Question about 1994 Pontiac Bonneville

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Engine doesn't start

Hello, on my 1994 Pontiac Bonniviel the engine doesn't start when you turn the key it's completely dead, the radio,lights, windows,and door sound works and when you touch the starter with a screwdriver it start for a few seconds then off again. the starter has been checked and it's good, the alternator is fine as well. so, my question is could this be an electrical problem or maybe a senor?


Thanks for your time Hagd!
Wild36

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  • wild36
    wild36 Sep 03, 2008

    The battery is not even 3 months old so, i doubt it's the battety but, i never thought of the stater pushing to many amps. thanks for your time!

  • Anonymous Sep 30, 2008

    When my engine starts, I get an clicking sound. But the lights come on, but the engine doesnt start at all. I have to do this like 20 times to get the car started.

  • VHARTLEY2003 Nov 12, 2008

    i have exactly the same problem with my 1994 bonneville. do you have a solution for this problem

















































































  • chairgrrl Nov 14, 2008

    We are dealing with the same problem, and the Security light is on and it won't start. It will only start when it wants to.

  • rudy stone Nov 22, 2008

    the car will do nothing when u turn the key has new battery it is a 94 bonneville

  • Anonymous Mar 14, 2014

    Electrical works after about 60 seconds

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  • 4,402 Answers

Sounds like a electrical problem, either bad battery or starter is drawing to much amps.

Posted on Sep 03, 2008

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Why doesnt my pontiac g6 turn on it makes no nois eor anything and i checked the battery alternator and starter but not the ignition switch


Not enough information.
Is the car completely dead electrically, or does it do things like:
-interior lights operate when door is open
-dash lights operate when key is turned to 'run'
-starter turns when key is turned to 'start'
If you have no electrical power to anything, I would definitely start checking under the hood first. A voltmeter is the tool that will help you the most here.
-Battery terminals tight, battery not dead, cables (both power and ground) carry current where it belongs (zero ohms). Tight electrical connections everywhere.
- The underhood fuse panel contains nearly all the fuses, fusible links, and relays needed for your engine to run. Checking with a voltmeter is quicker than pulling and visually inspecting components.
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What is wrong when you turn the key to start and the radio and all the instruments turn on but the starter doesn't click and the engine doesn't turn on even after trying to jump start it


Dead battery

Dangerous practice to try & jump a dead battery

The battery cables could be loose at either end or corroded internally

Most likely the battery is worn out, if original to car
since it was new, or the starter solenoid is worn

You do not want to jump any vehicle made after the
year 2000 or your asking for possible problems with
todays electronics.

You need a good battery that has been tested & fully
charged, then only jump with a jump pack,not another car

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Everything is dead


Hi eyansdaddy,
Sounds like a bad connection on the battery , check the earth cable on the battery and the one that earths the engine to the bodywork (at the bottom of the engine) if there worn or frayed it can stop the engine from starting. all the best Scott

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I have a 96 pontiac grand am that doesnt start all the time


Starting Problem # 1: Engine Won't Crank At All

Scenario: You turn the key, but nothing happens: And by nothing, we mean there is no dash light, no sound, nada. The first thing you should do in this case is to pop the hood and check the battery. Either the battery is completely dead or there's a wiring problem in the starting system. Try jump-starting the battery. If that doesn't work, you'll probably have to call for assistance.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a rapid clicking sound, and the dash lights dim. This is your classic low-battery symptom. Jump-starting the battery should get the engine to start.However, if you keep experiencing this problem, you could have a bad battery or alternator, or it could be some­thing as simple as a loose alternator belt. Take your car to a mechanic just as soon as you can.

Scenario: When you turn the key, the lights on the dash come on, but you don't hear anything. Make sure you have the shift selector all the way in park. Move it out of park and then back, or try starting it with the shifter in neutral. If your car has a manual transmission, make sure you have the clutch pressed all the way to the floor. If that doesn't help, you can try jump-starting the battery, but it probably won't work. There's a good chance your car has a bad starter or a problem in the starting circuit. That could mean a prob­lem in the ignition switch, neutral safety switch or starter sole­noid.

Scenario: The dash lights come on when you turn the key, and then go right out, and the engine doesn't crank when you turn the key to start, But, the lights slowly come back on when you release the key. This is another classic: the bad battery connection. When you turn the key to start, the starter pulls so much current that it breaks the connection. Then, when you release the key, the connection slowly comes back. The connection provides enough power to turn the dash lights on, but not enough to crank the starter. Cleaning and tightening the battery terminals may fix this prob­lem.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a single, hard clunk. Turn the headlights on and try again. Do the lights dim slightly when you turn the key? If so, you probably have a bad starter or a seized engine. If the headlights don't dim at all, or just barely dim, there may be a connection problem between the starter solenoid and the starter itself.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a loud, scraping or grinding sound like metal on metal. The starter drive is bad, or the ring gear on the flywheel damaged, or both. You may get the starter to engage if you try turning the key a couple of times, but let go of the key right away if you hear the noise again. If the car does start, you should drive it right over to local repair shop and have the problem fixed.

Starting Problem #2: Engine Cranks but It Won't Start

Scenario: The engine seems to crank normally, but the engine doesn't even sound as if it's trying to start. Is there gas in the tank? Gas gauges are notoriously inaccurate. If you have to move your head to one side to get the needle to move off empty, try adding some gas to the tank.

Scenario: When you first turn the key on, you don't hear the fuel pump run. In cars with electronic fuel injection, you should hear a light hum a few seconds from around the fuel tank. That's the electric fuel pump running. If you don't hear the fuel pump run for a couple seconds when you first turn the key on, try cranking the engine until the oil light goes out. That may start the pump running and allow the engine to start.

Scenario: The engine cranks normally, and it sounds like it wants to start, but it won't. You may have flooded the engine. Hold the gas floor and try again. (Let the gas pedal up when it finally starts). If it's raining out, the ignition system may be wet.

Scenario: The engine cranks unevenly in a repetitive-sounding pattern. You may have a bad timing chain or timing belt. Call a tow truck and have it towed to the repair shop.


Starting Problem # 3: Engine Starts but It Shuts Off

Scenario: The engine starts right up, but shuts off as soon as you release the key. This is the classic symptom of a bad ignition switch. A new switch should fix it.

Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but when you put the transmission in gear, the car lurches and the engine shuts off. The converter clutch in the transmission torque converter probably is engaging when it shouldn't. On some cars, you can bypass this by disconnecting the torque converter clutch solenoid; but unless you know which wire to pull, forget about it. Call for assistance.

Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but seems to idle slowly and stalls when you come to a stop. This probably is a fast idle problem. When the engine is cold, it's supposed to idle a little faster than normal to keep the engine running. You may be able to drive using two feet until the engine warms up: one on the gas to hold the idle up a little and the other for the brake. However, don't keep driving it this way. Take your car to your repair shop just as soon as you

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Does the engine turn over? If it does, then check to see if the check engine light comes on when you turn the key to the on position. If it doesn't, then the PCM is not receiving power. Check the orange power wire usually located by the battery to make sure it isn't damaged. Repair if necessary. If the check engine light comes on when the key is turned to on then crank the engine while observing the light. Does it go out while cranking? If it doesn't, then a problem with the crank sensor signal is indicated. If it does go out then the problem might be fuel related. Disconnect the air cleaner hose to the throttle body. Have someone crank the engine over while opening the throttle slightly. Spray starting fluid into the engine to see if it tries to start. If it does then a fuel related problem is indicated.
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This ans other details can find it in this link for 1996 Pontiac Sunfire - Owners Manual.

I hope helps (remember to rate and comment this).

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