Background: the engine ovreheated a little over a year ago due to water pump failure (replaced pump, thermostat, radiator lid) and I poured some CRC solution in the radiator (says it fixs small hairline fractures in head kinda thing), flushed it out refillled, wroked - no probs.
1 year later: it ran rough, heat guage was fine (halfway), I stopped the car opened the bonnet, the overflow was boiling away, so I turned the heater on for a sec which seemed to calm it down almost immediately. later when it was cool, i checked the radiator (the coolant level was OKiish, no milky residue, i checked the oil, no milky residue. What now? tests etc? possible cause and solution?
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Re: 92'Sentra GA16 suspect cooling sytem failure
You my friend have a blown headgasket, and heres why #1 you have white smoke at start up(this is an indicator of water in the fuel and hence through the exaust when it mixes in the cylinder#2 it goes away after the warm up(this generally happens because the cylinder is so much hot than the boil point of the coolant)very little smoke would be noticed#3 oil on a plug(if they were all of the plugs i would say you had bad valve seals or oil rings on pistons) seeing that it's only one pretty much tells me that is where the gasket is leaking.#4 poor idle(car will idle rough and hesitate because the computer is trying to compensate for the water air fuel mixture. hope this helps please rate this
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Hola tengo un problema tengo un nissan BAYALFFB13SW14/1996
NUMERO DE SERIE DEL MOTOR GA16 ME INDICA EL MECANICO QUE SE MALOGRO EL ENCENDIDO EN FRIO SI ME PUDIERAN AYUDAR COMO SOLUCIANARLO O SI PUEDEN CONSEGUIR EL REPUESTO .
i regret to inform you that this is occurring due to air pockets in cooling system.the source of this air in the sytem is almost certainly due to head gasket failure.very,very common on this model/engine.does it ever run rough on a cold start and then smooth out after a couple seconds?
If you didn't do a thorough cooling system flush with the radiator replacement last year, then i would say you may have excessive build up of rust, scale and other debris. This will certainly clog up a new radiator quickly. You may still have a restriction. I would do a good flushing, including REVERSE flushing until water runs clear. This should help... Good luck, my friend.
WATER PUMP FAILURE COULD BE CAUSED BY WRONG COOLANT USE DEX COOL ANTI FREEZE.REPLACE THERMOSTAT AND BOTH RADIATOR HOSES TOP HOSE AND BOTTOM HOSE.SOFT HOSES COLAPSE LIKE PUMP HOSE.IT WILL COLAPSE FROM PUMP VACUUM CLOSING OFF SOME COOLANT FLOW.MAKE THE HEATER CORE NOT STOPPED UP IF SO IT WILL RESTRICT WATER PUMP BYPASS CAUSE EARLY PUMP FAILURE.YOU NEED 50/50 COOLANT MIXTURE YOU HALF WATER AND HALF DEX COOL DONT USE GREEN ANTI FREEZE USE ORANGE DEX COOL.I HAVE 3.4L ENGINE AND 3.1L ENGINE BEEN USING DEX COOL ANTI FREEZE SINCE I HAD BOTH VECHICLES. HAD NO WATER PUMP PROBLEMS.
I am not aying that this is what I think it is but I found this on your year BMW
Some BMW, Volkswagen and Audi cars have a common problem that the water pump
impeller becomes dislodged from the input shaft of the water pump
leaving the water pump looking ok from the outside, but failed on the
inside. If your car experiences this problem it will over heat rapidly
much like a thermostat failure. For exact specific repair procedures for
this repair visit our online repair manual page.
Failed BMW, VW, Audi Water Pump
Check Water Pump Operation
- To troubleshoot this problem first drain about a half a gallon out of
the cooling system, next remove the thermostat from the engine. With
the thermostat out start the engine (stand back) coolant should be
forced out of the thermostat port, if not the impeller has dislodged
itself from the water pump input shaft and needs to be replaced. To
replace the water pump finish draining the remainder of engine coolant,
remove the serpentine belt and coolant hoses. Next remove the water pump
mounting bolts and remove the water pump. Clean gasket surfaces and
reinstall new water pump and reassemble. Refill with coolant and recheck
system, top off engine coolant after it has re-cooled.
FLUSH COOLANT SYSTEM REPLACE THERMOSTAT AND RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP.BESURE TO USE 50/50 ANTIFREEZE AND WATER.TO RAISE BOILING POINT.PLAIN WATER WILL BOIL AWAY OR EVAPORATE CAUSING COOLING LOST WHICH MAKE ENGINE OVERHEAT.
the temperature guge will be higher than normal. there may be a squealing sound which may indicate that the seals on the pump have perished. I am not sure if you have cold weather where you are, if you don't try running the car for a while to watch the progress of the temperature gauge. You may also have an airlock in your radiator??? The only real way to be sure if your water pump is fuctioning correctly is to remove it and check the seals.
No water pump issues I am aware off, are you sure you bled the air out of the cooling system? If not fill the overflow bottle all the way full, then use a floor jack and raise the front of the car as high as you can ( this allows air to go to top of radiator tank), then run the engine at high idle speed until the cooling fan ( I assume the fan works OK?) comes on, but avoid letting the engine get into the overheat area of the guage, if it does turn it off, run water over the radiator until it cools, check the tank and radiator, top off if you need to and repeat above procedure, if this doesn't work you have some other problem like no or little flow in radiator.