The check engine light was on for a few months on my 2001 Ford Explorer Sport. I finally located and repaired a vacuum leak but now I think the TPS is bad. Using the Haynes test recommendations, it should read from 1v with the throttle closed to 5v with the throttle open. It stays at 5v throughout. I replaced the TPS but the new one gives the same readings. Note that prior to locating the vacuum leak, I checked the TPS and it tested within specs.
Is there another way to test the TPS? Did I just get a defective new one? Is the TPS good but possibly the Power Control Module (PCM) bad?
Re: 2001 Ford Explorer Sport Throttle Position Sensor
Hi, Take a little time to check all earth mounts,There are some fine earthwires under the looms running from air intake if one of these is broken or dirty it can cause all the symptoms you describe. All the best. Phil
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the overdrive light flashing on a A4Od transmission is a fault signal for the transmission , just like a ck engine light but for the transmission only , get a code read to find the fault stored in the ecm and then you'll know what exactly it is
its very common for engine swaps to have a few intermittent sensor failures on restart due to the connectors all getting maybe not all the care and protection they deserve in the swap (plastic baggies) and having a bit of dirt and corrosion in them now (spray contact cleaner)
with the od in/out/in/out an educated guess is that the engine throttle position sensor is not being read now , but a code reader will tell all
First, test your tps with a multimeter to make sure it is good. Explorers and mustangs are knownto go through them every decade or so. Reading should be smooth from no pedal all the way to wide open throttle.
If the tps tests ok, the relearn procedure is simple. Disconnect the battery for 30 minutes or so. Reconnect the terminal and start the engine. Just let it sit there idling for 10 to 15 minutes. Then turn the A/c to max cool on high fan for a minute or two. Drive around and see how it does. You can turn the ac off or not. The end.
ok, sounds like you covered the basics with spark. I would check in this order; 1-Throttle position sensor, sometimes it wears out and you get poor signal back to computer, 2-clean MAF sensor, 3-check/clean IAT (intake air sensor). If this still doesn't help then I would check your fuel flow....but i'm thinking its your tps. Two screws will change that out quickly.
What engine do you have? is check engine light on? You said you changed coil pack, but what about spark plugs? could be fouled by normal wear, improper application/plug gap, oil fouling (oil residue on electrode) caused by bad valve guide seals or bad piston rings or gas fouling(electrode wet with gas) caused by bad plug, wire, injector, O-2 sensor. Could be caused by a vacuum leak (hose or intake manifold/gasket) Check all vacuum hoses for cracking/chaffing, repair as needed. with engine idling spray carburetor cleaner at base of intake manifold watch for rpm increase if so there is a vacuum leak. Could be stuck open egr valve, Could be compression problem or timing chain problem. This is the best I can do with info you provided. Hope it helps.
Test the injectors for power going to them. Check fuel pump pressure as you may need to adjust. Finally, a whiff of starting fluid may let engine run for a few seconds indicating it really Is a fuel issue. You have both a fuel pump relay and an ECC relay in the Powerbox. If this is a Double Overhead Cam V-8, the are parts called "Cam Phasers" which can stick and throw off timing. "Cold Start Sequence" This is a enrichment function which is controlled by water temperature. A bad temperature sensor can eliminate this process. The fuel mix is set rich and the cam timing is changed to promote easier starts. Most of the items I mentioned will not throw a diagnostic Code. You did not indicate whether a Code was set. The throttle position sensor can be checked by disconnecting the electric lead and using an Ohmmeter on the part while you move the throttle. The Ohms should change smoothly. Would like to know what you find.
Most likely there is a vacuum leak somewhere, check all small hoses and plastic "T" fittings for cracks or breaks, could be a vacuum line to the heater control, power brake booster also, listen for hissing noise @ startup. Happy hunting.
P0455 most likely means one or more of the following has happened: A loose or improperly affixed gas cap A non-conforming gas cap (i.e. not factory/original brand) Other leak or damaged piece in EVAP system
Possible Solutions: With a P0455, the most common repair is to: Remove and reinstall the gas cap, clear the codes, and drive for a day and see if the codes come back. Otherwise, replace the gas cap, and/orInspect the EVAP system for cuts/holes in tubes/hoses (you may hear a vacuum noise or smell fuel), repair if necessary.
P0457 can set by itself if the gas cap is left loose. when the engine controller sees a large increase in fuel level it knows you put some in the tank, and it runs the evaporative emissions system test to see if the system is sealed. If it sees a large leak it knows the cap was left off and sets the P0457. If you are positive the cap wasn't left even a little bit loose you may have a leak back there. It could be in the filler neck, from the tank to the evaporative emissions canisters, and from there on up to the purge solenoid. If you don't see any leaks you probably have a bad NVLD, the unit that checks the system for leaks.