Tip & How-To about Mercury Mountaineer

Replace Spark Plugs - 4.6 Litre Mecury Mountaineer/Ford Explorer


Most of the 4.6 Litre engines have some form of plastic cover, mine was held in place with two 11mm nuts at the front and press-fit connection at the back. Remove this cover to gain access to the spark plugs. You may need to disconnect the air hose going to the throttle body and some additional vacuum hose connections. Mark them with masking tape and numbers if you have any question about re-attaching them correctly. Along each side of the intake manifold you will see 4 round coils held in place with a 7mm bolt on each one. Remove the 7mm bolts from each coil. Each of these coils has a connector that will be disconnected by pinching the connector to release the catch and pulling gently. Do not worry about marking them unless the wire harness has been modified. The factory wire harness keeps the connectors next to the correct coil.

Remove each coil and plug connector by gently turning the unit to break the rubber loose from the manifold, then pulling up on the coil/plug connector as a unit. Do not be alarmed if the rubber boot cover comes off, you can easily reattach it to the coil. Once the coils and rubber boots are removed, use your compressed air source or vacuum to remove as much debris from around the spark plugs as possible. Warning: Wear Eye Protection when using compressed air.

Remove the spark plugs using the 5/8" spark plug socket, swivel, extension and ratchet. Some engine installations may require additional extensions or swivels to get the back plugs removed. It normally takes just an 1/8 turn to break the plugs loose and then about 4-6 full turns to fully remove the spark plugs. If the plug does not come out with the socket, use the magnetic pickup tool to pull the plug out. You will not be able to reach it with your fingers.

Using the feeler gauges gap your new spark plugs to the correct gap for your vehicle. A typical spark plug gap for this engine is .054 inch. With the plugs gapped, fit the rubber fuel line to the top of a spark plug and then apply a small dab of anti-seize compound to the plug threads. Work the anti-seize into the threads a little bit and then insert the plug into the engine. The rubber fuel line will prevent you from cross-threading the spark plug and you should be able to turn the plug in about 3/4 turn or more easily. If not, remove the plug and make sure that it has not picked up any debris in the threads. If so, clear it out and try again. Once you have all of the plugs started, use the 5/8" socket to tighten them just 1/8 turn past their stopping point. Do not over tighten as this is the leading cause for plug-blowout with this engine series.
With all of the spark plugs back in, you can then proceed to replace the coil/plug connectors. Replace the 7mm bolts for each coil and tighten them snugly but do not over tighten. With the bolts tight, the coil/plug connector should still rotate slightly. Reconnect the electrical connectors for each coil by gently pushing them in place until they click. They are indexed and will fit only in one direction.

Reconnect the air hose to the throttle body and any vacuum lines that were removed. Replace the plastic engine cover and fasten it in place. That's it, your done.

Most of these engines will operate well on one set of plugs for up to 100,000 miles. When replacing the plugs, I recommend that you use the original Motorcraft Spark Plugs and upgrade to the platinum equivalent if available. You may wish to replace the rubber boots at the same time you replace the spark plugs. With over 96,000 miles, mine were still in great shape. The anti-seize compound will help with the next plug change and a small packet can normally be purchased at the auto parts store for a $1.00. Again, wear eye protection if you are using a compressed air source. The debris can be very dangerous to your eyes at that velocity.
Mechanics work gloves are recommended to shield your hands from cuts and abrasions.

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2006 trailblazer washer wiper nozzle removal replacement


the nozzles just snap in from the top.... you first pop the cover at the pivot point of the wiper arm to access the nut. remove said nut. remove the wiper arms (a puller is very useful to avoid damage) , then Remove the air inlet grille panel (held in with pushpins and small 1/4in or 9/32in bolts. disconnect the hoses and squeeze the two tabs that hold them in. because they snap in from the top, i have seen people crush and brake their old nozzles with needle nose pliers. pull the hose through the hole and attach it to the new nozzle...... NOT the recommended procedure, rent or buy a puller that looks like a small two jaw gear puller to save yourself a big headache (mine was only $45). good luck

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cv joints


Hi Thomas, I have not changed CV's on your type of vehicle, but can give you the path to follow. Here we go; Always work with someone to assist you. pepare four plastic bags for use later. With both front wheels on the ground remove any wheel covers fitted. In the center of the wheel you will see the shafts of the CV's. These are held in position with large nuts, either locked with a tab or sometimes with a locking washer and split pin. Unlock whichever system is used and loosen the nuts on the shafts. Loosen the wheel nuts, jack up the vehicle and place chassis stands to support the vehicle and the lower it onto the stands. Remove the wheels and remove the center nuts from the CV joints. If the vehicle is fitted with McPherson struts, loosen the two through bolts and nuts, or if fitted with wishbone suspension loosen and remove the bolts securing the the upper ball joints. Swing the stub axle outward and downwards so that there is enough room to remove the CV shafts from from the hubs. Put on a pair of goggles and then climb under the vehicle and release the boots or retaining bolts holding the shaft into the spyder or inner CV joint. Once removed pull the half shaft out of the housings keeping everything as clean as possible and wrap in a plastic bag.. (There will be high impact grease inside both the inner and outer joints, This may have been thrown out in the event that the rubber boots are broken) If you are replacing the entire half shafts, carefully observe the way in which the inner joint is fitted. If there are no bolts, studs or nuts holding a flange onto the gear box differential housing, the inner joints will be held in place by spring loaded clips fitted around the ends of the inner shafts. If your vehicle uses that type of fitting the shafts will be levered out. It will be important to use a catchment tray to collect any transmission oil which leaks out. Cover the joint with one of the plastic bags. If you are fitting only the outer CV's, the defective units are knocked off the shafts with a heavy copper mallet (The shafts also have locking cur clips holding the shafts in place. Sometimes the inner basket of the CV bearing housing will need to be cut or broken out, so the the joint can be removed. Please both you and your friend use safety goggles during this procedure. Once removed, fit the new joint. If you are replacing the entire assembly and if they are the type using clips, use a thick piece of wood and hold the shaft as straight as possible then ask your pal to knock the shaft into the housing. The rest of the job is the opposite to removal. When fitting the outer CV shaft nut follow the correct tightening torque setting, as these usually hold the front wheel bearings at the correct settings and tightness. Regards John

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how do I remove power antenna from 1992 300 zx


pop the rear deck lid and remove the right rear plastic trunk cover. To do this you will remove the small plastic piece that is directly in front of the right rear tail light. Then remove the big plastic screw that retains the center plastic deck lid cover. Now remove the three 10mm nuts that keep the right rear plastic cover secured. Remove the right rear plastic cover. Be careful as it can crack if you put too much pressure on it. Look inside and to the right rear where the antenna mast comes up. You will see a small 10mm nut that holds the antenna mast to the body. Take that nut off. This will release the outer body cover from the inner cover. Remove the outer body cover and then remove the two screws from the OUTSIDE of the body cover. Now follow the antenna body down and you will see two or three additional small nuts that hold the antenna assembly metal bracket in place. Remove these. Unplug the antenna co-ax cable from the input. It just slides out. Unplug the antenna connection as well. This is the jack that has the power wires. You will also need to unscrew the ground wire from the inner body frame. There might be a nut on top of the actual antenna mast. If so, just unscrew it. The entire antenna assembly will now lift out. It's a mildly tight fit but you don't need to be too gentle in this step. Normally the problem is the antenna belt has broken inside the antenna assembly and there is no hope of replacing that belt. You have to replace the entire assembly. I found mine on Craigslist from a guy parting his totaled Z. May it rest in peace. His loss - my gain! Typical price is $65, maybe you can talk him down to $50. Installation is the above process in reverse.

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1 Answer

How do you change the spark plugs on a 2003 mercury mountaineer 4.6L?


  1. Most of the 4.6 Litre engines have some form of plastic cover, mine was held in place with two 11mm nuts at the front and press-fit connection at the back. Remove this cover to gain access to the spark plugs. You may need to disconnect the air hose going to the throttle body and some additional vacuum hose connections. Mark them with masking tape and numbers if you have any question about re-attaching them correctly. Along each side of the intake manifold you will see 4 round coils held in place with a 7mm bolt on each one. Remove the 7mm bolts from each coil. Each of these coils has a connector that will be disconnected by pinching the connector to release the catch and pulling gently. Do not worry about marking them unless the wire harness has been modified. The factory wire harness keeps the connectors next to the correct coil.
  2. Remove each coil and plug connector by gently turning the unit to break the rubber loose from the manifold, then pulling up on the coil/plug connector as a unit. Do not be alarmed if the rubber boot cover comes off, you can easily reattach it to the coil. Once the coils and rubber boots are removed, use your compressed air source or vacuum to remove as much debris from around the spark plugs as possible. Warning: Wear Eye Protection when using compressed air.
  3. Remove the spark plugs using the 5/8" spark plug socket, swivel, extension and ratchet. Some engine installations may require additional extensions or swivels to get the back plugs removed. It normally takes just an 1/8 turn to break the plugs loose and then about 4-6 full turns to fully remove the spark plugs. If the plug does not come out with the socket, use the magnetic pickup tool to pull the plug out. You will not be able to reach it with your fingers.
  4. Using the feeler gauges gap your new spark plugs to the correct gap for your vehicle. A typical spark plug gap for this engine is .054 inch. With the plugs gapped, fit the rubber fuel line to the top of a spark plug and then apply a small dab of anti-seize compound to the plug threads. Work the anti-seize into the threads a little bit and then insert the plug into the engine. The rubber fuel line will prevent you from cross-threading the spark plug and you should be able to turn the plug in about 3/4 turn or more easily. If not, remove the plug and make sure that it has not picked up any debris in the threads. If so, clear it out and try again. Once you have all of the plugs started, use the 5/8" socket to tighten them just 1/8 turn past their stopping point. Do not over tighten as this is the leading cause for plug-blowout with this engine series.
  5. With all of the spark plugs back in, you can then proceed to replace the coil/plug connectors. Replace the 7mm bolts for each coil and tighten them snugly but do not over tighten. With the bolts tight, the coil/plug connector should still rotate slightly. Reconnect the electrical connectors for each coil by gently pushing them in place until they click. They are indexed and will fit only in one direction.
    Reconnect the air hose to the throttle body and any vacuum lines that were removed. Replace the plastic engine cover and fasten it in place. That's it, your done.

Apr 28, 2010 | 2003 Mercury Mountaineer

1 Answer

How do I change the oil and fuel filters on My Mitsubishi Outlander. Year 2007. Where are both filters located in the engine compartment.


Is this a diesel? I just changed my oil and oil filter. You have to remove the plastic engine top cover first and you will see the oil filter in the front right. Black with hex nut on top (my 1 1/4 AF socket fitted). You have to disconnect the bracket holding some wiring. Pull the wiring forward to access the nut on top of the filter. Undo and remove/replace filter.
Under the car you will find a small hatch in the underside plastic cover held in place by three 10 mm bolts. Remove this to access the 19 mm drain plug. Drain old oil and refill with 4 ltrs 5/30 fully synthetic. Top up if necessary after running engine but DO NOT overfill.
The fuel filter is on the bulkhead at the back of the engine on the right side. I wont be changing that for a while!

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