Tip & How-To about Ford ZX2

Timing belt replacement Zetec engine with VCT. Part 2

7. Now we install the new belt. This can be a bit difficult because the new belt is not stretched at all and will prove difficult. You may be tempted to try prying it on with a pry bar (or screwdriver), please resist the urge to do that. After you cuss a lot and the belt slides on make sure it sits just inside the gears the entire length of the belt. Now you can apply tension. Slide the tab into the back plate. Tighten the tensioner 10 mm bolt up just a enough to keep the allen key from falling down under its' own weight. Behind the tensioner is a back plate with a notch cut into it. You can see there is a line it is supposed to point to. Make sure it is pointing to it when you start to put tension on the belt by rotating the allen slot counter-clockwise. Now you need to hold that allen slot with the allen wrench in a 3 o'clock position while you tighten the tension bolt. It is a very small space to work in and it will make you mad, but it has to be done. Get the bolt good and snug, 18 ft-lbs. Don't over tighten it, it might break off. After you get this done you need to check the belt deflection. Just push down in the center of the belt (between the cam gears) and see if it travels downward more then a 1/4 inch. If not, then the tension is set fine. If it won't let you move it at all, then the tension is too much and may cause the belt to break.

7a. Now that the belt is installed, you have to tighten up the cams gears. Starting with the exhaust cam gear, use a wrech to hold the cam still (leave the lock tool in, but hold the cam in place so you don't break the slots out) and tighten the bolt up to 30 ft-lbs. Now, hold the intake cam still and tighten the bolt up to 50 ft-lbs. Remove the lock tool and tighten the exhaust cam bolt up to 80 ft-lbs. Install the oil plug into the VCT hub and tighten it up to about 15-20 ft-lbs. All of this sets the cam gears to neutral and prevents the belt from bunching up in the center during VCT operation.

8. Now you can put it back together. If you haven't already done so, remove the cam locking tool. Rotate the crank with the crank bolt one full turn to make sure the belt isn't going to bind on anything. If all is well then you put everything together the way it was removed with the following notes:

A. Re-connect your coil plug if you removed it, some people forget then get scared when the car doesn't start.

B. When you install the valve cover, you need to wipe the head mating surface down to make sure it is clean. Here is the torque pattern and sequence.

C. When you install the crank pulley, use some medium strength Loc-tite on the bolt to ensure it won't come off. Just get it as tight as you can. The engine will move but that is fine. The Loc-tite will keep it from coming back out.

Torque Values & Part Numbers:
Torque Specs
Idler pulleys: 35 ft-lbs

Tension pulley: 18 ft-lbs

Part Numbers for pulleys:

Timing Belt Tensioner

Pulley (later model, 99.5+)

Pulley (Upper Timing Belt Pulley Pre 99.5)

Pulley (Lower Timing Belt Pulley Pre 99.5)

Timing Belt

Crank Gear (single piece)

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2 Answers

Water pump bearing froze. Belt melted on road to

GoeffreyH is not correct. On this engine the water pump is run by a small, single, separate belt which cannot be adjusted by the alternator because it (and the water pump itself) are on the opposite end of the engine from the crank pulley and other accessories, such as alternator, A/C, etc. which are driven by the main serpentine belt. The water pump is driven by a pulley on the end of one camshaft. Your confusion stems from the change from the old system, in which a longer belt was used with a tensioner in the traditional fashion, and the new system on 2004 vans where the tensioner was eliminated and a 'stretch fit' belt was used. Stretch fit belts have a springy component (like a rubber band) and keep their own tension this way by being stretched a bit to fit over the pulleys then holding snug against them. The problem is that some parts books erroneously call for the old belt for vans which need the new one. So the first belt your mechanic got was longer (to fit over the extra tensioner pulley) and static (not stretchy). On these newer vans, you can still see the mounting boss where the tensioner would have gone, it's part of the castings so it's still there. That's why it looks like there's a place for a tensioner but like none was ever there. Both your observations are correct. The only thing you need to do now is make sure your new belt is the right one, that it's a stretch fit belt, so it maintains tension (otherwise the water pump pulley will eventually start to slip and spin too slowly and the van will overheat) and also that it's not TOO tight, which will put you out of another water pump. The correct belt, if it's from NAPA, would be 030250SF.

Jul 11, 2010 | 2004 Mazda MPV

1 Answer

what all needs to be removed to change the serpentine belt on 2002 Eclipse 2.4

You should not have to "remove" anything. Either loosen the alternator, or if installed, use the tensioner to loosin the belt, and put the new one on.
It's a bit easier using the alternator (if easily accessible) cause the tensioner you have to hold up (or down) while pulling the belt off - and gettin' it back on is a bit more difficult this way.
Let me know if you need futher assistance.
Guru, Premium Expert @ Fixya.com

Jun 18, 2010 | 2002 Mitsubishi Eclipse

1 Answer

My 91 honda accord is squeaking when i start it then it goes away

That type of squeak is usually caused by a loose or slipping belt. You should check or have someone check the condition and tension on the belts and tighten them as needed. I recently put a new belt on my daughter's honda, and a couple weeks later had to re tighten it, as it stretched a bit after installation. A little more tension on it, and it is good to go now!

Jan 17, 2010 | 1995 Honda Passport

1 Answer

fan belt squeels on the alternator


Most likely your alternator belt is a little loose. My daughter's car did that right after I changed the belt, The new belt stretched a bit, and a couple weeks later, it was sqealing. I tightened the tensioner up a bit, and it stopped. I has now been quiet for months!

Nov 02, 2009 | 2001 Honda Accord

5 Answers

79 firebird belt replaced that wraps around the compressor/clutch for a/c. A/c blows cold, first belt was too big, brand new second belt perfect size, and checked, but when driving, belt starts squeeling. what happened? same sound as first belt. too loose? too tight? could it have stretched?

Your new belt wil have stretched a bit, and you should have enough adjustment to stop the squeek. I'm not 100% sure if there are tensioners on the belt, if so they may reqire greasing or to check out, spray the tensioners with releasing oil' leave for an hour and see if they have moved. They are plastic bushes that your belt would have gone round.

To quieten a belt that squeeks, get some talcum powder, and when the engine is running spray it over the groove in the belt, it may be that's all it needs beccause there is a small bit of contamination on the belt, this wil soak uo any gunk and make your car quiet again. Let me know, regards, dave

Aug 11, 2009 | 1979 Pontiac Firebird

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