump would be suspect.
If you have good fuel pressure but no signal to the injector(s) the ECM is probably the problem
Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/sean_54c3a3dc48a7773c
The DIS does not controll the injectors
From everything you added, I would say the the ECM (main computer) not the EEC has gone bad and needs replaced.
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The fuel pressure has to to 35 to 45 psi. And no low fuel pressure will not cause no injector pulse.The veicle sounds more like a idle air control problem why? because as you stated it runs rough when it does start.Get it to start sysle the key you will hear the fuel pump go on cycle it three times then start it up. when the vehicle warms up take the idle air valve out and clean it with carburator cleaner or even brake cleaner you may even want to do the throttle body itself this should help with the hard start up and rough running
Find the cam position sensor and follow the connection that it is attached to your cam sensor has failed . Try this wiggle the connection especially the cam position harness connection this is thhe one responsible in giving injector pulse
You have a failed cam sensor the fix is a replacement
You said you have spark then leave the cranksensor alone because you state you dont have injector pulse then you and I have to now check for injector pulse and yes the voltmeter can see it and yes you do have a cam sensor it called a magnetic pick up that is in the distributor these fails frequently . So lets do injector pulse first with the voltmeter key on measure one injector with the connector connected to the injector crank the vehicle did the signal go low to zero or stay at 12 volts if it stayed at 12volt this is the B+ of the injector now go to the other wire on the same injector crank it did the voltmeter drop to zero if it does you have injector pulse if it doesnt then we need to trouble shoot for injector pulse move the positive lead of the voltmeter and go to the distributor There is a ignition module attached to it find the dark blue wire just as you tested the injector for pulse you will need to test this for pulse does the volt meter go from 12 to low ? if it doesnt you have a failed DIS module but before you replace it get a test light go back to the injector the red wire on the injector is B+ that is constant 12volts on the injector is the tan wire that is the switching of the injector use the test light to get it to pulse if the test light fails to pulse you maybe looking at a ECA
Find the fuel shrader valve it will look like a tire valve stem on the fuel rail crank the engine go to the fuel shrader valve press it using a small srewdriver or pointer type tool did a lot of fuel come shooting out or did it dribble out if it dribbled out you will need a fuel pump with a fuel filter if it came out strong we need to keep on with the injector troubleshooting
If you put the test light on the pulse or tan wire of the injector and you guess was that it provided a ground path you are absolutly right and some time a ground at the injector wire with key on engine off helps restore that failed ground and when you remove the ground and try to start the vehicle and it start there is the proof a failed ECM you should see it on the to firewall on the passenger side ECU gives the ground before we condemd the ECU check the power ground go to the battery negative area are they correctly installed ? make sure they are attached to proper ground and do a voltage drop on the negative terminals
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Fuel filters should be changed every year If not they will certainly get filthy inside causing running problems
Change it if you have not done so then proceed to see if it runs smoother
If not the fuel pressure regulator maybe at fault. Then a fuel pressure check must be made
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I replaced the IAC valve, plugs and plug wires. It will not start at all for the last month or so. It has no injector pulse. It has 12 volts to one side of all the inj. plugs when they are all disconnected.
When the plugs are all connected, there is 12 volts to both sides of all the plugs. All the injectors have 16 ohms resis. Thanks.
I'm far from an expert. Just going by what I've read on the internet. Maybe I'm not checking the pulse right (pulses too fast for a multimeter?) Should it have 12 volts to both sides of the injectors?
My 89 ranger does not have a cam position sensor. Could it be the crankshaft position sensor? I'll see if I can get at the crankshaft sensor tomorrow. Could it be that there is a lot of dirt/oil on the sensor causing a problem?
Is the ignition module and DIS module the same thing? Also, I don't understand using a test light to get the injector to pulse. Also what is an ECA? the cable?
I connected a test light to the red injector wire with ignition on (but not trying to start) and it shines bright.
I then connected it to the white wire and it shines dim (it still has 12 volts with multimeter).
With the engine turning over, the white wire still shines the bulb dimly but with no pulsing, HOWEVER,
the engine fires briefly, like the bulb/wire is providing a missing ground to open the injector(s).
Enough fuel got thru that it briefly fired again, without the wire.
I'm hoping this tells you something. I couldn't quite understand your instructions before.
This car has a DIS module on top of a TFI module (thick film ignition module) with wires coming out of the top and bottom. Which wires go to the injectors?
About 2 weeks ago I took a lot of wire connectors apart to look for corrosion, including both those but it didn't do any good.
Before that, I got the codes off the EEC (computer), and it read 11, 11 (everything ok).
Fuel comes shooting out of the valve. I'm not sure you got my reply from 2 days ago so I'll send it again. I think there is some electrical problem as the engine never fires at all unless I use the bulb/wire on the injector. Thanks for your help.
I connected a test light to the red injector wire with ignition on (but not trying to start) and it shines bright.
I then connected it to the white wire and it shines dim (it has 12 volts with multimeter).
With the engine turning over, the white wire still shines the bulb dimly with no pulsing, HOWEVER,
the engine fires briefly, like the bulb/wire is providing a missing ground to open the injector(s).
Enough fuel got thru that it briefly fired again, without the wire.
I'm hoping this tells you something. I couldn't quite understand your instructions before.
This car has a DIS module on top of a TFI module (thick film ignition module) with wires coming out of the top and bottom.
About 2 weeks ago I took a lot of wire connectors apart to look for corrosion, including both those but it didn't do any good.
Before that, I got the codes off the EEC (computer), and it read 11, 11 (everything ok).
1989 Ford Ranger 2.3L EFI. Please bear in mind I'm not a car expert and need simple instructions.
Engine turns over but doesn't start. It has spark on all 4 passenger side wires. It has fuel pressure.
A test light to the red injector wire with ignition on (but not trying to start) and it shines bright (has 12 volts).
I then connected it to the white wire and it shines dimmer (it still has 12 volts with a multimeter).
With the engine turning over, the white wire still shines the bulb dimly but with no pulsing, HOWEVER,
the engine fires briefly, like the bulb/wire is providing a missing ground to open the injector(s).
All the injectors have 16 ohms resistance.
This pickup has a DIS module on top of a TFI module (thick film ignition module) with wires coming out of the top and bottom.
I need to know what part is definitely failing-
Does the DIS module control the injectors? Which wires go to the injectors (to test for continuity to the module)?
I tried grounding the backing plate of the DIS/TFI but there's no effect.
I took a lot of wire connectors apart to look for corrosion but I didn't find any.
I got the codes off the EEC (computer), and it read 11, 11 (everything ok).
Thanks for helping. (Cansmo helped but I'm afraid I just don't understand his instructions)
The ECM is called an EEC on this old pickup. But anyway, it does have fuel pressure. The wires from the injectors go to where? They must go to either the DIS or TFI (ignition) module.
I guess I could peel the conduit off to find out, unless I can find a wiring diagram. Cansmo said the cam sensor inside the DIS was the problem at one point. The ECM/EEC gave OK codes for what it's worth. I guess really shoudn't expect someone to solve this problem over the internet. Thanks anyway.
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