Tip & How-To about Buick Skylark

Changing brake pads and or rotors

When changing pads or rotors the brake plunger must be forced back to make room for the replacement pads. It is important that with cars with anti lock brakes that the bleeder screws must be opened when pushing the plunger back. Not doing so and forcing fluid up to and in the reserve can injure the anti lock brake system and they are expensive to repair.

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In replacing front brake pads, I can't get master cylinder to go back far enough to allow room for rotor. Have tried using c clamp to force it back but it will not budge? HELP!


This is going to depend on the make/model/year of your car. With some, you need a special tool to force the cylinder in the caliper back.

Dec 30, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2004 chevy astro van new rear brake pads seem too thick


did you turn the rotors some times there ia ridge on the rotors that needs to be machined down.

Jan 24, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2007 freestyle rotor warping


Inspect the wheel hubs for flaws in the rotor mounting surfaces that could prevent rotors from seating properly. Also, check the wheel bearings for slop, roughness or other signs of wear. If the bearing does not rotate smoothly and keep the rotor on center, the rotor will wear unevenly. (Also, pay attention to unusual rumbling sounds when cornering or sudden jerks while braking; these indicate possible wheel bearing problems. The jerking may be caused by the bearing locking up momentarily when the brake changes it load forces.)

Another thing to look at if the problem recurs: take a quick peek at the instrument panel to see if the low traction warning is on. If it is and the road conditions are good, the anti-lock braking system has a false trigger condition. This could be caused by an off-center rotor or a sensor fault. The hard part is identifying which wheel has the problem

Jun 12, 2017 | 2007 Ford Freestyle Limited

1 Answer

rear rotor replacement for a 1985 mercadies benz 500 sel


YOU NEED TO SAFELY RAISE SUPPORT REAR OF VECHICLE ON JACKSTANDS. MAKE SURE VECHICLE PARKED ON SOLID LEVEL GROUND. YOU NEED TO SIPHON JUST A LITTLE BRAKE FLUID OUT OF THE MASTERCYLINDER.BECAUSE YOU NEED TO USE LARGE C - CLAMP TO COMPRESS FORCE PISTONS BACK IN THE CALIPER BORES USING LARGE C - CLAMP DOING THIS WILL ALLOW YOU ENOUGH ROOM INSTALL NEW REAR BRAKE PADS.TO REMOVE REAR PADS ONCE YOU COMPRESS PISTON BACK IN THE CYLINDER BORE. YOU CAN TO REMOVE REAR BRAKE PADS BY REMOVING RETAINING PINS IF EQUIPPED OR BRAKE PADS HELD IN PLACE BY RETAINING BOLTS.ONCE YOU HAVE NEW REAR BRAKE PADS INSTALLED.PLACE MASTERCYLINDER COVER BACK ON TOP OF MASTERCYLINDER THEN PUMP BRAKE PEDAL TO SEAT NEW REAR BRAKE PADS AGAINST THE ROTOR UNTIL BRAKE PEDAL FEEL FIRM AND SOLID.THEN RECHECK BRAKE FLUID LEVEL IN BRAKE MASTERCYLINDER ADD LITTLE MORE FLUID IF NEED DONT OVER FILL MASTERCYLINDER.

Sep 11, 2011 | Mercedes-Benz 500-Class Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

how to change front end rotors and pads, any special tools,n a 2003 chevy 2500hd crew cab 4x4


you"ll needs a torx bit and medium breaker bar to remove the two bolts on the caliper...but first loosen the cap on the brake resivoir..after removing tire reinstall lug nuts snug on the rotors. Then slip in a long beefy screwdriver and work it in between the rotor and pads..it will take time..slowly pry back the caliper pistons all the way if you can...you'll need this room for the new pads, which i hope you"ll be replaceing along with the rotors...then brake loose the two bolts that hold the caliper in place and lift off, dont let the brake lines hang..it might get damged..... wire it to something or hang it on something that will relieve pressure/strain....take lug nuts back off rotor and slide it off...then install the new rotors put back on lug nuts and slide in brake pad in the cliper making sure that you install the anti rattle sprins correctly...(look at how the old ones are setup before installing the pad)!!!...remember push the pistons all the way in as far as they go ...it will make installing them at lot easier. Once the caliper is slide into place line up the two bolts fittings ( you should lube the bolts with some lithium grease first) then torque inplace. secure resevoir cap: ( having this loose, (not off) keeps you from loosing fliud when your pushing the pistons back into the caliper).anyway secure the cap back on...and now comes the most important part!...get in the car and dont be surprised when the pedal hits the floor..Dont drive this car until the brake pedal is pumped repeatedly till it feels normal or like before firm but not real hard!
next drive the car real slow at first...and check the brakes...they should work...if not check brake fliud levels and brake areas for leaks or cracked lines. pretty much thats it in a nut shell.. DRIVE slow first time to check brakes and pump them quite a bit till normal pressure builds up.

Oct 02, 2009 | 2003 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD

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