Tip & How-To about BMW 323

BATTERY GOES DEAD CAR NEEDS JUMP

Battery constantly goes dead, even after it was replaced.....do the simple tests on it before you spend big bucks having a shop pin down the problem....you will need needle nose pliers, 20 volt dc scale volt/ohms meter, test light 12v, battery charger 12v,bright flash light.
Ok lets get this party started, first have the battery charged over night if on a slow trickle, keep the battery cables off overnight, next put the volt meter on it black neg...red pos. set to 20 dcvolt scale, statically the battery shoukld read 12.5 volts anything less it needs to be replaced, next.. reinstall the cables and start the car...what is your reading...12.5 volts???? this is straight battery voltage and indicates that the alternator/regulator combo is not charging... cause may be a broken wire off the back of the alternator or a bad alternator, possibly a stretched and loose alt. belt.
If wires look ok and the belt tests tight(with engine off try to turn the alternator pulley by hand, if it turns the belt is way too loose or defective..tighten or replace)..then suspect the alternator/regulator...remove it and take it to Discount Auto or Auto Zone there they will bench test it for output if no good replace it.
Ok if your reading was 13.0-14.5 the alt/reg is charging, turn on all electrical is the reading on the dv volt scale at about 12.8-13.0 volts, this is fine...now shut all accesories off and it should go to full charge 14.5..all good....anything less have the alt/reg bench tested as stated above.
Ok everythibng seems to be in charging order but it still goes dead...you have a direct drain on your electrical system knocking the daylights out of your battery, ok first disconnect every mercury under hood and trunk light you find and let it sit overnight(also go around the car in the dark and see if any lights are lit such as a bad brake light switch illuminating the brake lights while you sleep thus draining the battery overnight) next morning does it start...yes then replace the mercury lights and be certain they are adjusted perfectly because they cant be seen if they come on under the hood or trunk, Ok all that and still no find...take the positive cable off the battery and in series with it install your 12v test light...needle pin in the cable alligator clip on the post or vice versa....you are now testing for a draw in the system that may be killing your battery while sitting over night,
go to the under dash fuse panel and one fuse at a time remove it... each time while it is removed check to see if the test light is on or off...it will go off when you find the circuit that the drain is in, mark the fuse in the panel when you find it and see if you can visually observe any wiring problems in that particular circuit(have a manual handy to locate which fuse controls what circuit in the fuse panel) example if the cigar lighter fuse is pulled out and the test light goes out... look at the lighter element... we have found children who put pennies inside the cigar lighter element causing a horrible drain on the battery and very difficault to find as well.
Hope this helps in you diagnostic adventures of basic electrical 101.

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2001 Honda CRV, it will start & then suddenly dies going down road, after a little bit it will start back up & then dies again after you get going


why replace very expensive parts, guessing.?
so runs ok , dies runs ok, dies, ? is that it? hot, and cold?
did you do the 60k tune up yet, this repeats ever 60k miles.
that be first.
then see if you can save the STALL , with a fast right foot action.
yes, and has full power up any hill at that time, its not the fuel pump.
stalls have 4 major causes and 4 tests..
you can do the tests. or spend a fortune guessing, its your car and your bread (cash).
one very common cause is the EGR sticking open , the main EGR valve.
other:
1: 12vdc lost to the EFI system, the dash goes dead. lost elect. power.
2: lost compression , can happen hot engine only.
3: bad spark.
4: bad fueling.
there are simple tools and simple tests for each
do you want to test, or gue$$?

(EGR sticking or iSC sticking both can be clean before spending big cash guessing parts)

the fast foot answer, is the KEY FACTORY answer that
1 question and 1/2 the work stops. ive posted this many times.
and not one answer,
car starts to stall?
i slam right foot to floor.
engine, dies, or
is easy to save stall
or hard,
if i can save it , I IMMEDIATELY check for full engine power.
go that?

Feb 09, 2014 | Honda CRV Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

car starts when boosted but wont start by itself after tuning it off. Is it the battery or alternator?


It could be either. The alternator feeds electrical charge to the battery. Easiest way to tell is spend the 100 bucks and replace the battery. Even if your alternator is good, some batteries will not hold a charge even when boosted.

If that doesn't work try to get a used or rebuilt alternator.
Personally I would take it to a shop and have them check it first. You could have a solenoid issue and your battery and alternator are fine.
There could aslo be an electrical short in the wiring harness that is causing a draw on your battery.

Jan 08, 2010 | 1990 Oldsmobile Ninety Eight

1 Answer

AFTER HAVING THE 2000 LINCOLN LS TESTED GOT THE CODE B1342 ABS MODULE, THEY REPROGRAMMED IT, TEST DROVE IT & EVEYTHING WAS OK WELL LATER ON THAT DAY ABS, BRAKE & TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT ALL CAME BACK ON ....WHATS THE REAL PROBLEM? I DONT WANNA SPEND ALOT OF MONEY AGAIN IF THIS COULD BE SOMETHING SIMPLE....HELP


I would take the car right back to the shop that cleared the code. There was a 50/50 chance of clearing the codes. The good thing is now the shop will be able to pin point the failure with the fresh code. Most of the time the abs controller is going out. The controller also might not be readiing the tire sensor . If one sensor goes out the abs light will come on. The controller could be working fine and one of the sensor has to be replace. That is the cheapest cost. The abs controller and abs hydraulic controller is big bucks to replace , The part is around 1500 bucks. The tire sensor are around 25.00 35.00 each.

The manufacture has made the vehicle to where if the abs system is not working correctly then the brake system will automatically work as normal brakes with out the abs system.

Yeah its a pain in the you know where to take back but I would fight tooth and nail with the shop not to charge you any additional check out time. If the shop stands behind there work they will not charge you additoinal check out time.

Good Luck

Jul 26, 2009 | 2000 Lincoln LS

1 Answer

1991 Volvo Sedan stopped while driving


If it is the alternator, you will have a dead battery too. Have you charged the battery to see if it will allow you to get to a parts store and have the charging system tested? I would do to that before tearing into the alternator and spending the big bucks. Taking the alternator out is not a big deal, two bolts to loosen and the wires in the back to unhook - after you take the ( -) wire off the battery. Keep the wire connections straight for hooking up later. To get the alternator belt loose, you will need to loosen the adjustment screw until the belt can be pulled off the pulley. Good luck

Mar 14, 2009 | 1991 Volvo 240

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