Tip & How-To about Acura Integra


Get the most out of your brakes, be sure to leave enough space at least 3-4 car lengths between you and the car ahead of you allowing you to stop without panicing and slamming on the brakes, causing excessive heat build up etc.(don't tailgate drive).
Also try to replace your old brake shoes/pads with a better quality, don't just look at price, cheaper means less metallic and quicker wear of the pads than the better ones.
Make certain you dont have any brake calipers that have sticky pistons causing the pads to rub excessively on the rotors, not allowing the pads to come back to there rest position.(retract)
Be certain you don't have leaking calipers/wheel cylinders as well and check the brake hoses for cracks, breaks, leaks, replace those that do.
When replacing the disc pads be sure to use all new brake hardware to keep the pads and calipers in good working order.
Use the proper brake fluid the new cars are being called out for today, generally type lll or lV.
Happy Motoring!!!

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Brakes go hard and car won't stop. Ford Mondeo 2008 Diesal estate automatic.

Your brake master cylinder is not providing the hydraulic assist to operate the power brakes. Replace unit and bleed brakes.

Mar 07, 2016 | 2008 Ford Mondeo 2.0

1 Answer

how to bleed clutch 2007 compass


1. Verify fluid level in brake master cylinder. Top off with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary. Leave cap off.

2. Raise vehicle on hoist.

3. Remove bleed port protective cap and install suitable size and length of clear hose (4) to monitor and divert fluid into suitable container.

4. Open up the bleed circuit by turning the thumb screw (3) counter clockwise this will start the air purge and fluid fill process.

5. Lower vehicle, but only enough to gain access to and fill the brake master cylinder. NOTE: Do not allow clutch master cylinder to run dry while fluid exits bleed port.

6. Top off brake master cylinder fluid level while air is purged and fluid drains from bleed port. Continue this until no air bubbles are seen and a solid column of fluid exists.

7. Close hydraulic bleed circuit, remove drain hose and replace dust cap on bleed port.

8. From driver's seat, actuate clutch pedal 60-100 times.

9. Apply parking brake. Start engine and verify clutch operation and pedal feel. If pedal feels fine and clutch operates as designed, stop here. If pedal still feels spongy or clutch does not fully disengage, excessive air is still trapped within the system, most likely at the master cylinder.

10. Top off brake master cylinder fluid level with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.


1. Remove reservoir cap and connect bleeder cap to reservoir. NOTE: Use Bleeder Cap/Modified reservoir cap adapter Snap-on #901-059 or equivalent.

2. Connect service filling machine to bleeder cap. NOTE: Use Service Filling Machine/Brake power bleeder Brake power bleeder or equivalent.

3. Service filling machine should be pressurized to at least 2.5 bar (36 PSI).

4. Remove dust cap from bleeder valve and connect the transparent bleeder hose to bleeder valve.

5. Place the other end of hose in the bleeder container to capture the used fluid. The end of the hose MUST be submerged in the DOT 3 brake fluid.

NOTE: Use Bleeder Container To capture hydraulic fluid and Transparent Bleeder Hose To route fluid to container.

6. Turn on the service filling machine.

7. Crack open the bleeder valve (3).

8. Allow fluid to flow out of bleed port until no more air bubbles can be seen in the transparent bleeder hose.

9. Once fluid is free of air bubbles; make 15 quick actuations between clutch pedal stop positions.

10. Close the bleeder valve and disconnect the service filling machine.

11. To remove remaining air, actuate pedal 10 times slowly between pedal stop positions.

12. Check clutch pedal to see if vehicle is properly bled.

13. If vehicle is not properly bled, repeat procedure.

14. Remove bleeder cap from reservoir and replace reservoir cap.

15. Disconnect transparent bleeder hose from bleeder valve and replace dust cap.

Oct 15, 2013 | 2007 Jeep Compass Limited

2 Answers

Can wheels and tires affect gas mileage?

Well braking will drastically reduce your fuel economy, as of course this is taking the inertia energy of the vehicle which you built burning fuel in the engine and then reducing that and changing that inertia into heat.Your tyres do pretty much the same thing as they are a trade off between low rolling resistance and grip which helps you turn and brake. The reason trains have steel wheels is because they turn on tracks, although their braking distance is severely affected. You need to stop quickly in a car and corner safely enough to not end up in a ditch each time you take a corner, and this is why you have high grip rubber tyres on your vehicle.Typically the best way to reduce rolling resistance with your present set of tyres, is to keep them inflated up to pressure, or even slightly over pressure, which most vehicles can afford to do. (arround 5 P.S.I. will do)Other fuel saving techniques which can drastically improve performance are:
1) Remove excess weight such as the spare wheel, jack, wrench etc. Carry a can of tyre sealant instead for minor emergencies.
2) Remove any excess baggage which doesn't need to make permanent home in your car.
3) Remove any unused bike racks, roof racks and spoilers from the car.
4) When driving keep plenty of room between yourself and the car in front. This allows you to use lighter braking force when cruising at speed and also allows you to get off the gas earlier when stopping.The same goes for looking well ahead in the road for red traffic lights or stop signs. Get off the gas early if you are going to be stopping up ahead anyway!
5) Best fuel saving tip overall; plan your route ahead of time. If it's a route you are unfamiliar with then driving around in circles trying to find it is not going to save any fuel at all. Planning ahead and travelling during low traffic volume periods can save a huge quantity of fuel.

6) Share your supermarket/shopping mall trip with a neighbor or friend. You can share the cost of fuel and reduce the number of vehicles on the road at the same time.

7) Manage several errands in one long trip. Cars by far use the most fuel on cold start and during cold running, as well as suffer around 80% of engine wear during cold start only. By keeping your car up to temperature on a longer journey, you can improve your average fuel economy and reduce wear and tear to the engine internals.

8) When accelerating up to cruising speed, use around 75% of the available engine power. Only reserve this method for times when there is little traffic ahead and you can maintain safe braking distances ahead. Getting up to speed more quickly actually saves fuel in the long run. I really don't mean burn the rubber off the wheels and burn your clutch out kind of acceleration though, so take it easy!

Oct 30, 2012 | 2007 Cadillac Escalade Two-Wheel Drive

1 Answer

After replacing the brake pads what do I do if the pedal isn't working properly

not sure here as the problem without a good look but going from the description iam not sure so what i would suggest is to leave something heavy like a brick on the brake pedal overnight or a length of wood jammed from the seat to brake pedal it doesnt have to hard down just enough to open the push rod pushing into the master cylinder and leave overnight and see what happens

Aug 17, 2011 | 2006 Ford Focus

1 Answer

I am having problem bleeding the brakes on my 2002 kia sportage.Every time I bleed the brakes I only get the peddle up just a bit but not enough.Is there a special way to do bleed them.There doesn't seem to be any leaks anyplace.

When bleeding never allow the Masrer Cylinder get below 1/4 full or you will introduce more air, which will mean starting over again. I helps if you have a length of clear plastic tubing that fits snugly over the tip of the bleed nipple so that you can see if there is any air bubbles being released. You usually start at the rear wheel that has the longest run of pipe from the master cylinder. Next is the other rear wheel. Next is the front wheel with the longest run and last is the remaining front wheel. Proceedure:
1. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal 3 or 4 time then hold down an maintain weight on pedal as it drops when fluid is released.
2. Release bleed nipple and observe fluid coming out for bubbles then retighten when flow stops.
3. Assistant then allows pedal up and waits for a few seconds for cylinder piston to refill fully.
4. Repeat from #1 until no more air bubbles are visible, then go to next wheel.
If pedal still feels a little spongy repeat process after a couple of days driving with engine running so that any remaining tiny air bubbles are purged.
You should also make sure that the brake pedal free travel adjustment is correct because if the free travel is insufficient, it will not allow the master cylinder to operate correctly..

Aug 28, 2010 | 2002 Kia Sportage

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