2006 ford ranger stalling 100,000 miles, changed out tps sensor, fuel filter , plug wires, air filter, cleaned throttle body and map sensor and sensor on top of intake manifold; stalls when pulling up to stop light, no check engine light or code, jarrett ford of dade city was not able to fix the problem

I have a 1993 2wd Ranger XLT with the 3.0 & A4LD automatic. Likely a good bit different from yours which probably has three coils and is distributorless. After checking from system to system I finally fixed mine. A guy changed my noisy power steering pump and in the process broke a port (plastic) off of the solenoid valve at the carbon vapor canister, the other end of that vacuum hose led to the PCV valve. I replaced the solenoid and this helped improve the idle a lot. I noticed that when I disconnected the battery (even overnight) the computer failed to go into "learn-mode" after reconnecting and starting it up. I removed the Engine Control Module (EFI Computer) opened it up and found two electrolytic capacitors that looked OK but I ordered replacements of the same value, 3.3 uf (microfarad) and 47 uf. I chose higher voltage ratings for both of them which is fine to do. I've been in electronics since the late 70's so unsoldering the old ones, removing them and soldering in the new ones wasn't tough. Some versions have three caps, mine only two. After doing that mine will now learn how to idle as it should and its stalling at road speed ceased. It would still stall at a dead stop sometimes but would always restart. I had already replaced the Thick Film Ignition module. I drove it to work and it stalled when waiting for traffic so I could make a left into our business park, restarted and drive the last 1/2 mile to work. When I went to leave at the end of the day, it cranked and cranked but did not offer to start. I raised the hood and fiddled with this and that and tried again but got the same thing, no start. Next I pushed the plug and wires in on the back of my single ignition coil and they moved inward. I tried again and it started right up. I had been suspicious of the Idle Air Control valve at the throttle body so I when to Advance and ordered a IAC valve and a replacement ignition coil "pigtail plug" and attached it using waterproof ****-splices (from Fastenal), a heat gun shrinks and seals them after they are crimped on. I replaced the IAC and gasket (came with the new IAC) and have had no stalling since then. An electronics repair shop can replace the caps in your PCM, ECM, EFI computer (whatever you want to call it) for a lot less than having it rebuilt or exchanged. You may have to talk them into doing it though, they probably have never worked on a EFI computer before and can't or won't give you a warranty of any kind. I did the job myself and so I give myself a lifetime warranty on my work! Ha Ha! I did many of the same things as you, new fuel pump, fuel filter, (I think you meant MAF sensor, not MAP sensor) and cleaned my throttle body which was filthy. I'd like to find a filter to put in-line with the PCV hose that sends crankcase oil vapor into the intake just before the throttle blade to help keep the throttle body clean, preferably a clear or semi-transparent one so I can keep an eye on it's relative cleanliness and need for replacement. Remember to check/replace the fuel pump relay, I keep a spare in the glove compartment. Low oil pressure can also shut the fuel pump off I think, to protect the engine from destruction when there is no oil pressure. That is bypassed while cranking since before the engine is actually running the oil pressure is quite low. I have a 1993 2wd Ranger XLT with the 3.0 & A4LD automatic. Likely a good bit different from yours which probably has three coils and is distributorless. After checking from system to system I finally fixed mine. A guy changed my noisy power steering pump and in the process broke a port (plastic) off of the solenoid valve at the carbon vapor canister, the other end of that vacuum hose led to the PCV valve. I replaced the solenoid and this helped improve the idle a lot. I noticed that when I disconnected the battery (even overnight) the computer failed to go into "learn-mode" after reconnecting and starting it up. I removed the Engine Control Module (EFI Computer) opened it up and found two electrolytic capacitors that looked OK but I ordered replacements of the same value, 3.3 uf (microfarad) and 47 uf. I chose higher voltage ratings for both of them which is fine to do. I've been in electronics since the late 70's so unsoldering the old ones, removing them and soldering in the new ones wasn't tough. Some versions have three caps, mine only two. After doing that mine will now learn how to idle as it should and its stalling at road speed ceased. It would still stall at a dead stop sometimes but would always restart. I had already replaced the Thick Film Ignition module. I drove it to work and it stalled when waiting for traffic so I could make a left into our business park, restarted and drive the last 1/2 mile to work. When I went to leave at the end of the day, it cranked and cranked but did not offer to start. I raised the hood and fiddled with this and that and tried again but got the same thing, no start. Next I pushed the plug and wires in on the back of my single ignition coil and they moved inward. I tried again and it started right up. I had been suspicious of the Idle Air Control valve at the throttle body so I when to Advance and ordered a IAC valve and a replacement ignition coil "pigtail plug" and attached it using waterproof ****-splices (from Fastenal), a heat gun shrinks and seals them after they are crimped on. I replaced the IAC and gasket (came with the new IAC) and have had no stalling since then. An electronics repair shop can replace the caps in your PCM, ECM, EFI computer (whatever you want to call it) for a lot less than having it rebuilt or exchanged. You may have to talk them into doing it though, they probably have never worked on a EFI computer before and can't or won't give you a warranty of any kind. I did the job myself and so I give myself a lifetime warranty on my work! Ha Ha! I did many of the same things as you, new fuel pump, fuel filter, (I think you meant MAF sensor, not MAP sensor) and cleaned my throttle body which was filthy. I'd like to find a filter to put in-line with the PCV hose that sends crankcase oil vapor into the intake just before the throttle blade to help keep the throttle body clean, preferably a clear or semi-transparent one so I can keep an eye on it's relative cleanliness and need for replacement. Remember to check/replace the fuel pump relay, I keep a spare in the glove compartment. Low oil pressure can also shut the fuel pump off I think, to protect the engine from destruction when there is no oil pressure. That is bypassed while cranking since before the engine is actually running the oil pressure is quite low.