Tip & How-To about 2001 BMW M5

BMW Oil Service reset for 2001

I did a change today and there were a couple of things I figured out that made it easier. 1. Get a 1/4" drive stubby flex-head ratchet. The one I picked up is about 4 inches long, and it made the job SO much easier! 2. All of the screws and nuts for the cover, the electrical harness retainers and the ignition coils are 10mm. It's the only size socket you need for that part of the job. You will find that having a deep socket and a regular socket is helpful. If the deep socket is a 3/8 drive with a 3/8 to 1/4 drive adapter, that's even better. 3. A standard "small" spark plug socket works fine. You need one with a rubber insert that will hold a plug and not drop it, and that won't come out when you pull it off the back of the plug after installation. 4. You need to have a long extension for the spark plug socket - I used a 9" and a 12" together. Use the "wobble" kind from Craftsman - you can't get a straight shot at any of the plugs, but the angles you need are small. 5. The existing plugs are tight. Use a long handled ratchet or breaker bar on the long extension to crack them loose. They'll unscrew easily after that. 6. Use a torque wrench to tighten the new plugs. 30 N-M is the spec, and if you use BMW spark plugs, the torque is on the box. 7. Do the driver's side first. It's the most challenging (it's not that hard, just tedious) and so you should get it out of the way first. Disassembly instructions: Starting on the driver's side, pop the cabin air filter box off (I won't provide instructions, but it's easy - same process you use to gain access to the brake master cylinder). Rotate the cabin air intake air snorkel toward the engine to make a little more room. Don't remove the snorkel, you don't need to. Undo the two cap nuts that hold the cover on. This will be your first opportunity to use the stubby 1/4 drive ratchet. The rubber bushings around the nuts and the washers are all separate and loose, but they stick together from the heat. Don't drop them when you take it apart. Pull the cover loose from it's gasket and slide it forward and out. Undo the two nuts that hold the wiring harness for the coils. I cracked withm with the stubby ratched and a socket, and then used the 3/8 drive deep socket as a nut-driver to remove the nuts. Using the socket allows you to turn the nuts without the risk of dropping them. Pull the harness away from its studs, and then remove all 8 nuts that hold the coils in place. Again, each one will have a different challenge because of the cramped quarters. I used the stubby ratchet and a socket to crack them, and then used the deep socket as a hand tool to remove them. Once the coils are loose, but still in place, use a screwdriver blade to pop the shiny metal brackets on the coils up. Slip it into the slot below the bracket and twist gently - the brackets lock the connectors, so pull the brackets up as far as they'll come (about 1/2 inch or so) and then gently pull or push the black connector off toward the rear of the car. They're EASY to take apart, so you shouldn't be struggling with them. Starting from the front of the engine (Cylinder 5) undo the connectors and grab the coils under the "ears" that go over the studs, and pull them out - again, you can be gentle because they come out quite easily. I took all four out and set them aside. At this point, you're looking at the four spark plugs deep (really deep - remember the 21 inch extension?) in their openings in the cylinder head. Using the long extension, remove the old plugs and screw in the new ones. Torque to 30 newton meters. This is the easiest part of the job! Once the plugs are changed, put it back together in the reverse order to taking it apart. Install the coils from the back of the engine to the front. The way I did it, I slipped the coil back onto its studs and did up the electrical connection. The push down on the bracket to lock the electrical connection also seats the coil onto the top of the plug. Once all the coils are in and hooked up, put all the nuts back on the coils and tighten them. Then reposition the wiring harness and install the two nuts that hold it in place. With all the wiring, coils and plugs back where they belong, it's time to put the outer cover back on. On the driver's side, but not the passenger's side, you will have to wrestle with the rubber sealing boot where the wiring harness enters the outer cover at the back near the firewall. On the drivers side, the brake lines keep the cover close to the head, and you have to coax the rubber boot, which has a slot in it, to pop into the corresponding opening in the cover. The natural tendency is for the "top" to slip in nicely, and for the bottom to firmly resist going back into place. The trick is to push the top of the boot back and seat the "bottom" and then wiggle the top forward into place. That works! On the passenger side, there's enough room to just pull the cover back and slip it over the boot. No struggling required. Anyway, once you have the boot properly seated in the cover, put the two cover cap nuts back on and tighten them. They bottom, so torque them gently after they stop turning and you're done. Now do the other side. There's more room on the passenger's side, so it goes quicker with less contortions. Total time - 1.5 to 2 hours.

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I am changing the high pressure power steering hose on a 95 6cyl Cutlass ciera 4dr. Any tricks or tips to make it easier? thinkin bout lifting the engine a couple inches


Removing the fitting from the pump is easy. I found that removing the Coolant reservoir and the plastic shroud that protects electrical wires from the S. belt and pulleys makes it easier to remove the mounting bracket down below. It is the fitting that attaches to the steering column is where the difficulties are. I found that by removing the air box and flex tube to the throttle body helped me gain limited access to the fitting. you can us a "crows foot" (18mm I believe) a short extension and a ratchet may be the answer to reaching the fitting. A stubby 18mm box wrench may work too, but its pretty tight in there. Hope this helped Tim

Apr 24, 2011 | 1995 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera

1 Answer

replacing timing belt on 1984 toyota hilux


This is a little walk through of replacing the timing chain guide (straight guide, not the curved) without taking apart the whole front end of the motor apart. This is a difficulty rating 3/5, though this was really easy for me, many others may find this pretty tricky to do. You will need to take it slow and not to rush this process. It took me just under 30 minutes to do this, but you can look at it taking around an hour or more. There are tools you will need to have to do this job or else you will have to tear down the timing cover which is rated at 11.9 hours on a 4wd with power steering and A/C.

I have performed this on three Toyota trucks, all a success!

First off is the tools you will need, one is the most crucial and that is a long double box end, 0° Offset wrench, one side needs to be a 12mm. This tool is what makes it all possible.
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Other tools as followed:
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From top to bottom:
a) extra long, heavy duty (cannot flex) flat blade screw driver
b) 19mm shallow socket x2
c) 1/2' torque wrench
d) long 1/2' ratchet (flex head makes it a little easier)
e) 12mm 0° Offset wrench (has to be at least a foot long, this is the most important tool!!!)
f) 1/2' standard lenght ratchet

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continued:
g) part pickup tool
h) 1/4' standard ratchet
i) medium length extension with 8mm socket
j) 1/4' long flex head ratchet (optional)
k) regular 12mm wrench

(not pictures is a 12mm socket to be used on the flex head 1/4' ratchet during removal of valve cover)


Now for the guide replacement:
1. REMOVE VALVE COVER
(a) Remove the ground strap from the body.
(b) Remove the four nuts and seals.
(c) Remove the valve cover.
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2. REMOVE CAM SPROCKET BOLT
(a) Turn the crankshaft (using the 1/2' short ratchet with 19mm socket) until the No. 1 cylinder position is
set at TDC compression. (note take off distributor cap to verify firing on #1 cylinder. MARK on the distributor with marker or paint pen for the position of the rotor!!!)
(b) Place matchmarks on the sprocket and chain.
(c) Remove the half-circular plug.
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(d) Remove the cam sprocket bolt. **(torque spec is 60ftlbs) (keeping the crankshaft in place with the smaller 1/2' ratchet, and using the long one to break the bolt loose, after that yoy should be able to unscrew by hand)
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3. REMOVE DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE GEAR AND CAM-
SHAFT THRUST PLATE (the distributor rotor will move out of place, thus the importance of marking the distributor)
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4. REMOVE CAM SPROCKET
Remove the cam sprocket and chain from the cam-
shaft and leave on the vibration damper.
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a) once you remove the cam sprocket, using string or wire, tie the chain off the the side out of the way.
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(note: the purple wire holding the chain the the throttle body side)
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b) once the chain is out of the way, using the long box 12mm 0° Offset wrench to take out the two bolts holding the straight guide in place(be extra carefull when taking out the bolts as they can fall into the oil pan). Take your time on this step since it is the most time consuming. Pull out all the old pieces of the old guide and once complete, install the new guide taking care to not drop the bolts. It is easier to install the top bolt first, but not tight as the guide will need to be able to move a little when installing the bottom bolt. The bottom bolt is the trickiest to install but patience is key here. Once the bottom is tight, set the top bolt tight as well and reinstall the rest of the components in reverse order!

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Dec 19, 2010 | Toyota 4Runner Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

I would like to know how to chang the back 3 spark plugs on 95 voyger Thanks Reg rbowen01@telus.net


the easiest way is to remove the wiper assy, only takes a few minutes and you can get to the whole back side of the engine.

Oct 14, 2009 | 1995 Plymouth Voyager

2 Answers

how to remove starter from 1995 ford crown victoria


yes they are very difficult to get to.
its just the top one and some mechanics leave them out after starter replacement.
it sounds bad but true.
i use either a stubby 10 mm wrench and a prybar to break it loose,
or a 3/8 ratchet and a wobble extenion and socket. it has to be the perfect length using different extensions to reach and still fit with the ratchet handle at the back of the starter.
sorry but it can be done.....
no stubby wrench, cut one

Dec 05, 2008 | 1999 Ford Crown Victoria

2 Answers

86 toyota cressida. how to remove the upper starter bolt since there is NO clearance for any sockets or your hands?


Holy hell these engines are tight. I had the same prob with my 88. Finally figured it out with about a good foot and a half of ratchet extensions. It'll help if they have wobbles on the end. You'll have to guide the socket by feel (cause you can't see the bolt, but once you're on it the extentions should get your ratchet in a spot where you can give it a good 1/4 turn

best of luck!

Jul 23, 2008 | 1988 Toyota Cressida

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