My 94 S10 pick up starts right up at cold. But after driving till hot and let stand a while, it wont start unless pedal is givin. Engine also now has a fast shake at idle, but drives fine. spark is there, fuel pressure is at 52 psi running. The pressure should be a little higher, but I dont think thats it. I'm leaning twords intake leak. Would someone have an idea as to what this could be? I would like to add that i just did fuel pump and dampner. Does the dampner go on one way only? Injector assembly was done about three years ago but only about 15000 miles ago. Also not holding pressure after pump initiation before start.
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Possibly a bad or dirty Idle Air Control motor. The engine computer controls the operation of this motor to control idle speed. A pintle on the motor extends and retracts, according to signal from the computer. The pintle controls an air passage below it to give or take away air during idle -when the throttle shaft is closed, no air will get into the engine through the throttle body except through the idle air passage . The IAC motor or valve is on the throttle body, with a 4 wire connector. Take it off and look for carbon or coking deposits around the valve's pintle, and in the air passage beneath it. With the idle valve off, plug the connector back on it, then watch the pintle as the key is turned to on. If there is no movement whatsoever, the motor is probably bad.
I have also heard that a bad coolant temperature sensor can cause such a hard start. If the computer does not know the engine is cold, it won't put enough gas into the cylinders for easy starts. The engine needs more gas to start and run when cold.
It sounds like you have a "flooding" problem, where you are getting too much fuel on the warm start. It takes more fuel to start a cold engine than a warm one. By holding the pedal the pedal to the floor, you are telling the computer to do a "clear flood" operation, and that lets you start the car. The culprit is probably the Coolant Temperature Sensor. If this is faulty, it will tell the computer that that the coolant (thus the engine) is much cooler than it really is. This results in the engine flooding when warm. It may also run rough at idle after warm start since it is still getting too much fuel. You will also notice a massive loss of fuel economy. Replace the coolant temperature sensor.
This should be a drive by wire vehicle meaning it has a cable for the throttle body. First thing would be to see if any error codes can be pulled up (most parts stores will do that for free.) Drive by wire versus the late model that use electronic control for the idle have a IAC or idle air control which when first started controls the idle air intake--all air is run by it to idle the vehicle when cold--
Usual symptoms are rather high idle when cold engine or even idle and RPM jumping up and down and stalling when cold.
Another way if idle does drop when cold is tapping the gas--engine will still run until hot. Means not usually a fuel pump issue.
You could also have if the vehicle is fuel injected a dirty Mass air flow sensor, a throttle position sensor, etc.
These can be if the vehicle has them cleaned using a special zero residue spray cleaner.
First have it scanned to see what if any errors it shows--the computer.
When a vehicle start from a cold start it is in open loop,it gets more fuel,resistance on the sensors are low,so is the ignition coil.When you say you replaced the distributor is that with a pick up? You also need to inspect the pick up terminal for corrosion. and bad connection,this also goes for the ICM which is recommended when you replace the pick up and you need to inspect ICM connection for corrosion and poor connection