Water pump change , removing belt gear covering pump
I was changing the pump on a 94 base golf and the gear over the pully was bent when trying to pry and remove, where can i find another and how do i properly remove and install the gear with engine still in? its not the cam gear or the crank sprocket its the one covering the pump you must remove. any help?
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Here is that info. Have a full set of Torx sockets inaddition to the normal ones.
the engine. Remove the air filter box. Remove the front engine mount.
Pick an order here for the belt and pullies.
What ever will work for
you. This is because the serpentine belt will llikely not stop the pullies from
spinning. A flat pry bar through two of the bolts on the water and PS pullies
while you loosen the third works better. Be careful as the bolt heads round
Remove the water pump pulley. Remove the power steering
pulley. Remove the serpentine belt. Remove the lower crank pulley. Outer
bolts not the center one Remove the belt tensioner. Remove the timing
belt covers. Put a coolant catch pan under the front of the engine.
Remove the water pump. Clean the sealing surfaces. install the new pump
anbd reinsatll the removed parts. Fill the cooling system and hope that the
heater core did not drain. The heater core tends to air lock if it is drained of
coolant. This is why the coolant is best drained by removing the water pump and
not draining the rad and the entire system. Run the engine until you have
good heat in the car with out having to rev the engine. Check and top the
coolant level as needed
COULD BE A BAD BEARING IN THE IDLER PULLY OR THE TENSIONER ON THE TIMING BELT OR THE SERPENTINE BELT. IF ITS A SQUEEL IT MAY BE SOME COOLANT GOT ON THE SERPENTINE BELT. TRY TO WASH THE BELT WITH WATER AND LET DRY COMPLETELY. IF NOISE REMAINS RETURN TO THE SHOP THAT DID THE WORK.
Changing water pump invovles : remove the under cover, draining coolant, remove upper and lower radiator hoses, resservior tank hose, fresh air duct remove engine fan and shroud together loosen altenatormounting bolt and adjustment bolt remove altenator belt and fan pully, remove the 3 fan brakett assembly bolts and brackett assembly, remove the upper and lower timing belt covers . Turn crankshaft so #1 cylinder is at TDC then loosen timing belt tensioner lock bolt and pry tensioner away to loosen belt retighten tensioner lock bolt, remove and inspect timing belt as now is the time to replace bad or worn belt remove the water pump bolts and then same the coolant pump is the plate with the timing belt tensioner and idler pulley and a cogged gear at lower right. clean mating surfaces install in reverse order tighten coolant pump bolts to 16 ft-lb and tihgten tensioner bolt to 32 ft-lb coolant capacity about 7 quarts. be ecofreindly dispose of coolant according to local laws
Disconnect the negative battery cable, then partially drain and recover the cooling system.
Remove the coolant recovery reservoir.
If equipped, remove the A/C belt.
Remove the serpentine belt.
Disconnect the evaporative emission pipe assembly.
Remove the crankshaft pulley assembly.
As outlined earlier, remove the timing belt front cover.
Align the marks on the crankshaft sprocket with the marks on the rear timing belt cover by rotating the crankshaft.
Loosen the water pump retaining bolts, and release the tension with tool J 33039-A or equivalent.
Carefully lower the vehicle, then remove the timing belt.
Fig. 12: Timing belt installation and tightening specifications — 1993–94 2.0L OHC engines
Turn the crankshaft and camshaft gears clockwise to align the timing marks on the gears with the timing marks on the rear cover.
Install the timing belt, making sure that the portion between the camshaft gear and crankshaft gear is in tension.
Using tool J 33039-A, or equivalent adjustment tool, turn the coolant pump eccentric clockwise until the tensioner arm contacts the high torque stop. Tighten the water pump screws slightly.
Turn the engine by the crankshaft gear bolt 720°clockwise to fully seat the belt into the gear teeth.
Turn the coolant pump eccentric counter clockwise until the hole in the tensioner arm is aligned with the hole in the base. This must be done with the engine at room temperature, approximately 68°F (20°C).
Tighten the water pump screws while checking that the tensioner holes remain as adjusted as in step 15.
As outlined earlier, install the timing belt cover.
Install the crankshaft pulley.
Connect the evaporative emission pipe assembly.
Install the serpentine drive belt and the A/C belt (if equipped).
Install the coolant recovery reservoir.
Properly fill the cooling system, then connect the negative battery cable.
Hi, you will need some special tool like : External torx (star)socket, pully and regular tool (# 10,12,14 etc..metric) to change the water pump.First, you need to clear the room for the job because such as Two belts -(alternator,air cond., pump ect and pully) need to disconnected and take out the plastic cover, tire e.t.c. There are about ten bolts. The water pump is inside the plastic cover which turns by the timing belt. I strongly recomment to change the timing belt at the same time ($30.00-timing belt- It last about 80000-90,000 miles). Remember to mark the timing gear carefully when you take the timing belt out. This will help you put the timing belt back in the right degree for the engine perform. Water pump can only replace after the timing belt is disconnected. Take care
hi from uk the 626 water pump is not driven by timing belt but by another drive belt so easy to change after removal of under wing cover to access /see pump b4 you remove drive belt would advise you to slacken off the water pump pully 1st while it is held by drive belt to prevent turning ? then with belt off /pully removed pump is more accessable hope this helps?
If you removed the timing belt to fit the new water pump then you have to reset the timing on camshafts/and bottom pully and ... the bottom pully has a mark on gear and casing and the KEYWAY should be dead straight up. and the camshafts have timing marks on the gears and casing behind the cover..
I had the exact same problem, except it was shredding the belt as well. It even jumped off the pully after just distance down the road. Come to find out the idler (which had been changed out with what was "supposed" to be the right one) was the wrong one. It looked right, but after changing the idler out we have not had this problem again.
1. Remove the alternator & power steering pump drive belts.
2. Remove four (4) 10mm bolts holding the water pump pullys & remove the pullys.
3. Drain the Radiator (save coolant if intend to reuse).
4. Loosen & remove AC compressor belt.
5. Remove crankshaft pully (22mm bolt).
6. Remove lower timing belt cover (10 mm bolts) to access water pump bolts.
7. Remove the water pump (12mm bolts) (1)Remove the 2 bolts, then remove the alternator brace (A).(2)Remove the water pump (B) and gasket.
8. Clean mating surface on engine & install new gasket & pump - reassemble. Refill w/50-50 coolant.
its pretty easy to do so all you have to do is remove both drive belts then unbolt the four bolts on the bottom pully. the double will then come off. remove the top and bottom timing covers in that order you will have to remove the water pump pully first. then mark your timing belt to ensure you get it back in time properly when reassembling. then loosen the timing belt tensenor pull timing belt off and let hang. then remove the water pump bolt then water pump. Install in reverse order. Make sure you clean the mating surface for the water pump.