Question about 2002 Nissan Maxima

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2001 Maxima Shuts down when stopped or idleing..

Ok - We've had this car for a little more than a year, when we bought it we took it in for complete servicing (new brakes, O2 sensors, oil and filter changes) but our car has now gotten worse when it idles or is stopped it dies. It has now started to shut down while we are driving (slowly or beginning to stop at a light or stop sign). The service tech said it was the O2 sensors and all were replaced. Before I pay thousands of dollars to have repaired, can you offer a solution as to why this is still happening?

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It may be the idle or speed or throttle position sensor what ever it may be called on your particular car.It usually is not very expensive to replace.

Posted on Sep 05, 2008

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ok this can be applied to just about any vehical ever made ...but my experience is with ( for this case) my 1991 jeep cherokee..i had all kinds of proplems and codes...they consisted of hard starting, reving up and down, cutting out,(engine dying), worse and worse gas milage..stumbling..o2 sensor codes( fault o2 sensor)..bad isc motor..bad map sensor...bad temp/thermostat and my brakes kept getting worse..(softer and softer...so i started posting my proplem all over the net and even broke down and took it to a jeep service center...i spent well over seven hundred dollars and still most all of the proplems remained...so i referd back to an old and very simple way to search for proplems with any motor...(cheapest way first)...lol well i guess not first..at least not for me haha..i started unpluging the different sensors while the engine was running to see if there was any change and every one seemed to change things a little ...so i then took a can of carb cleaner and started spraying ever gasget surface and vacume hose...!!!!..i found that the engine changed pitch every time i sprayed the intake gasget...!!!..so i bought a new one for ten dollars ...spent 4 hours to replace it .. and it fixed every one of the proplems i had...it sounds crazy but if you put a little thought behind it ..it makes perfect sense...o2 was reading faulty and lean(more oxygendue to leak)..brakes were getting softer(due to drop in manifold vacume) map sensor was reading faulty and causeing stumble and cut out (also due to drop in manifold pressure) temp/thermosate reading due to idle air temp (which needs to coencide with temp sensor) not recieving proper air flow reading also due to leak...well as much as i can go on about this i am just posting this where i can i hopes that my adventure saves someone a little money....remember i spent over 7 hundred before figuring out this simple ten dollar fix!!!! and since the intake and exhust share a common gasget it is pron to leaks....good luck and i hope this helps

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If you have a check engine light on you can pull the code and it should tell you if its an o2 sensor or not. I usually replace them when i do a major tune up. Change your spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor (if your car has cap and rotor), oil and filter, tranmission oil and filter, air filter, fuel filter, coolant flush, and o2 sensors. Thats a major tune up. Also spray a little brake cleaner above the engine around the intake and vacuum line and see if the engine reacts to it. If does you have a vacuum leak which may cause you to surge aswell. You may also want to change your iac motor and throttle postion sensor aswell seeing as they have alot to do with idle and acceleration. Without an engine code its hard to tell but those are my basics gor that problem. You can ask a mechanic for a diagnostic then you can fix it yourself if thats what you are trying to do. Hope this helped good luck

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Which O2 sensor have you replaced? Does the car have any oil leaks? Does the car drive abnormal? hesitate, buck, etc.
I have seen where the engine is leaking oil. That oil makes its way into the connector for the front O2 sensor. Since the O2 is located in the pipe at the rear of the motor, slightly under the oil filter. When the oil gets into the connector it causes the readings to become out of whack and the PCM sets a code for it. Do you replace the engine harness. Once the oil gets inside you can never get it out.

You can always try to make a piece of harness and bypass the section that goes down under the intake to the sensor. Essentially taking the oil soaked part of the harness out of the picture. If the problem is gone than you know for sure its the harness. The connector by the O2 is connector C105. There is another spot by the right strut tower where connector C210 is. that connector houses the same wires as C105. You can try to back the pins out of C210 and run new wires down to the O2 ans see what happens.
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Hope helps.

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