Tip & How-To about Ford ZX2
7. Now we install the new belt. This can be a bit difficult because the new belt is not stretched at all and will prove difficult. You may be tempted to try prying it on with a pry bar (or screwdriver), please resist the urge to do that. After you cuss a lot and the belt slides on make sure it sits just inside the gears the entire length of the belt. Now you can apply tension. Slide the tab into the back plate. Tighten the tensioner 10 mm bolt up just a enough to keep the allen key from falling down under its' own weight. Behind the tensioner is a back plate with a notch cut into it. You can see there is a line it is supposed to point to. Make sure it is pointing to it when you start to put tension on the belt by rotating the allen slot counter-clockwise. Now you need to hold that allen slot with the allen wrench in a 3 o'clock position while you tighten the tension bolt. It is a very small space to work in and it will make you mad, but it has to be done. Get the bolt good and snug, 18 ft-lbs. Don't over tighten it, it might break off. After you get this done you need to check the belt deflection. Just push down in the center of the belt (between the cam gears) and see if it travels downward more then a 1/4 inch. If not, then the tension is set fine. If it won't let you move it at all, then the tension is too much and may cause the belt to break.
7a. Now that the belt is installed, you have to tighten up the cams gears. Starting with the exhaust cam gear, use a wrech to hold the cam still (leave the lock tool in, but hold the cam in place so you don't break the slots out) and tighten the bolt up to 30 ft-lbs. Now, hold the intake cam still and tighten the bolt up to 50 ft-lbs. Remove the lock tool and tighten the exhaust cam bolt up to 80 ft-lbs. Install the oil plug into the VCT hub and tighten it up to about 15-20 ft-lbs. All of this sets the cam gears to neutral and prevents the belt from bunching up in the center during VCT operation.
8. Now you can put it back together. If you haven't already done so, remove the cam locking tool. Rotate the crank with the crank bolt one full turn to make sure the belt isn't going to bind on anything. If all is well then you put everything together the way it was removed with the following notes:
A. Re-connect your coil plug if you removed it, some people forget then get scared when the car doesn't start.
B. When you install the valve cover, you need to wipe the head mating surface down to make sure it is clean. Here is the torque pattern and sequence.
C. When you install the crank pulley, use some medium strength Loc-tite on the bolt to ensure it won't come off. Just get it as tight as you can. The engine will move but that is fine. The Loc-tite will keep it from coming back out.
Torque Values & Part Numbers:
Idler pulleys: 35 ft-lbs
Tension pulley: 18 ft-lbs
Part Numbers for pulleys:
Timing Belt Tensioner
Pulley (later model, 99.5+)
Pulley (Upper Timing Belt Pulley Pre 99.5)
Pulley (Lower Timing Belt Pulley Pre 99.5)
Crank Gear (single piece)
Posted by Brad Kirby on
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