Tip & How-To about Chevrolet Caprice

Lubricants and Lies

Here is the wiki definition of a popular engine additive component:

In chemistry, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) is a synthetic fluoropolymer of tetrafluoroethylene which finds numerous applications. PTFE is most well known by the DuPont brand name Teflon.

So, guys when you add that can of Slick 50 and your oil filter gets clogged, or your newly rebuilt crank suddenly seizes up like many have as stated in several of the lawsuits, don't say nobody warned you.

There are many other additives on the market featuring this ingredient as well so this company isn't the only culprit.

Lets also remember the STP fiasco, when many mechanics discovered the hard way that getting that product OUT of an engine you wanted to rebuild was a nightmare, not to mention it hits crankshaft (throws) counterbalancers like a pile of playdough when it's subjected to cold weather.

We all want a friction free engine, or as close to that as we can get right?
If you have been in the automotive field for a few years, you have most likely been exposed to these slick products at some point.

Do your research on the net with any given name and it all comes back to this one bare fact. None of these additives significantly change the friction properties inherent in your engine more than plain old motor oil.

(That is the way it is stated in the lawsuits as well)

But lets go back a few years to the mid 1950 era.
There was this small company called Justice Brothers.
Just like any company, they started small and eventually developed a product that is still used in racing engines today called Justice Brothers with metal conditioner. I was introduced to this stuff by an old friend after he handed me a top engine rebuild to finish. The job was easy enough, since the other mechanic had nearly completed it. Unfortunately for him though, he got picked up and hauled off to jail for some old warrants.

Unfortunately for ME though, his camshaft bearings were the wrong size.
Later I discovered that he had also sent the crankshaft for a rebuild and reinstalled it.

All I really had to do when the job landed in my lap was torque the camshaft down and reinstall the water pump, alt, power steering etc. Well I get her done and go for the test drive, take it up to about 85mph. All seems good then the engine starts slowing down.

I tap the gas and it's still slowing down, finally with my foot to the floor I make it another few hundred feet to a gas station where I discover my exhaust manifold is almost white hot, the oil has turned to sludge and the radiator is completely empty. So here I am, many dollars later having lost the new antifreeze, oil and who knows what else.

Since this has never happened on any engine I have rebuilt before, I am clueless as to what went wrong. I usually just buy a crank kit with matching bearings and do the same with my camshaft kits.
Turns out the other mechanic had bought everything separately.
The sizes didnt match on the cam bearing box with the camshaft.

So here I am with this hot dead lost cause and I call up my old buddy and fill him in. He tells me not to panic, drives up 10 minutes later and tells me to hop in, were going shopping. We stop at several places and finally he finds this old can at a gas station with a Big JB on the label still sitting on the shelf. He asks a guy in the back a few questions, then next thing you know he has 2 more cans. Im curious, but he isn't talking. we get more oil for the car while were there (generic stuff) because im about tapped out.

We head back to the car, he asks me to try cranking it and it's locked up.
He pours a can of this stuff in, gets burned by the dip stick, but keeps on pouring, adds a second can and tops it off with the rest of the way with the cheap motor oil, tells me to wait 5 minutes, we talk for awhile, smoke a winston and a marlboro each and he says, ok crank it. All this time im arguing with him that we cant try cranking and doing more damage to the engine.

Soooo with nothing else much to lose I go ahead and crank the engine, it starts right away and starts idling faster by the second. He grabs a water hose while im steadily decelerating to keep from over revving. He pops the radiator cap and steam blows everywhere. Im sure I'll be buying parts, but he tells me to calm down. the engine starts taking water without gurgling, cools down and stays at a steady 1500 rpm.

Here I am just waiting for this thing to die any second and he wants me to follow him back to the shop. What the heck, I follow him, and this car is really driving smooth. We park and it doesn't boil over.
Then he gives me the lowdown on Justice brothers, and I've been a fan ever since.

Since that time, I have unlocked seized lawnmowers, driven a Toyota hilux with 350k on the odometer and severe connecting rod clatter, drive another 150k with no problem.
Increased mileage on just about anything I put this stuff in, and even managed to resurrect an old Chrysler Newport with worn rings and a smoking exhaust. Yes, it stopped smoking!

I figure it this way, if they use this stuff in race cars, and it's been around since the mid 50's with no consumer complaints, and it's backed and used by Andy Granatelli and a few dozen other Top drivers, then it's good enough for me.

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3 Answers

what happens when you use regular oil instead of synthetic oil in 2007 dodge ram v6


nothing
synthetic oil is good but it has the same problem as ordinary oil
the additives in the oil are all used up and no longer do what they are there for
neutralizing acidity from combustion
keeping moisture in suspension,retaining tensile strength in the oil film and a host of other additives used to promote longer engine life
regular oil is cheaper so more regular oil changes can be afforded( every 5000 miles )
forget the myth that oil doesn't have to be changed for 12 months or 20000 miles
oil is the most vital component in an engine so changing often is for longer engine life
as a point of interest , when you pull into a shop for a service the oil you will get is ordinary engine oil because if synthetic oil was used , you would scream at the bill and not go back there unless you specifically ask for synthetic oil
simple economics and business sense
more costly than anywhere else = no business

Apr 25, 2017 | Dodge Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

engine oil capacity & type


Hello,

Visco 2000 or mobil oil, use the dipstick to check do not let it be too full.

The type specified by the vehicle manufacturer in your owner's manual. For most passenger car and light truck gasoline engines today, it's any oil that meets the American Petroleum Institutes "SH" rating.
As for the viscosity of oil to use, most new engines today require a multiviscosity 5W-30 oil for all-round driving. The lighter 5W-30 oils contain friction reducing additives that help improve fuel economy, and also allow the oil to quickly reach critical upper valvetrain components when a cold engine is first started. Most engine wear occurs immediately after a cold start, so it's important to have oil that is thin enough to circulate easily -- especially at cold temperatures.
For older engines and ones that are driven at sustained highways speeds during hot weather, 10W-30 or 10W-40 is a good choice. Heavier multiviscosity oils such as 20W-40 are for high rpm, high-load applications primarily and are not recommended for cold weather driving.
Straight weight 30W and 40W oils aren't very popular anymore, but some diehards insist on using them. They say the thicker oil holds up better under high temperature (which it does), increases oil pressure and reduces oil consumption in high mileage engines. But straight 30W and 40W oils are too thick for cold weather and may make an engine hard to start. They may also be too thick to provide adequate start-up lubrication to critical upper valvetrain components during cold weather. So switching to a straight 20W oil would be necessary for cold weather driving. Straight 10W oil can also improve cold starting, but is very thin and should only be used in sub-zero climates. A multiviscosity 10W-30 or 10W-40 will provide the same cold starting benefits of a 10W oil and the high temperature protection of a 30W or 40W oil.
For the ultimate in high temperature protection, durability and all-round performance, synthetic oils are the way to go. Unfortunately, most synthetic oils cost up to three times as much as ordinary petroleum-based oils. They cost more because synthetics are manmade rather than refined from petroleum. But this improves their performance in virtually every aspect:
  • Superior temperature resistance. Synthetics can safely handle higher operating temperatures without oxidizing (burning) or breaking down. The upper limit for most mineral based oils is about 250 to 300 degrees F. Synthetics can take up to 450 degrees F. or higher. This makes synthetics well-suited for turbo applications as well as high rpm and high output engine applications.
  • Better low temperature performance. Synthetics flow freely at subzero temperatures, pouring easily at -40 or -50 degrees F. where ordinary oils turn to molasses. This makes for easier cold starts and provides faster upper valvetrain lubrication during the first critical moments when most engine wear occurs.
  • Better engine performance. Synthetics tend to be more slippery than their petroleum-based counterparts, which improves fuel economy, cuts frictional horsepower losses and helps the engine run cooler. The difference isn't great, but it can make a noticeable difference.
  • Longer oil change intervals. Because synthetics resist oxidation and viscosity breakdown better than ordinary motor oils, some suppliers say oil change intervals can be safely extended -- in some cases stretched to as much as 25,000 miles. Such claims are justified by the fact that synthetics don't break down or sludge up as fast as ordinary mineral-based oils do in use. CAUTION: For vehicles under warranty, extending the normal change interval is not recommended because failing to follow the OEM's maintenance schedule can void your warranty.
    Synthetics are available in the same grades as ordinary motor oils (5W-30, 5W-20 and 10W-30) as well as "extended" grades such as 15W-50 and even 5W-50.
    There are also lower-cost synthetic "blends" that combine synthetic and petroleum-based oils in the same container. But you can do your own blend to save money by simply substituting a quart or two of synthetic oil for conventional oil when you change oil. Synthetics are compatible with conventional motor oils.
    Who should use a synthetic oil? The premium-priced oil is best for:
    • Turbocharged or supercharged engines
    • Performance or high output engines
    • Vehicles used for towing (especially during hot weather)
    • Vehicles that are operated in extremely cold or hot climates
    • Anyone who wants the ultimate in lubrication and protection

Take care and good luck

Dec 03, 2010 | 2008 Nissan Xterra

2 Answers

can I use synthetic oil in my 1994 lexus ES300? If so what kind would you recommend?


Any engine can use synthetic oil. I would reccomend using a popular brand like castrol syntec that you can find anywhere. Also you need to make sure that you never go back to using regular oil. It's synthetic or nothing!

Sep 07, 2010 | 1994 Lexus Es 300

2 Answers

can i use 5w30 instead of 5w20 oil on a 2006


you can but not recommended. the reason for the thinner oil is the tolerances in the bearing races on these engines are very tight, requiring thinner oil. 5w30 is ok for sure if you are going synthetic.

Nov 13, 2009 | 2006 Chrysler Town & Country

2 Answers

what is the best engine oil for the mercedes e320?


The best oil for any car is 5W-30 synthetic, I personally recommend Mobile 1. 5W-30 Synthetic flows more rapidly to engine parts thereby reducing "dry start" wear. In addition, full (not part) synthetics contain fewer additives (they don't need them) than conventional oils. Conventional oil additives "burn off" rapidly (500-1000 miles) after an oil change and sludge accumulates over time as a result.

Synthetic oils use much less of these additives (5% vs 20-30%) than conventional (Dinosaur oil) so there's much less sludge to build up. Synthetic oil also has a more uniform molecule size, this extends oil longevity and reduces running temperature.

I've personally used Mobile 1 for many yeas in my cars and would recommend it although I'm quite sure that other FULL synthetics would offer similar benefits.

Jun 21, 2009 | 2005 Mercedes-Benz Mercedes Benz E320 Cdi

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