Tip & How-To about GMC Sierra 2500HD

Avoid dropping nuts and bolts out of your socket, or wrench!!

How frustrating is it , when you are trying to start a nut, or bolt, in a tight area, or in a recessed area, where fingers don't fit? All you have to do, is tear off a small piece of paper, wrap the head of the nut, or bolt, and firmly push the fastner into the socket, or wrench. Not only will this keep the fastner snug in the tool, it will save potential hours of recovering lost fastners. Good luck...Coop

Posted by on

Cars & Trucks Logo

Related Topics:

Related Questions:

1 Answer

2000 impala red circle recessed in radiator is leaking replace repair? ect...

It seems that the "black bolt" is the bolt-shaped sheet metal around the fitting for your trans cooler line. If you are certain that your connection is good and the leak is coming from around that fitting then you will have to replace your radiator as the area around the fitting is probably cracked. Take a good close-up look, with an inspection mirror and a light, to try to determine from where the fluid is leaking.
Does your other line have an O-ring?

Nov 28, 2011 | 2000 Chevrolet Impala

1 Answer

only three of the torque converter bolts will line up with the drive plate

It will only bolt up in 1 of the 4 possible locations. With the trans removed you can find a small hole in the flex plate between 2 of the crankshaft bolts. The weight welded on the outside of the converter goes 180° from it.
With the trans installed trial and error is your only method. Put the bolts in finger tight one at a time. if you get to one that does not line up, remove them all and turn the converter 90° and start over. Once all 4 bolts are finger tight DON"T FORGET to tighten them all.

Mar 02, 2011 | Dodge Ram 1500 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

ignition switch is broke

Here are procedures for removing the ignitionlock assy. If equipped with SRS, extra care must be taken while removing ang installing to avoid damage to the SRS cable reel.

1. Remove steering wheel and combination switch (if necessary). Disconnect ignition switch harness connectors. If shear bolt studs are accessible, use a hacksaw to cut slots into exposed studs.

2. Remove studs using a screwdriver. If shear bolt studs are recessed or hard to reach with hacksaw, use a center punch on studs. Using a drill bit and screw extractor, remove studs. Place key in ACC position and remove ignition switch and lock cylinder.


To install, reverse removal procedure. Install NEW shear bolts. Tighten shear bolts finger tight. Ensure proper operation of ignition switch and lock cylinder. Tighten shear bolts until heads break off. Install combination switch, upper and lower steering column covers and steering wheel (if removed). Tighten steering wheel nut and Torx screws to specification.

Sep 26, 2010 | 1996 Toyota Avalon

1 Answer

The bracket that attaches to the pulley for the fan belt (near alternator) keeps snaping in two. Happened 3 times - any idea of why and what to do to stop it happening??

Unfortunately, there's a hidden 10 mm nut on the backside/lower part of the Alternator bracket that needs to be loosened before rolling the splined bolt in front, to 75 inch pounds. It was originally made to "jam" within the skinny part of the bracket in the back when loosening it, but it just rolls within the bracket not allowing the belt to be properly tensioned. To preform this operation now, you must first remove the air cleaner box, mass air flow sensor, the hoses and bellows going to the throttle body and only then, can you take a 10 mm open end wrench and place it directly over the nut to help "jam" it while unscrewing the bolt on the front side. In tightening the belt with the 10 mm nut still tight, it will crack the front bracket of the Alternator every time. Sometimes you can't even see the nut, but reach below the power steering pump and to the bottom of the Alternator and you'll notice a "I-Beam" type of cavity on that bracket leading towards the driver's side of the car. Use your little finger to feel it so you can place the wrench directly over top of it...not on it for the wrench will not fit that way. After your belt adjustment is done, you'll have the same problem in tightening that nut back up. Whatever you do, don't take the nut all the way off! It will only lead to your frustration in putting this "Nylock" nut back on. A 3/8" or 1/4" air ratchet works the best on the 13 mm bolt on the front side of the Alternator. Actually, if you don't have a 10 mm wrench, use a thick bladed flat screwdriver to jam the nut, so it won't turn while you're loosening the front bolt.

"00 Buck"

Nov 06, 2009 | 2007 BMW 530xi Sports Wagon

2 Answers

can you discribe the proceedure to replace the front wheel bearing on a 94 volvo 850 Thanks Rob

front wheel bearing comes as complete hub assembly remove brake calliper and brake disc remove drive shaft nut at the back of hub housing there are some bolts wire brush this area well use penetrating oil remove the bolts tap hub out of housing can be tight so take your time clean housing well then fit new hub secure bolts fit and tourqe up hub drive shaft nut fit disc and calliper

Oct 22, 2009 | 1994 Volvo 850

Not finding what you are looking for?

2,007 people viewed this tip

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top GMC Experts


Level 3 Expert

79847 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22326 Answers

Ronny Bennett Sr.
Ronny Bennett Sr.

Level 3 Expert

6927 Answers

Are you a GMC Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions