Question about 1995 Isuzu Rodeo

2 Answers

Coolant hoses I just had a coolant hose burst,it was a high preasure hose that goes between the aluminum block and a 1/4 " tube to the intake area. Where can I find hoses for this vehicle,as Id like to replace others too? Besides the Dealer...is it a good idea to get them from the Junk Yard?

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Coolant hoses should NEVER come from the junlyard, if it is a hose that your local parts store can,t get, then the dealer or internet searches are your only options

Posted on Sep 03, 2008

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It's not a good idea to get junk yard hoses. They may be in the same shape as what you all ready have or worse. I haven't had a problem finding any of the hoses for an Isuzu at any parts store. I usually go to CSK (Checker Shucks Kragen). They have just been bought out by O-Reilly's Auto Parts. Autozone should have the hoses that you're after as well.

Posted on Sep 03, 2008

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2002 bonneville coolant leak


check water pump hose and the pump. a clogged thermostat can cause pressure build up and bust hoses. and of course take radiator out and check for lower hoses and crackes. if no luck, put water in radiator and run car and check for leaks. small cracks in aluminum are hard to see but expands when radiator gets hot.

Jul 14, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

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Loosing coolant no visible leaks about 1/2 gallon every 100 miles


How To Find & Fix Coolant Leaks

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WHERE COOLANT LEAKS OCCUR
Coolant leaks can occur anywhere in the cooling system. Nine out of ten times, coolant leaks are easy to find because the coolant can be seen dripping, spraying, seeping or bubbling from the leaky component. Open the hood and visually inspect the engine and cooling system for any sign of liquid leaking from the engine, radiator or hoses. The color of the coolant may be green, orange or yellow depending on the type of antifreeze in the system. The most common places where coolant may be leaking are:
Water pump -- A bad shaft seal will allow coolant to dribble out of the vent hole just under the water pump pulley shaft. If the water pump is a two-piece unit with a backing plate, the gasket between the housing and back cover may be leaking. The gasket or o-ring that seals the pump to the engine front cover on cover-mounted water pumps can also leak coolant. Look for stains, discoloration or liquid coolant on the outside of the water pump or engine.

Radiator -- Radiators can develop leaks around upper or loser hose connections as a result of vibration. The seams where the core is mated to the end tanks is another place where leaks frequently develop, especially on aluminum radiators with plastic end tanks. On copper/brass radiators, leaks typically occur where the cooling tubes in the core are connected or soldered to the core headers. The core itself is also vulnerable to stone damage. Internal corrosion caused by old coolant that has never been changed can also eat through the metal in the radiator, causing it to leak.

Most cooling systems today are designed to operate at 8 to 14 psi. If the radiator can't hold pressure, your engine will overheat and lose coolant.

Hoses -- Cracks, pinholes or splits in a radiator hose or heater hose will leak coolant. A hose leak will usually send a stream of hot coolant spraying out of the hose. A corroded hose connection or a loose or damaged hose clamp may also allow coolant to leak from the end of a hose. Sometimes the leak may only occur once the hose gets hot and the pinhole or crack opens up.

Freeze plugs -- These are the casting plugs or expansion plugs in the sides of the engine block and/or cylinder head. The flat steel plugs corroded from the inside out, and may develop leaks that are hard to see because of the plug's location behind the exhaust manifold, engine mount or other engine accessories. On V6 and V8 blocks, the plugs are most easily inspected from underneath the vehicle.

Heater Core -- The heater core is located inside the heating ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) unit under the dash. It is out of sight so you cannot see a leak directly. But if the heater core is leaking (or a hose connection to the heater core is leaking), coolant will be seeping out of the bottom of the HVAC unit and dripping on the floor inside the passenger compartment. Look for stains or wet spots on the bottom of the plastic HVAC case, or on the passenger side floor.

Intake Manifold gasket -- The gasket that seals the intake manifold to the cylinder heads may leak and allow coolant to enter the intake port, crankcase or dribble down the outside of the engine. Some engines such as General Motors 3.1L and 3.4L V6 engines as well as 4.3L, 5.0L and 5.7L V8s are notorious for leaky intake manifold gaskets. The intake manifold gaskets on these engines are plastic and often fail at 50,000 to 80,000 miles. Other troublesome applications include the intake manifold gaskets on Buick 3800 V6 and Ford 4.0L V6 engines.

INTERNAL COOLANT LEAKS
There are the worst kind of coolant leaks for two reasons. One is that they are impossible to see because they are hidden inside the engine. The other is that internal coolant leaks can be very expensive to repair.

Bad head gasket --Internal coolant leaks are most often due to a bad head gasket. The head gasket may leak coolant into a cylinder, or into the crankcase. Coolant leaks into the crankcase dilute the oil and can damage the bearings in your engine. A head gasket leaking coolant into a cylinder can foul the spark plug, and create a lot of white smoke in the exhaust. Adding sealer to the cooling system may plug the leak if it is not too bad, but eventually the head gasket will have to be replaced.

If you suspect a head gasket leak, have the cooling system pressure tested. If it fails to hold pressure, there is an internal leak. A "block tester" can also be used to diagnose a leaky head gasket. This device draws air from the cooling system into a chamber that contains a special blue colored leak detection liquid. Combustion gases will react with the liquid and cause it to change color from blue to green if the head gasket is leaking.

Head gasket failures are often the result of engine overheating (which may have occurred because of a coolant leak elsewhere in the cooling system, a bad thermostat, or an electric cooling fan not working). When the engine overheats, thermal expansion can crush and damage portions of the head gasket. This damaged areas may then start to leak combustion pressure and/or coolant.

Cracked Head or Block -- Internal coolant leaks can also occur if the cylinder head or engine block has a crack in a cooling jacket. A combustion chamber leak in the cylinder head or block will leak coolant into the cylinder. This dilutes the oil on the cylinder walls and can damage the piston and rings. If the coolant contains silicates (conventional green antifreeze), it can also foul the oxygen sensor and catalytic converter. If enough coolant leaks into the cylinder (as when the engine is sitting overnight), it may even hydro-lock the engine and prevent it from cranking when you try to start it. Internal leaks such as these can be diagnosed by pressure testing the cooling system or using a block checker.

A coolant leak into the crankcase is also bad news because it can damage the bearings. Coolant leaking into the crankcase will make the oil level on the dipstick appear to be higher than normal. The oil may also appear frothy, muddy or discolored because of the coolant contamination.

Leaky ATF oil cooler -- Internal coolant leakage can also occur in the automatic transmission fluid oil cooler inside the radiator. On most vehicles with automatic transmissions, ATF is routed through an oil cooler inside the radiator. If the tubing leaks, coolant can enter the transmission lines, contaminate the fluid and ruin the transmission. Red or brown drops of oil in the coolant would be a symptom of such a leak. Because the oil cooler is inside the radiator, the radiator must be replaced to eliminate the problem. The transmission fluid should also be changed.

continue...

Mar 12, 2010 | 1998 Oldsmobile 88

1 Answer

Loosing antifreeze


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WHERE COOLANT LEAKS OCCUR
Coolant leaks can occur anywhere in the cooling system. Nine out of ten times, coolant leaks are easy to find because the coolant can be seen dripping, spraying, seeping or bubbling from the leaky component. Open the hood and visually inspect the engine and cooling system for any sign of liquid leaking from the engine, radiator or hoses. The color of the coolant may be green, orange or yellow depending on the type of antifreeze in the system. The most common places where coolant may be leaking are:
Water pump -- A bad shaft seal will allow coolant to dribble out of the vent hole just under the water pump pulley shaft. If the water pump is a two-piece unit with a backing plate, the gasket between the housing and back cover may be leaking. The gasket or o-ring that seals the pump to the engine front cover on cover-mounted water pumps can also leak coolant. Look for stains, discoloration or liquid coolant on the outside of the water pump or engine.

Radiator -- Radiators can develop leaks around upper or loser hose connections as a result of vibration. The seams where the core is mated to the end tanks is another place where leaks frequently develop, especially on aluminum radiators with plastic end tanks. On copper/brass radiators, leaks typically occur where the cooling tubes in the core are connected or soldered to the core headers. The core itself is also vulnerable to stone damage. Internal corrosion caused by old coolant that has never been changed can also eat through the metal in the radiator, causing it to leak.

Most cooling systems today are designed to operate at 8 to 14 psi. If the radiator can't hold pressure, your engine will overheat and lose coolant.

Hoses -- Cracks, pinholes or splits in a radiator hose or heater hose will leak coolant. A hose leak will usually send a stream of hot coolant spraying out of the hose. A corroded hose connection or a loose or damaged hose clamp may also allow coolant to leak from the end of a hose. Sometimes the leak may only occur once the hose gets hot and the pinhole or crack opens up.

Freeze plugs -- These are the casting plugs or expansion plugs in the sides of the engine block and/or cylinder head. The flat steel plugs corroded from the inside out, and may develop leaks that are hard to see because of the plug's location behind the exhaust manifold, engine mount or other engine accessories. On V6 and V8 blocks, the plugs are most easily inspected from underneath the vehicle.

Heater Core -- The heater core is located inside the heating ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) unit under the dash. It is out of sight so you cannot see a leak directly. But if the heater core is leaking (or a hose connection to the heater core is leaking), coolant will be seeping out of the bottom of the HVAC unit and dripping on the floor inside the passenger compartment. Look for stains or wet spots on the bottom of the plastic HVAC case, or on the passenger side floor.

Intake Manifold gasket -- The gasket that seals the intake manifold to the cylinder heads may leak and allow coolant to enter the intake port, crankcase or dribble down the outside of the engine. Some engines such as General Motors 3.1L and 3.4L V6 engines as well as 4.3L, 5.0L and 5.7L V8s are notorious for leaky intake manifold gaskets. The intake manifold gaskets on these engines are plastic and often fail at 50,000 to 80,000 miles. Other troublesome applications include the intake manifold gaskets on Buick 3800 V6 and Ford 4.0L V6 engines.

INTERNAL COOLANT LEAKS
There are the worst kind of coolant leaks for two reasons. One is that they are impossible to see because they are hidden inside the engine. The other is that internal coolant leaks can be very expensive to repair.

Bad head gasket --Internal coolant leaks are most often due to a bad head gasket. The head gasket may leak coolant into a cylinder, or into the crankcase. Coolant leaks into the crankcase dilute the oil and can damage the bearings in your engine. A head gasket leaking coolant into a cylinder can foul the spark plug, and create a lot of white smoke in the exhaust. Adding sealer to the cooling system may plug the leak if it is not too bad, but eventually the head gasket will have to be replaced.

If you suspect a head gasket leak, have the cooling system pressure tested. If it fails to hold pressure, there is an internal leak. A "block tester" can also be used to diagnose a leaky head gasket. This device draws air from the cooling system into a chamber that contains a special blue colored leak detection liquid. Combustion gases will react with the liquid and cause it to change color from blue to green if the head gasket is leaking.

Head gasket failures are often the result of engine overheating (which may have occurred because of a coolant leak elsewhere in the cooling system, a bad thermostat, or an electric cooling fan not working). When the engine overheats, thermal expansion can crush and damage portions of the head gasket. This damaged areas may then start to leak combustion pressure and/or coolant.

Cracked Head or Block -- Internal coolant leaks can also occur if the cylinder head or engine block has a crack in a cooling jacket. A combustion chamber leak in the cylinder head or block will leak coolant into the cylinder. This dilutes the oil on the cylinder walls and can damage the piston and rings. If the coolant contains silicates (conventional green antifreeze), it can also foul the oxygen sensor and catalytic converter. If enough coolant leaks into the cylinder (as when the engine is sitting overnight), it may even hydro-lock the engine and prevent it from cranking when you try to start it. Internal leaks such as these can be diagnosed by pressure testing the cooling system or using a block checker.

A coolant leak into the crankcase is also bad news because it can damage the bearings. Coolant leaking into the crankcase will make the oil level on the dipstick appear to be higher than normal. The oil may also appear frothy, muddy or discolored because of the coolant contamination.

Leaky ATF oil cooler -- Internal coolant leakage can also occur in the automatic transmission fluid oil cooler inside the radiator. On most vehicles with automatic transmissions, ATF is routed through an oil cooler inside the radiator. If the tubing leaks, coolant can enter the transmission lines, contaminate the fluid and ruin the transmission. Red or brown drops of oil in the coolant would be a symptom of such a leak. Because the oil cooler is inside the radiator, the radiator must be replaced to eliminate the problem. The transmission fluid should also be changed.

continue..

Mar 12, 2010 | 2007 Hummer H3X

1 Answer

Hello, i have a coolant leak i thought it was the water pump but the leak is above the mount bolt of the water pump beside the valve cover no coolant has gone in the valve interior, could it be a cracked...


A crack in that area of the block, while possible, is highly unlikely. A crack in the block usually happens in between the cylinder walls on the side of the block. It is most likely leaking from the intake manifold gasket that connects the intake manifold to the heads, or if the upper radiator hose connects to the intake manifold, it could be leaking from the thermostat housing or hose. There are also coolant temperature sensors that are mounted in that area. Or last but not least, it could be leaking from one of the freeze plugs in the end of the head. Coolant runs through the block, heads and intake manifold.

Jan 03, 2010 | Chevrolet 1500 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to change a thermastat 1994 ford escort with a 1.9 engine


1.9L Engine

CAUTION Never open, service or drain the radiator or cooling system when hot; serious burns can occur from the steam and hot coolant. Also, when draining engine coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted to ethylene glycol antifreeze and could drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantities. Always drain coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or is several years old.
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Drain the cooling system.
  3. Remove the air intake tube, crankcase breather and PCV hose.
  4. Remove the ignition coil pack and bracket.
  5. Remove the upper radiator hose.
  6. Remove the ignition coil pack bracket.
  7. Unfasten the heater hose inlet tube bracket bolt and remove the heater hose inlet tube from the thermostat housing.
  8. Remove the three thermostat housing attaching bolts, then remove the thermostat housing and gasket.
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Fig: Remove the ignition coil pack


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Fig. : Detach the air intake tube, crankcase breather and PCV hose


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Fig. : Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the radiator


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Fig. : Unfasten the ignition coil pack bracket upper bolts...

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Fig. : ...and the lower bracket bolt, then remove the bracket

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Fig. : Unfasten the heater hose inlet tube bracket bolt (arrow)

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Fig: Unfasten the heater hose inlet tube-to-thermostat housing clamp


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Fig.: Disconnect the hose inlet tube from the thermostat housing

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Fig. : Unfasten the three thermostat housing bolts


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Fig. Separate the thermostat housing from the engine block


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Fig. : Remove the thermostat from the housing


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Fig. : Use a scraper to clean old gasket material from the engine block's thermostat housing mating surface ...


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Fig. : ... as well as the thermostat housing

continue...





Oct 29, 2009 | 1994 Ford Escort

2 Answers

WATER FLOWING OUT OF REAR OF ENGIN


there is a coolant bypass hose and tube. if that is wear it is coming from then it could be difficult to change

Jun 04, 2009 | 1996 Isuzu Trooper

1 Answer

I need to know what the part is called and how to fix it. The part is leaking hot coolant fluid, it is a ''y'' shape tubing that feels like hard plastic, black in color. It runs on the left side to the...


sounds like hoses going to heater core but they are rubber usually. But it could be the hoses for the degs bottle mounted on the passenger side inner fender.

Coolant Recovery System NOTE: When the water thermostat (8575) is closed, coolant flows through the degas tube and hose assembly from the lower intake manifold to the radiator coolant recovery reservoir (8A080) .

Trapped air in the cooling system must be removed. A pressurized radiant coolant recovery reservoir system is used which continuously separates the air from the cooling system.
  • When the water thermostat is open, coolant flows through both the small hose from the top of the radiator outlet tank and the degas tube and hose assembly from the engine to the radiator coolant recovery reservoir.
  • The radiator coolant recovery reservoir separates any trapped air from the coolant and replenishes the system through its radiator coolant recovery hose.
  • The radiator coolant recovery reservoir serves as the location for:
    • service fill.
    • coolant expansion during warm-up.
    • system pressurization from the pressure relief cap.
    • air separation during operation.
  • The radiator coolant recovery reservoir is designed to have approximately 0.5-1 liter (0.53-1.06 quarts) of air when cold to allow for coolant expansion

Apr 08, 2009 | 1995 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

Overheating 2001 pontiac aztek


remove coolant.remove thermostat remove bottom radiator hose to water pump.put a empty container under the radiator.take a water hose put it where thermostat goes flush out the rust in block.watch the water as it come out the water pump .if stream water is small keep flushing until you get a study sream of clear water. also flush out radiator. lower water pressure dont flush radiator it with high water pressure you could burst it. make clean the over flow jug .make sure it not stopped up.put in a new thermostat and radiator pressure cap. fill radiator with half antifreeze and half water.bleed the coolant system.

Apr 05, 2009 | 2001 Pontiac Aztek

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